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That is what I use.

Just out of curiosity, is it welded on the other side of the flange and ground flat?

That would be me. I've been running a GM-based EFI on my 3.5 for the last five years or so and I have a tried and true combination of sensors that will work with just about any aftermarket ECU. Right now I have a one-off, hand-built custom harness (by me) that mimics the stock D-Jet stuff. At...

Carl's fixed camber plates work well with the springs he sells. They mount on top of the strut, but under the body, so you should have no issues with the strut bar. I'd also like to see the adjustable strut body. Sounds interesting.

Instant classic post! Good work.

His symptoms are EXACTLY the symptoms of a bad bias valve. You still get fluid to the bleeders and everything bleeds out like normal. It just leaks internally under pressure resulting in a spongy pedal. I chased my tail on this one for a couple of months before figuring this out. It's not...

It sounds like your brake bias valve is leaking. It is located at the back of the car up above the diff. Number 3 in this picture: It is not available new, but La Jolla Independent sells rebuilts on an exchange basis.

It would provide a huge improvement in driveabilty and fuel economy, if not outright torque and horsepower. The problem is that it is not a simple bolt-on affair and requires a custom harness and sensors. But yes, adapting to any modern injection system will yield noticeable performance gains...

Hello fellow coupsters. I need a lower dash since mine decided to finally crack on me. I'm looking for a replacement. It needs to be in excellent condition with no cracks. Let me know what you have and what you want for it. Thank you!

My comments from back in June: I drove by it on the lot on Sunday and stopped for a look. It's okay. Body is pretty straight with no visible rust. Paint is old and shows some hazing, scratches, dings, etc. Brightwork and rims are the same - lot's of patina. Weatherstripping is mostly dry and...

I've run it for years with no problems at all. Something else must be amiss.

Shoot, I'd love to meet up, but I'll be out of town. But definitely stop in and see Carl and Chris at La Jolla Independent when you're in San Diego!

I drove by it on the lot on Sunday and stopped for a look. It's okay. Body is pretty straight with no visible rust. Paint is old and shows some hazing, scratches, dings, etc. Brightwork and rims are the same - lot's of patina. Weatherstripping is mostly dry and cracked. Interior looked...

That's a nice solution!

Put the cross-bracket at a slight angle side-to-side so the nut captures the rail on both sides. Mine has been this way for years. It is plenty strong once the nuts are snugged down.

Flux capacitor.

Looks like the tabs on the tensioner piston where it meets the rail. Or the tab off the rail itself. Do I win?

Very nice looking work! Great design and execution.

You don't need the toothed crank pulley to have full spark control with a distributor. You only need it for distributorless systems. Don't make it harder than it needs to be. An L-Jet dizzy with the advance locked out will do the trick for 99% of the applications out there.

This is very easy to do if you want to run a single coil. Just use an L-Jet distributor with the VR sensor built in and lock out the advance. I just removed the weights and epoxyed the upper and lower shafts. That distributor will trigger a GM module or the MS. Works great for a single coil...