restart
Well-Known Member
As my kid would say...sweet dizzy dude!
Peter, as you can see the correct color for that bracket is red
Peter, as you can see the correct color for that bracket is red
Will have to start somewhere
- Thread starter Peter Coomaraswamy
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Red bracket (1.8ohm) for red coil!
As my kid would say...sweet dizzy dude!
Peter, as you can see the correct color for that bracket is red
restart
Well-Known Member
Steve, Nice engine department, please trim wires a get a more German looking ground connector than that plebeian blue one...Save weight and gain points. :shock:
ps.exactly how many ladders to you have in your garage?-)
I'll get right on that blue spade...(actually I like that idea - at least hide the ugly blue)
Ladders...several, some for Mardi Gras parades to hold the kids when they were young, another left from an AWOL contractor, too many, reminds me of when I actually did house maintenance instead of coupe.
Ladders...several, some for Mardi Gras parades to hold the kids when they were young, another left from an AWOL contractor, too many, reminds me of when I actually did house maintenance instead of coupe.
restart
Well-Known Member
More pics-more questions; I did make some adjustments as suggested but for some reason the brake lines going to the master and especially along the fender apron look a little "messy" Does anyone have any pictures of how this spaghetti mess should look? Thanks.
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Doug Dolan
Well-Known Member
Peter, I'm wondering why you mounted the VIN plate and paint decal on the driver's side. Every coupe I've seen has both mounted in the same place on the passenger side.
Hi Doug, when I got the car the plate was secured by screws in that spot. The car was purchased in London- to US specs and there were no holes in the usual space on the other side. Additionally, the "insulation?" covering that area had no holes so I thought that maybe in Europe they put the tag on the other side. Tag and VIN are correct as I have complete history on the car from direct conversation with the owners' families so I don't think there was any monkeyshines going on there. Any comments welcome.
All coupes have VIN plate on passenger side.
OK, I will hunt around for the original holes on the passenger side and re-locate the tag. It did seem a bit strange to me and it was screwed on so I guess many years ago when the car was re-painted the shop mixed it up.
Thanks-
Thanks-
And a question
Chris, I have no doubt that you are correct but I looked pretty closely and so far can not find evidence of holes in the correct spot and the top insulation looks very original with the honeycomb pattern still visible throughout the area. I will see if I find other evidence when I have more time and as I prepare the under-fender areas for rust prevention and undercoating.
My question is; I purchased new firewall insulation (3 pieces) and the bottom 2 pieces came with a paper covered self-sticking film of some sort which is not ideal in that it does not hold very well in all areas- it could just be old, I don't know, but the top piece had no self adhesive at all- Is there a preferred type of glue or spooge of some sort to use and any particular technique that you folks could share with me. I am almost to the point where I've done everything twice back there so it should be ready to be permanently affixed.
Thanks-
Chris, I have no doubt that you are correct but I looked pretty closely and so far can not find evidence of holes in the correct spot and the top insulation looks very original with the honeycomb pattern still visible throughout the area. I will see if I find other evidence when I have more time and as I prepare the under-fender areas for rust prevention and undercoating.
My question is; I purchased new firewall insulation (3 pieces) and the bottom 2 pieces came with a paper covered self-sticking film of some sort which is not ideal in that it does not hold very well in all areas- it could just be old, I don't know, but the top piece had no self adhesive at all- Is there a preferred type of glue or spooge of some sort to use and any particular technique that you folks could share with me. I am almost to the point where I've done everything twice back there so it should be ready to be permanently affixed.
Thanks-
The upper firewall piece needs to be glued only at each end or it won't lay flat, doesn't hurt to use spray adhesive in the center either. The lowers have that crummy paper stuff, shoot some adhesive on that too, let it get tacky, spray some more and then apply.
e9 archeology
Thanks Chris-
Now on to my next "discovery". As I prepare to prep/paint behind the headlights I thought I would scrape away some of what I thought would be the factory finish, just to see how much prep work would be necessary. What I think I found was evidence that the entire radiator support was replaced! I know that the car was re-painted the original color due to the clear-coat cracking and I also heard that this was at BMW's expense (Not sure if that was true). Then in 1986 there was $11,176.10 worth of "refinishing" done by North State Auto Painting, LTD, "Specializing in Polyurethane Finishing" in Bedford Hills, NY. Problem is I can not read the invoice because it is faded so badly. I called the number on the invoice and they are still there "specializing" and the woman I spoke with says that they do have the records and she would call me when she finds them. In the interim maybe we can try to determine what went on with the pictures below. Additionally an astute member of the forum noticed that the A/C hole was oval which was not normal. I also noticed a neat little bead on the battery tray that I thought would be spot welded, so there was some significant work done. Any input would be appreciated as we try to unravel this mystery.
Thanks,
(and I will clean up the headlamp connectors)
Thanks Chris-
Now on to my next "discovery". As I prepare to prep/paint behind the headlights I thought I would scrape away some of what I thought would be the factory finish, just to see how much prep work would be necessary. What I think I found was evidence that the entire radiator support was replaced! I know that the car was re-painted the original color due to the clear-coat cracking and I also heard that this was at BMW's expense (Not sure if that was true). Then in 1986 there was $11,176.10 worth of "refinishing" done by North State Auto Painting, LTD, "Specializing in Polyurethane Finishing" in Bedford Hills, NY. Problem is I can not read the invoice because it is faded so badly. I called the number on the invoice and they are still there "specializing" and the woman I spoke with says that they do have the records and she would call me when she finds them. In the interim maybe we can try to determine what went on with the pictures below. Additionally an astute member of the forum noticed that the A/C hole was oval which was not normal. I also noticed a neat little bead on the battery tray that I thought would be spot welded, so there was some significant work done. Any input would be appreciated as we try to unravel this mystery.
Thanks,
(and I will clean up the headlamp connectors)
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restart
Well-Known Member
North state probly relocated the VIN plate? I would put it back where it belongs.
Did you ever do a Carfax or whatever you call those vin history things in the US?
Did you ever do a Carfax or whatever you call those vin history things in the US?
Spoke to North State this morning, they're working on getting information-should be interesting. I sent pictures of the car in the hope of jogging the owners memory. For now, stripping down the paint in the nose area getting ready to paint Polaris. I get to dress up like the guy from "Breaking Bad" and then shuffle around like the "Walking Dead" for a day (again)
(again)
Brass Radiator overflow tank Q
Opinions requested; on the 1970 Polaris coupe, which I am trying to keep pretty original, I was working on removing the black paint on the radiator overflow tank so I could repaint it. The paint came off pretty easily revealing a nice but tarnished tank. I thought it might look nice if it were shined up and clear-coated and left brass colored but I wanted to see what others thought. I believe I had seen that done once but not sure.
Thanks
Opinions requested; on the 1970 Polaris coupe, which I am trying to keep pretty original, I was working on removing the black paint on the radiator overflow tank so I could repaint it. The paint came off pretty easily revealing a nice but tarnished tank. I thought it might look nice if it were shined up and clear-coated and left brass colored but I wanted to see what others thought. I believe I had seen that done once but not sure.
Thanks
