I have considered doing that, the car is a major budget project though so I haven't wanted to spend 1000 on having someone come out and dustless blast the whole thing. You bet I'd have that done in a heartbeat though, it would be very helpful. I plan on using a da sander for it as of now, it's just slow going.
1970 2800CSA rust monster restomod
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
seeing that car , a $1000 blasting job would be very well spend .... otherwise i'm afraid of a dead project...
now Rob, are you kidding ? building that car "copy" would need al least 50k...to be somewhere .. starting from a good E9 ! i understand dreams... but in the end the final invoice stays the same
Perfect candidate for a CSL Batmobile Group 2 or whatever project.
e.g.:
now Rob, are you kidding ? building that car "copy" would need al least 50k...to be somewhere .. starting from a good E9 ! i understand dreams... but in the end the final invoice stays the same
Well...don't need to be an exact copy. Just get the body kit. Forget about plexi windows, Scheel seats, etc.
I honestly think the most expensive part of this will be finding wheels to fill out those flares. I could be an awful human and get some "custom" diamond/bassett steelies up to the sizes needed for very cheap to get it rolling while I source parts for "real" wheels. Otherwise I'm looking at 1600ish for the group4 fenders/front bumper, another 1000 for the tail section of it, and a couple 4x8 18g sheets of metal and a LOT of time. I'm picking up front/rear subframes from an e28 going to the dumpster from a local guy for fairly cheap that I'll likely use for the more modern differential choices and the ability to not use a diverted shock/spring.
I've already got the engine/trans, harness, ecu, etc that I want already, redoing a race body harness will be fairly easy to have basics like front/rear lights, indicators, horn, etc to keep it street legal. I've got a friend who builds cages for a living that I'll probably contract that out, I want to not have a flexy turd of a car if I'm going to put any amount of power in it.
Barry, my dreams are not so lightly crushed. I've done a lot of weird stuff on a much tighter budget
I've already got the engine/trans, harness, ecu, etc that I want already, redoing a race body harness will be fairly easy to have basics like front/rear lights, indicators, horn, etc to keep it street legal. I've got a friend who builds cages for a living that I'll probably contract that out, I want to not have a flexy turd of a car if I'm going to put any amount of power in it.
Barry, my dreams are not so lightly crushed. I've done a lot of weird stuff on a much tighter budget
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
OMG... here you go wizzurp....
Dohn
Well-Known Member
Is that steel, or duct tape? He might need both...
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
do you pay shipment ?
Hey now.
That chassis just needs a little attention and love. After all, it is just sheet metal - that provided a great home for an extended family of rats for years. I'm sorry Wyatt - I am really not trying to poke fun at it. I don't think my car is in that much better shape. Maybe we can go halfsies on the coil.
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Save the plastic liners! Be careful removing them!
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
i don't know.... is this really worth saving ?
I do have a bunch of filler rod for mild to stainless mismatched metals, I rarely use them, would be a good excuse! Has anyone ever build a half stainless e9? It'd probably solve a lot of problems.
Most of my liners are in mediocre shape, the ones covering the rear wheel wells are pretty decent though. Man are they fragile.
Wyatt
Most of my liners are in mediocre shape, the ones covering the rear wheel wells are pretty decent though. Man are they fragile.
Wyatt
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
even if you weld steel to rusty steel ... you need stainless rod.... sure on TIG... just to have a weld seam...
Okay - I just realized that I've been writing "Wayne" instead of "Wyatt". Sorry about that!!!
There was a stainless coupe that someone posted a pic of. I recall it was not well received, but it seems like a good idea to me. But on that one, I don't think "everything" was stainless. Still a lot of steel parts below and within. So would that really solve anything - likely not.
There was a stainless coupe that someone posted a pic of. I recall it was not well received, but it seems like a good idea to me. But on that one, I don't think "everything" was stainless. Still a lot of steel parts below and within. So would that really solve anything - likely not.
No problem, I was getting a giggle out of it. Yeah I'll just be buying two large sheets of mild steel 18g, I'm not spending a bunch to do stainless patches just for giggles. It'll all get coated anyways (not that it seems to help these cars much)Okay - I just realized that I've been writing "Wayne" instead of "Wyatt". Sorry about that!!!
There was a stainless coupe that someone posted a pic of. I recall it was not well received, but it seems like a good idea to me. But on that one, I don't think "everything" was stainless. Still a lot of steel parts below and within. So would that really solve anything - likely not.
I named my '69 E3 "Turd" but your car might be more deserving. I can rename mine "Hum Dinger" if you want to use the name...
I say go for it, there's lots of rust, but if you're going to build something wild and crazy of it, you're at least not bound to try and make it look stock, which makes things much more simple.
With a full cage on top of that, you might get away with not doing all the rockers perfect and so on.
The shell is so far gone, that if it ever rolls on the street again (in any form) it'll still be way better than just crushing the car
You don't have any possibilities of sandblasting the shell yourself?
I borrowed a big air compressor and a little sandblasting machine (cheap portable sand pot), bought alot of sand and did it myself. It was very inexpensive, but I still have sand coming out of my ears..
With a full cage on top of that, you might get away with not doing all the rockers perfect and so on.
The shell is so far gone, that if it ever rolls on the street again (in any form) it'll still be way better than just crushing the car
You don't have any possibilities of sandblasting the shell yourself?
I borrowed a big air compressor and a little sandblasting machine (cheap portable sand pot), bought alot of sand and did it myself. It was very inexpensive, but I still have sand coming out of my ears..
I say go for it, there's lots of rust, but if you're going to build something wild and crazy of it, you're at least not bound to try and make it look stock, which makes things much more simple.
With a full cage on top of that, you might get away with not doing all the rockers perfect and so on.
The shell is so far gone, that if it ever rolls on the street again (in any form) it'll still be way better than just crushing the car
You don't have any possibilities of sandblasting the shell yourself?
I borrowed a big air compressor and a little sandblasting machine (cheap portable sand pot), bought alot of sand and did it myself. It was very inexpensive, but I still have sand coming out of my ears..
I do have a 60 gallon 12ish cfm tank so it's a possibility. Did you just buy a harbor freight one? I actually wouldnt be opposed to that if the open air (non cabinet) style blasters work well. I can do just about any small parts at work, we've got a 3 ft long cabinet but obviously cant stick a car in it. It'd be way more time effective to blast it, especially having a reasonable sized compressor already.
Do you have a link to the one you used? What media did you end up with? It takes awhile to get through the bondo on this thing.
Wyatt