I have a hard time ignoring the great advice offered on this forum. And it speaks volumes when the original motors are offered free (you take them, I don't want them - ha ha). I'll keep my eyes out for two pairs of motors, add it to my list...
The Raven e9 project
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Just had Athena's rear tuna can motors replaced with E28 rear motors. VSR did the conversion which was more involved than my skill level. My CSi was built in 1972 so it was not direct screw in then 3 wires to 2 and good to go. Here's the post of the passenger window speed now.
e9coupe.com
Andrew Wilson's '73 CSi
Andrew, here's a couple of pics of what I think the original looks like (try to ignore the dirt)
e9coupe.com
I took the rest of the door hardware and glass off the right side tonight. Both yesterday and tonight, I walked away absolutely filthy with this terrible, tenacious grease. It was on my hands, my tools, everywhere. And it does not like to come off with any cleaners I have handy. Tonight I figured out what it is. It is the gook that previous folks used to lube the windows. A hybrid of black (dirty) grease and also an old yellowed lithium? grease. It is no wonder the windows were slow and spotty!!! Although I must say, the passenger side front window came down pretty dang quick - it scared me. I still have all my fingers. 
More deconstruction today. Although I went in with a fair amount of research and expectations, I can say with confidence that removing the dash was my LEAST FAVORITE task thus far. The good news is the top dash pad and the gauge cluster hood are in perfect condition. There is a small crack on the front rail, but not bad. The bad news is that all of the wood is perished. I'm not talking just the veneer - the whole shebang. I may have enough geometry to replicate some of the parts. We'll see. It is low on my list right now as I am trying to get the chassis stripped for dipping. I'm thinking metal first, then wood.
Too bad about the wood Stephen, but with the age of these cars now, I am sure it is very common. You will sort it out! And a Coupe with new wood, really stands out, in my opinion. Congrats on the use of the term "shebang", has fallen into disuse as far as I can tell. Many opt for "the whole 9 yards" or the vanishing "kit and caboodle", or "whole ball of wax", "whole shooting match", or even "whole enchilada". So, thanks for keeping an almost forgotten term, alive!
I do like kit and caboodle!
I pulled the gauges, carefully labeling all of the wiring that feeds them.
Here are the backs of the gauges on the bench, along with a full compliment of original 2W dash bulbs. 4W is the new normal (preferred replacement), I believe.
It appears that are power taps on the back of the multi-function gauge. In this case, there was an aftermarket fan/temperature sensor relay device wired up to it. Is anything actually supposed to be connected to these ports?
Finally, I do have a spare gauge panel to replace my perished one. As you can see, this came from a Euro (non-US/NA) car. My question is about the light at the top middle. Is this a Euro only thing? Aftermarket?
Here are the backs of the gauges on the bench, along with a full compliment of original 2W dash bulbs. 4W is the new normal (preferred replacement), I believe.
It appears that are power taps on the back of the multi-function gauge. In this case, there was an aftermarket fan/temperature sensor relay device wired up to it. Is anything actually supposed to be connected to these ports?
Finally, I do have a spare gauge panel to replace my perished one. As you can see, this came from a Euro (non-US/NA) car. My question is about the light at the top middle. Is this a Euro only thing? Aftermarket?
Is that a light at the top center between the gauges? Could be a fog light telltale.
On Athena there is a fog telltale light to the left of the dash, wired for the front fog lights.
On Athena there is a fog telltale light to the left of the dash, wired for the front fog lights.
Those are grounds, nothing hooks up there. The light was discussed here years ago for euro coupes but I can’t remember what is does. Looks like someone added a ground wire to your gauge, it has blue crimp covers.
There was a LOT of non-original wiring under the dash. Primarily the temperature control unit aforementioned, and an alarm system. The alarm brain had a lot of wires connected to it, and they were all too long so they were wrapped up into a big nest of wires under there. They then stretched to all corners of the dash including the ignition (assuming a lock-out), a motion switch, the headlight switch (assuming it flashes the lights), the horn wiring, and probably a few locations I've already forgotten about. I hate alarms!
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
I took the rest of the door hardware and glass off the right side tonight. Both yesterday and tonight, I walked away absolutely filthy with this terrible, tenacious grease. It was on my hands, my tools, everywhere. And it does not like to come off with any cleaners I have handy. Tonight I figured out what it is. It is the gook that previous folks used to lube the windows. A hybrid of black (dirty) grease and also an old yellowed lithium? grease. It is no wonder the windows were slow and spotty!!! Although I must say, the passenger side front window came down pretty dang quick - it scared me. I still have all my fingers.
I’m just doing my window regs at the mow....
I have taken them to bits and gone through the lot...
The small gearbox - I took the covers off to clean and inspect and re grease - one of the nylon gears was cracked - I had a spare gear box (they are not interchangeable as they have lugs for side specific)
So, had to press it out and put into the right housing… so its well worth the inspection and not assuming they are ok – as it’s a pain sorting out when in the car
Anyhow – I have taken all the old grease out and everything now is greased up with PTFE grease – not the dry stuff out of a spray - but in a tub...
All cogs and gears are done with it - and runs smooth and well
Also, it’s worth hot wiring and running the regs out of the car as the motors do need centring/ aligning up for smooth operation –
On the bench they do go very fast – but I guess with the weight of the windows will slow it down….
Oh – I put the new spring/stops on – but they are to big and had to bend the mounting slightly to stop it snagging – has anyone else had this problem??
