Will have to start somewhere

Undercoat question

I have experimented with lots of undercoatings to try to get the job done correctly. The closest I have come to original is using the Eastwood rubberized undercoating. Probably 90% of the original undercoating is still well adhered to the underside but I would lightly spray over those parts to try to get a uniform surface. Since the original undercoating color is "putty", is it technically acceptable to use black. I used black on my other e9 but that car is far from original. Opinions are most welcome-
 

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Curious, have you removed any undercoating to see if the metal is corroded under it? I have done a couple of sections and am considering going all the way this winter, but might just chicken out of that very messy and tedious job. So far I have found carpet adhesive remover works the best to break it loose.
 
I've gotten great results with matching finish with 3M Rocker Schutz (NOT Body Schutz). Rocker Schutz is paintable and durable and goes on with almost identical texture to original.

As far as removing the original stuff: 4 evenings with a propane torch and putty knife and an afternoon of sandblasting and it will be as clean as a freshly changed baby's bottom!
 

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Nice

Drew, the "just-arrived e9" looks clean. I was not going to remove much of the original undercoating because my limited experience was that unless it is peeling off it is adequately protecting very clean steel. Where it is peeling I will scrape off prime, paint and then undercoat. I spent days scraping the first e9 project only to find no corrosion under the undercoating that was sticking. I do want it to be clean and have a fresh coat though. I will probably just continue scraping any flaky stuff, prime and paint then undercoat black. I want to spend most of my time getting the mechanicals and interior clean and correct. When I get done I may keep it or try to find a new owner. It's still very therapeutic for me. I am working with a shop down here now that wants to start working on european classics. They do allot of US cars but as we all know these things are "different". I have another Baur Targa, and some of you may remember that beat up old e9 with the M motor in it, both of which will need full tear-downs. I get to supervise the work and don't have to mess up my space and I hope it will be fun. I will definitely post some pictures as especially the e9 will be interesting!
 
That's the Bav...from several months ago..."just arrived" is pretty dusty still.

Sounds like your self-inflicted torture (I mean therapy) continues with more cars in need of "cleaning up". :)

Keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing those cars in person!!!

Also, keep a zodiac handy this weekend...I've heard you guys are supposed to get swamped.
 
upward and onward

Ready to launch the engine upward. I have some e9 enthusiasts who want to watch the "operation" so I'll bolt her up on Saturday. Hope the patient survives :)
 

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Peter, looks great. What is the theory behind the dual heat shields on the exhaust manifolds?
 
Not sure, came with the gasket set, I figured it could not hurt. Any problems with that set-up? Please shout if so as it's allot easier to change it now :)

Thanks-
 
Those are the newer style gaskets, individual ones still available. As long as it doesn't interfere with installing plugs you will be fine, just looks a bit different.
 
Agree, does look a bit odd, thinking it might keep the plug insulators cooler but I will also check to see if it interferes with plug changing. I appreciate the input.
 
UV and Ozone kills all

lawdog1 said:
The best weapon against mold, mold smell, and rat smell is ozone. We have used ozone on moldy/rat poop cars before with really good results. I have heard that certain materials can have adverse reactions with ozone, so do it at your own risk. We've used ozone in 100+ newer vehicles without a problem. Ozone quickly neutralizes any organic substances/smells, and reaches places that are difficult to clean (like in the hvac system).
Click to expand...

I have a device designed to reduce odor in shoes. It's a power supply that has a couple feet of wire with two caged bulbs that produce UV and ozone. It runs for a few minutes and then has to be reset, so it's a set and forget daily thing for your shoes. Anyway, I've used it to eradicate mold and fungus from old optical instruments and it would be perfect for under dash applications. Bought it on eBay, it wasn't very expensive.
 
By all means!

Please bring it on Saturday. I wish I was not so technically "challenged" because installing the engine would likely make a good Youtube video that some might find of interest :) It would probably fall into the category of "what not to do to your e9" or "how to make sure you do everything twice when you only have to do it once".
 
Lights, Camera, Action

Peter Coomaraswamy said:
Please bring it on Saturday. I wish I was not so technically "challenged" because installing the engine would likely make a good Youtube video that some might find of interest :) It would probably fall into the category of "what not to do to your e9" or "how to make sure you do everything twice when you only have to do it once".
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I've got a GoPro and some other cameras. We can do a time lapse and photos easily enough.
 
Note-and question

Well, we shot the video this morning and after what I am sure will be a large amount of editing we will have a youtube video that may not bore people to tears. Thanks to Ian, Nick & Bart for their help.

OK, so in my haste to appear like someone who actually knows what he's doing, I got the engine up and in fine but neglected to slide the steering shaft into the universal joint coupling so my question is: is there a way to pull the steering shaft away from the steering box so I can get it attached correctly or will I be dropping the engine down (again)? On the other e9's I've done I kind of match the shaft and coupling as I lift the engine up.

Thanks!
 
Not sure this is easier than dropping the front sub frame again (actually it probably is much easier than dropping the sub frame but with anything you have to pick the lesser of two evils) but you can somewhat easily pull the shaft away by getting at the 4 bolts that hold the steering column to the brake/clutch/acc pedal box frame. Just pull the bottom half of the steering column and associated trim panels and release those 4 bolts. You should then be able to slide the whole steering shaft away from the fire wall.
 
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