• Tapatalk is being removed immediately. There are security issues and there is no justification for having it anymore. I apolgize to those die-hard Tapatalk users but you'll need to start using the forums mobile version instead.

The Raven e9 project

Bmachine

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $
Site Donor $$
Messages
2,410
Reaction score
721
Location
Northern California coast
This is what I am on about regarding moving the drains to the rear fender wells.
Right. But as Markos mentioned that is the c pillar hose. I’ve done the same re-routing although I am not sure this actually is going to make much difference since there can’t be very much water entering through the emblem.
 

autokunst

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
2,459
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Okay all. I've just taken a look at my car and found that the rear sunroof hoses drain out the trunk floor just behind the rear wheel well, and the C pillar hoses drain down to the back corner area of the rockers - precisely as discuss here and illustrated in @Markos photo. So, no surprises other than my now crystal clear understanding. Thank you!

But let me ask this: What is the re-routing discussed, and what is the benefit? Let me clarify. Is the recommendation to re-route the C-pillar hose to the wheel well? I can see this as a benefit rather than it spilling into the rocker. I agree that there would likely not be much water here. But perhaps a pressure differential while driving in the rain (gasp), and I could see this sucking in water like a straw. So a better drainage point would be beneficial. OR, are we talking about re-routing the sunroof hose? I can't see why the trunk floor isn't a good place for this as it is currently.

Thank you for this in-depth topic. I am technically "not there yet", but through this chat I've learned more about my car and have knowledge on how to improve it.
 

eriknetherlands

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
825
Reaction score
354
Location
Netherlands, Eindhoven area
My car did not have a sunroof, so no tube. However the hole in the trunk was pre- punched, with like a circle shaped opening , and it was rusted to near non-existance. It is the location that makes it not so smart to have an opening there; is in direct spray area of the rear wheel. Not smart to have an opening there.
I do remember an image residing somewhere on this forum, where a member soldered copper pipe to the sunroof drain, bent it forward, and connected it to the c-pillar roundel tube, and fed the merged pipe out the rocker bottom.


@jefflit, can you measure the height of the engine to the top of your carbs ? (Do I see you have zeniths?)

I too have to remove the engine, and I have one of the scissor type lifts to do the work, however i can only lift the car about 4 feet off the ground, which i think will be a tight fit.
 
Last edited:

autokunst

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
2,459
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Milwaukee, WI
My car did not have a sunroof, so no tube. However the hole in the trunk was pre- punched, with like a circle shaped opening , and it was rusted to near non-existance. It is the location that makes it not so smart to have an opening there; is in direct spray area of the rear wheel. Not smart to have an opening there.
I do remember an image residing somewhere on this forum, where a member soldered copper pipe to the sunroof drain, bent it forward, and connected it to the c-pillar roundel tube, and fed the merged pipe out the rocker bottom.


@jefflit, can you measure the height of the engine to the top of your carbs ? (Do I see you have zeniths?)

I too have to remove the engine, and I have one of the scissor type lifts to do the work, however i can only lift the car about 4 feet off the ground, which i think will be a tight fit.
Maybe I can help with the engine height dims? I just measured mine (with triple webers). But there seems to be quite a bit of clearance. A few disclaimers:
- My car is ridiculously low - lower springs on steroids
- I have several layers of cardboard under the car/engine - and that is what I am measuring to.\

That said, in the photos you can see that the front of the engine (distributor) is about 28.5" above the cardboard. I'd add another 1.5" to compensate for the cardboard and that puts the top of the front about 30" off the floor on my car. Maybe 32" or so for a normal lowered ride height.
20200630-ht front of engine.jpg


The rear is closer to 27.5" plus the cardboard and it is about 29" tall.
20200630-ht rear of engine.jpg



The lowest part of my subframe assembly is about 3" above the cardboard, so from the floor the subframe is maybe about 4.5" off the floor. Which suggests that the top of my engine to the lowest part of the subframe might be about 25" or 26". Am I doing the math right? If I supported the subframe assembly right where it is at, I think I'd have to lift the car up a bit more than 2 feet, maybe 2.5 feet or so and I should be able to roll/slide the engine out the front under the valence. Maybe a bit more with Zenith carbs, but not more than 3 feet I would think. Does this help?
 