Kenneth Olsen
New Member
Re: stroking the motor...Markos has this right. I recently had my 3.0 motor (sn 2250492-matches body - assembled Feb 20 1973) rebuilt after 245000 miles We found a 3.2 crank, rods and pistons, bored the cylinders out +.25. These Mahle pistons result in a 8.8 CR, with the additional stroke of 6mm. The attached photo shows the top of pistons and relevant information. For rod clearance, we had to machine 3/8" x 45 degree cut in cylinder 3 and 4, we took very little at 1 and 6. The goal was to have .60 clearance between the rod and block. The result (dynamometer) is max torque from 2500 to 4000 rpm of 170 (rear wheel) so maybe 200-210 at the crank and 142 hp (rear wheel) so maybe 170 at the crank (I'm assuming an 18% loss, pick your own number). So the outcome is, numbers matching, real increase in flexibility as the torque comes on at 1800 rpm and is nearly a flat curve all the way to 4500. I'm running a pair of 38/38 Webers, everything else is stock. Ron Agar and the boys at NW European deserve all the credit, I'm just reporting.Very cool! I’m excited to see the process. I like to drive mine despite the ability to see the ground when I drive.
Take some digital calipers to the Stahl primaries to see what diameter they are.
As far as the engine goes, I don’t think you have much wiggle room in the 3.0 block for oversized pistons. I guess my first question would be if the larger bore CSL engine started with the same 3.0 block. The experts will know.
The same thing goes for stroking the motor. As far as I know the 3.0 block does not have the releifs cast into the block to clear longer throw rods. I believe that started with the M30B32, or the block used for the 3.3LI (there is some overlap there I think). Just thinking out loud, others may chime in with details.
A good option IMO is to swap the motor but keep the short block. If your car will never be stock again as far as chassis as motor mods go, you can probably pitch the original block. I believe that at some point in the next 20 years or so, original motors will become a thing again - much like europe...
Nice improvement in torque. Did you consider piano top pistons which are 9.0:1 or was torque the goal?
Just pulled the heater box - we're getting there. My goal was to have the interior pulled by last Sunday night so I could move out to the engine bay this week. I am tracking a week behind, but have to remind myself that I don't really have a schedule - as long as I am having fun.
When pulling the dash, I found four coins. The penny was on top of the dash and you can see that it is from 1992. But the three dimes were actually below the dash. With years of 1969, 1973, and 1974, I am romanticizing that these dimes slipped under the dash "in period" and have been with the car for four decades. I think I'll keep them with the car as good luck. Maybe one day 30 cents will save the day.
When pulling the dash, I found four coins. The penny was on top of the dash and you can see that it is from 1992. But the three dimes were actually below the dash. With years of 1969, 1973, and 1974, I am romanticizing that these dimes slipped under the dash "in period" and have been with the car for four decades. I think I'll keep them with the car as good luck. Maybe one day 30 cents will save the day.
Good luck Stephen, with that 'deflation' hope. Over my 'automotive usage lifetime', it's been a lot of inflation and no deflation.
When I was a college student, I could buy about 1.3 gallons of gas with 31 cents. Now I pay about $3.50 for that 1.3 gallons and that's pretty cheap compared to several years ago. However, my summer salary as a cement finisher during college years was $1.50 per hour, while the entry jobs were $1.00 per hour. MINIMUM wage many places is now $15.00 for a non-skilled job. So, gasoline is now cheaper than it was when I was a college student.
I also 'think I recall that McDonald's burger was 19 cents in that era, and there was a local restaurant that had something they called a 'Whopper' (not BK), which was 1 lb of meat plus toppings for $1.00. We students had the appetite, but rarely the $1.00!!
I just don't think the 31 cents is going to save very many days for you in 15 years - ha. (Unless you invest it in Tesla stock, which seems to only go north in 2020).
Gary
When I was a college student, I could buy about 1.3 gallons of gas with 31 cents. Now I pay about $3.50 for that 1.3 gallons and that's pretty cheap compared to several years ago. However, my summer salary as a cement finisher during college years was $1.50 per hour, while the entry jobs were $1.00 per hour. MINIMUM wage many places is now $15.00 for a non-skilled job. So, gasoline is now cheaper than it was when I was a college student.
I also 'think I recall that McDonald's burger was 19 cents in that era, and there was a local restaurant that had something they called a 'Whopper' (not BK), which was 1 lb of meat plus toppings for $1.00. We students had the appetite, but rarely the $1.00!!
I just don't think the 31 cents is going to save very many days for you in 15 years - ha. (Unless you invest it in Tesla stock, which seems to only go north in 2020).
Gary
Elon is selling his Teslas' at six times the profit margin of Detroit and everyone else. How long will naive buyers pay that kind of money? And where are the savings in gas prices versus electric when buyers have paid such a high premium?
Steve,
Yep - and many summaries of the 'greenness' of electrics vs current IC engine cars is that over the lifetime there is little if any advantage for the electric. I looked in my garage, but can't find anything but IC's.
Yep - and many summaries of the 'greenness' of electrics vs current IC engine cars is that over the lifetime there is little if any advantage for the electric. I looked in my garage, but can't find anything but IC's.
We could have a whole other thread on Tesla... And at the risk of hijacking this one I'll just say that for a guy that has a sizable IC/carbon footprint I find our Model 3 the most capable and refined vehicle in that $40k range. This, even without regards to it being electric. The 'fuel' cost per mile is ~25% of that of a comparable vehicle.
That is one “advantage” of modern cars. They are so complicated that nobody dares to mess with the wiring anymore.
On these older cars it was way too easy for Joe DoItYourSelfer to go to town on them with a box of Radio Shack assorted wires and connectors and a cheap alarm or stereo.