Dibs. Sending you a PM.
The Raven e9 project
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After way too much time doing anything but working on the coupe, I revisited the Raven project tonight. I'm inspired. But I am a little hung up on a detail.
Not long ago, Chris @Ohmess was kind enough to send me the plastic cover for the floor wiring access port. Honestly, I was thinking of just leaving this solid as I do not have an injected car so I will likely not have wiring here. But since I have the cover, and I like the idea of another inspection point for the frame rail, I decided to cut the opening.
But when I cut the opening that matched @eriknetherlands photo and also my rusty original opening, the plug will not lay down. This is Erik's photo, and I don't see the round protrusion:
Mine has a little round protrusion that doesn't have a home. What am I missing? Should there me a hole in the floor tab? I'd appreciate any insight into this detail dilemma.
Not long ago, Chris @Ohmess was kind enough to send me the plastic cover for the floor wiring access port. Honestly, I was thinking of just leaving this solid as I do not have an injected car so I will likely not have wiring here. But since I have the cover, and I like the idea of another inspection point for the frame rail, I decided to cut the opening.
But when I cut the opening that matched @eriknetherlands photo and also my rusty original opening, the plug will not lay down. This is Erik's photo, and I don't see the round protrusion:
Mine has a little round protrusion that doesn't have a home. What am I missing? Should there me a hole in the floor tab? I'd appreciate any insight into this detail dilemma.
I'd say 3 options:
1- get another plastic part without the pin (as your rusted original floor section shows no hole, you must have had a plug without the round pin, like mine seems to be)
2.- chop the pin off and accept the modified condition of your plastic cover. Select your favorite OCD suppressing pills to overcome any negative feelings...
3. - for this cover to be used (unmodified), yes, there apparently should be a hole in the floor. The car that it came from undoubtedly had that hole (or an opening of same function)
1- get another plastic part without the pin (as your rusted original floor section shows no hole, you must have had a plug without the round pin, like mine seems to be)
2.- chop the pin off and accept the modified condition of your plastic cover. Select your favorite OCD suppressing pills to overcome any negative feelings...
3. - for this cover to be used (unmodified), yes, there apparently should be a hole in the floor. The car that it came from undoubtedly had that hole (or an opening of same function)
I am leaning towards drilling a hole. With this particular cover, it would allow it to engage positively. But I am hoping someone else has this on a coupe (although I will not go to the mat for this detail).
I checked some old pics of my floor with the cover off - no hole. I don’t have any pics of the underside of the the cover though
I thought these were only on a CSi.
My assumption is that they were only "used" on a CSi (for wiring), however my CS original floor had the hole and therefore had to be covered one way or another. Since I have this wonderful cover from Chris Ohmes, I feel I need to use it in an appropriate, if not spectacular, fashion.
My 72 CS has a similar cover installed. I actually used it to run wiring for the yaw sensors for my Schroth harnesses, which are mounted in the vertical panels at the front of the rear seats.
Not sure why the cover I sent to Stephen has that small round tab - I think that came from the Maxfish race car project stash. His car was a CSi.
Not sure why the cover I sent to Stephen has that small round tab - I think that came from the Maxfish race car project stash. His car was a CSi.
My may '73 3.0 CSA also has the hole and the plastic cap.
Guess I’ve never looked!
Progress, though it is still slow. Most recently I have been repairing the flanges of the right side seat bridge. I feel I am close to welding this in and finishing up the right side floor. From there I can button up much of the right side sills and the A and B pillars. At least that is the current plan.
That is, in my mind, a kind of art.
Bending sheets like this..
Breiti
Bending sheets like this..
Breiti
Nicely made!
Kinda funny : when you execute it so well, only people reading this thread will know of the work that went into it.
Others will just see a normal seat bridge.
Kinda funny : when you execute it so well, only people reading this thread will know of the work that went into it.
Others will just see a normal seat bridge.
Very nicely done!
Great to see!
Chris, I may be wrong and you can say so. My 81 Euro 635 is Moronic 1.0. My understanding is it was a one year only.I am running an 002 ECU, but an 008 is a plug and play but with a fixed chip. Some of the 008s had a removable chip but after opening 8 of them I couldn't find one. However I found someone at a local phone/computer repair shop who said he could solder in a new Eprom socket so I am waiting to hear.. There was a fellow on one of the old 6series forums who was doing this but he has disappeared.The reason I want to do this is so I can get a chip made by Mark D'Sylva who is the guru. My car has a Pumped M90 in it, but cuts out at 6200 RPM. but still pulls and wants more
Hi Bert - not sure why you posted this here, or whether you are referring to me (seems more likely you are referring to Macha), but I'm interested in your Motronic board issue. As you may recall, I have a 79 635csi with an M90 in one of my project cars.
I was into analog video projectors in the 1990s, and regularly made board level repairs and modifications, so I might be able to handle the Eprom socket modification you are suggesting. Can you send me more info.
Be happy to send info. I will let you know in the next few days after I see if they can do it or not. Is your 79, Moronic or let?. Ljet is a whole different world/