The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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scottevest said:
Based upon what you have seen in the videos, do you think I have safety/structural issues that I need to be concerned about still even after addressing the area near the strut on the driver's side? In other words, are the rocker panels so bad that you think I would have issues driving in a spirited manner around curves, etc. Good to know that using the jack is not advisable.
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Hard to say w/o it all cut out.

BTW, I think w/those 73 brackets, w/the customization to get those installed, you can probably suck it in as far as you want to get it to be 68-72 specs.

If not, there are these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E9-3...032460?hash=item1ca158c04c:g:DZIAAOSw8A1agyfJ
 
as far as i have seen , jack points in the rear have a inner reinforcement U profile which is ,on my car, completely rust away.. so i wouldn't thrust it.
Scott , weld a roll cage into your car .... that will keep it going ! :D:D:D
 
I jacked my lightweight parts car from the jack points and bent the rocker. If settled a good 2”. Keep in mind this is with a car that has no gas, no interior, no glass, no engine, and no nose. A shell with an empty gas tank and an axle.

I had no choice on using the jack point. Good luck removing your rear subframe without using the factory jacking points. :) There is no “frame rail” that far back to jack from. The rocker is all you have to work with....
 
Markos said:
I had no choice on using the jack point. Good luck removing your rear subframe without using the factory jacking points. :) There is no “frame rail” that far back to jack from. The rocker is all you have to work with....
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I would make a cradle of wood that would spread the load across a larger part of the rocker in that case. And lift from multiple points.
But, yours is a parts car so no real damage done, no one was going to salvage those rockers for use in another car.

Both my jack points have been pushed up a bit by some previous owner, so I know I have to open up the rockers to fix what's there. And I'll add some additional reinforcement while I'm there.

Scott, I had a '67 VW convertible Beetle that had its Karmann added rocker reinforcement rusted through and I could stand on the rear bumper and rapidly shift my weight from one foot to the other and actually see the body twist. Of course you can't do much spirited driving with a 54hp engine, but your coupe has more power and torque. It has a solid roof and much more structure, but considering people have suffered cracks and failure of their differential mount you can't say that this Karmann built body was overbuilt even before corrosion weakens it.
Drive it without extensive rust repair? Ok, I'm down with that. Doing a lot of 'spirited driving'? Hmm, I'd say not recommended.

Your money, your behind. You choose.
 
Markos, the area with the 2 bolts from the tie rods rear frame are strong... look inside. Ofcourse jacking pad surface needs to be large enough to catch the vertical plates inside.... and in the right angle.

I will post pics when doing so , soon on the blue car.... :)
 
Belgiumbarry said:
Markos, the area with the 2 bolts from the tie rods rear frame are strong... look inside. Ofcourse jacking pad surface needs to be large enough to catch the vertical plates inside.... and in the right angle.

I will post pics when doing so , soon on the blue car.... :)
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I'm a visual learner Barry so I'll definitely need to see a pic. I'm not sure what tie rods you are referring to. I'm referring to the rear of the car. If you are talking about the support bracket with the two bolts that ties the chassis to the rear subframe mounting point, that won't work either. You need to remove that whole plate to get the subframe off. If you are just jacking up the car that's another story. My point was that sometimes one needs to use the jacking points.

mulberryworks said:
I would make a cradle of wood that would spread the load across a larger part of the rocker in that case. And lift from multiple points.
But, yours is a parts car so no real damage done, no one was going to salvage those rockers for use in another car.
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I was actually thinking the same thing when going through this process, thinking about my project car.
 
No Markos, if you unscrew those 2 bolts and just loosen a bit the main bolt , you can turn the bracket out of the way .
Then you have free space for a serious safe jack system to remove the rear subframe.
 
Belgiumbarry said:
No Markos, if you unscrew those 2 bolts and just loosen a bit the main bolt , you can turn the bracket out of the way .
Then you have free space for a serious safe jack system to remove the rear subframe.
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That area isn’t that strong on a compromised car. I tried and it was worse than the jacking point.

Anyway, sorry to deviate from the paint thread...
 
adawil2002 said:
Hoping for an update video or some pictures later today.
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You and me both waiting for an update. I had a buddy drop by earlier this week and it appears that no progress has been made. I believe they are waiting for the rocker parts from W and and which were just ordered earlier this week. Until they have those parts I don’t think they can do terribly much. Hopefully they will arrive next week and progress can come out. I have not received any updates on additional cost which makes me a little nervous but I am relying on a handshake and a rough estimate of cost not including the additional work to the rear axle area identified and cleaning up the engine area. Stay tuned


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Just got this email... thoughts?

Come on down we’ve got some interesting finds to show you
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That's structural and needs to be fixed. I'd ask for an invoice for work performed to date, then go from there.

Not an easy pill to swallow, yet several of us have been there and are here to offer support.
 
I just talked to Benny. I was panicked because the images look like crap, but he said, "You lucked out. Most of the rust is on the outside and structurally it is pretty sound, better than we thought. Come on down and take a look. We are still looking at $1500-2000 for the rust repair, plus the axel stuff shown here, but it won't be that bad. Looking too at what it will take to clean/up paint the engine compartment too, without removing the engine."

Any specific questions you think I should ask when I go down there?

Scott
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Remove your wiper linkage and motor when you paint the bay. Overspray on these parts are the leading indicator for a quick and dirty paint job. We see it all the time. Figure an hour to remove and reinstall. Don’t lose the parts!

Also - You can get the sound deadening kit for the fender tops from cs werke in Germany. Order it now and have them scrape off all of the old stuff. I think in your first video he mentioned leaving that alone. If you have any small holes they can drill out the rust and weld them shut. Paint the bay, paint the deadening material (I would add some flex agent to it), reinstall
 
Ya, when I first saw that pic, I thought it looked like surface rust too on that diff mount point. Good news for sure.

Still curious how the rest of the rockers look if the inner rocker needs replacing (of course, the outer will).

As far as engine compartment, remove as much as you can and take notes of where stuff goes. Remove radiator, firewall insulation (get new one from cs-werk.de), battery, etc. As much as you can really w/o the engine pull.

You're going about it all good. However, I'm wondering if the glass should be pulled and check the window channels. I suspect the front will need some attention if that glove box area has some rust.
 
Here's today's update, in 2 parts. Things seem to be going very well.

Part 1:
Part 2: https://youtu.be/Nfuero2rZ8M
If anyone knows the part number and source for the 4 rubber pieces shown in the 2d video along with the proper soundproof material used in engine compartment, please let me know.

We found part numbers for the B Post Seals, A51716754295, AND THE OUTER SUPPORTS A33333728100.

How am I doing?
 
If you can’t tell one of your rear brakes isn’t working it probably means you are driving in a respectful and courteous manner. It’s also because E9’s are a bit nose heavy to begin with. Do you have an LSD in your car? That also affects how much you might notice a rear lateral brake imbalance.

Consider replacing all your brake flex lines if they are more than 10 years old. Have him check your under-body fuel lines for corrosion too.
 
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