Luis A.

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
1,325
Reaction score
135
Location
Wisconsin
Erik, check out post #5 here: Engine pull

I only needed 32" and that was with my engine several inches off the floor placed on an ATV jack.
 

autokunst

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
2,459
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Erik, check out post #5 here: Engine pull

I only needed 32" and that was with my engine several inches off the floor placed on an ATV jack.
Luis, I hand't seen your thread previously (or I did but forgot the details). This categorizes the tribulations I've been going through perfectly. And surprisingly, it has made my plan no easier to determine. At this point I will just keep taking things apart and eventually either the motor will drop out the bottom or pop out the top.
 

jefflit

Active Member
Site Donor $
Messages
102
Reaction score
124
Location
Los Angeles, CA
@eriknetherlands It looks like you got the info you needed on height. I don't have the engine here anymore so can't measure. I gave away the old motor and sold the new one. But 32" sounds about right.
 

autokunst

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
2,459
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Milwaukee, WI
I snuck out to the garage and pulled the brake master cylinder and brake booster. I was surprised at how reasonable the condition was on both parts... (but wait, there's more) The master cylinder is an ATE 23mm unit which I believe is original and correct. And I am pretty sure I have a rebuild kit for it already - which is good because the booster was full of brake fluid! Well, not full, but full-ish. You'd think someone would have noticed that they had to keep adding fluid... In addition to the master cylinder, a rebuild is in store for either the original booster, or possibly a tii booster that I picked up a while back for more room. I like options.
 

autokunst

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
2,459
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Early MC is 23.8, later with bigger booster is 22.2.
Ah, I see. I was being a simpleton and assuming that the casting mark that read "23" on the cast iron body was the size - ha ha. I just pulled it apart and the metal portion of the piston assembly measures 23.64mm/23.65mm. I assume that means this is an early 23.8mm model. I need to find that rebuild kit and make sure a) I actually have it, and b) it is the correct size. EDIT: after replacing the battery in the digital caliper (not that it should change the reading) I took the measurement again more carefully and it was reading in the 23.70 to 23.74. Further confirming the 23.8mm form factor.
 
Last edited:

autokunst

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
2,459
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Milwaukee, WI
I searched my parts and records, and it turns out I do not have a rebuild kit. But the bore on my MC body seems perfectly smooth and "rebuildable". I searched the forum and the interweb and can't seem to find a source to buy a rebuild kit. I did find one thread on Bimmerforum where someone had found new Ate rebuild kits just a few months ago. But n o source was listed. I wrote Ate and will see if they reply with any help.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
1,112
Reaction score
82
Location
Seattle
@eriknetherlands Here is the photo of the C pillar drain connected with copper pipe to the existing rear sunroof drain. I just cut the sun roof drain to add the copper Tee. You can see the old tube going down the front of the wheel well into the sill cavity. Running it out into the wheel well works nicely, if you can install a water tight fitting.

F8EAB4EF-88FE-4C6F-8994-D7DBC10B6565.jpeg
 

autokunst

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
2,459
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Okay, I feel like progress is being made. I wanted to get a push in before the holiday weekend as I might not be able to spend as much time in the garage as I'd like.

Nothing to see here
20200702-block and head.jpg

Whether I go out the top or out the bottom, there's not much left to fit through either hole. I am feeling really good about this. Starting to really get to know the car.

But this is what I found from the shop that "threw" the DCOEs on. Quite a mismatch between the gasket and the head. I'd like to know what the story is behind that new hex head bolt under the number 6 intake port.
20200702-unmatched gaskets.jpg


And as a side project, I cleaned up some tools I've had for an age. I picked these up used back in the 80's when I worked at the BMW dealership. And I have to say, they have been some of the best tools in my toolbox. The adjustable wrench is so tight and precise, and the adjustable pliers adjusts so easily and really grips. I treated them to a nice bath and hope to get another 20 years out of them at least.
20200702-bahco tools.jpg
 
Top