1970 2800CSA rust monster restomod

wizzurp said:
I do have a 60 gallon 12ish cfm tank so it's a possibility. Did you just buy a harbor freight one? I actually wouldnt be opposed to that if the open air (non cabinet) style blasters work well. I can do just about any small parts at work, we've got a 3 ft long cabinet but obviously cant stick a car in it. It'd be way more time effective to blast it, especially having a reasonable sized compressor already.
Do you have a link to the one you used? What media did you end up with? It takes awhile to get through the bondo on this thing.
Wyatt
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The open air style blasters work quite well as long as you have a proper water separator and enough compressed air, but I guess that’s the case for any media blaster type.
I used the finest blast sand I could find, think it was 0,5mm - 1,2mm. 25kg/bag and I bought alot of them.
It eats through bondo pretty easy, I had alot on my car and it wasn’t a problem. As you probably know, you shouldn’t use sand on big straight surfaces as the roof, hood, trunk lid, quarter panels, front fenders, doors. Along the edges of big surfaces is okay if you are careful.

I don’t have a link to the one I used (borrowed), it was quite old, I’ve later also used my friends open air blasters, all from the cheaper end of the market, and they have worked just as good. One thing to consider is to buy one with the biggest tank that you can live with (have room for) as filling the tank takes some time, and you’ll do it alot if you’re going to blast a whole car.

Inspiration:
8ED803DF-0F35-4DF8-80E8-38497FA671AD.jpeg

Just before we laid the first epoxi base I got to borrow a ”real” sandblaster to create a good surface for the paint to attach to the metal on the underside of the car.
F74B5822-1B4B-487F-8AFD-B3C8252C6493.png
 
Ditto. I think we need to redefine the idea of "too far gone". Take this 356 for example:
Rusty-356.jpg

This is a dream project for folks. Why not our E9s?
 
Ten years ago I crushed a '73 coupe that was much much nicer than this one, but at that time I thought it was "to far gone". I guess it's all relative...
 
Worth saving is VERY relative. Cheap car, lots of time required. Not everyone is looking for a concours quality build, I'm going for something that mostly resembles an e9 that I can have fun building and tinkering on.
It's an absolutely awful starting point for a true restoration as most of the actual expensive stuff is completely trash on it. It would be an endless nickel and dime battle. I've already got my sights well below the average person looking for a 10k driver grade e9.

There is a real possibility I'll want to do a proper restoration on an e9 one day but this is not that car.

Here is some extra rust for you guys!

 
dang said:
Ten years ago I crushed a '73 coupe that was much much nicer than this one, but at that time I thought it was "to far gone". I guess it's all relative...
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That makes me sad, I see people doing full blown restoration on completely trash grade datsuns and they had an order of magnitude more production numbers. The community is very different for these cars.
 
wizzurp said:
That makes me sad, I see people doing full blown restoration on completely trash grade datsuns and they had an order of magnitude more production numbers. The community is very different for these cars.
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Tell me about it! LOL I think about that car all the time. It was lack of storage space back then for me and I think I even mentioned the car on this forum before taking it apart. I kept quite a few parts but crushed most of the body. To put it in perspective, I bought the entire complete car with a good drive train and 38/38 Webers for $1000. That's the relative part.

I think what you're doing is awesome. We're all watching...
 
Philippe db said:
Common guys be serious, the real rust on this car isn't yet visible.

This 2800 automatic is for sale for over 1 year for €45.0000 with no interest what so ever.

http://www.gallery-aaldering.com/collection/bmw-2800-cs-e9-automatic-en/

The car we are looking at here can never be restored for less than €45k
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But this is assuming he wants a restored car like that. What I get from all of this is he's going to spend a bunch of time, some money, and learn more than most of us by putting this thing together. In the end he'll have a car that has a bunch of metal patched everywhere and still lands very high on the "fun scale". It's a challenge. It's his choice, and I'm in his corner. I would also completely understand if he gets a couple months into the work and decide to give it up. Most would.
 
dang said:
But this is assuming he wants a restored car like that.
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Another factor is the elbow grease of doing the work yourself. My restoration will cost a fraction of what it would cost a checkbook owner, because my time is evidently free. :D I get the impression Wyatt is a hands on player here.
 
Gransin said:
The open air style blasters work quite well as long as you have a proper water separator and enough compressed air, but I guess that’s the case for any media blaster type.
I used the finest blast sand I could find, think it was 0,5mm - 1,2mm. 25kg/bag and I bought alot of them.
It eats through bondo pretty easy, I had alot on my car and it wasn’t a problem. As you probably know, you shouldn’t use sand on big straight surfaces as the roof, hood, trunk lid, quarter panels, front fenders, doors. Along the edges of big surfaces is okay if you are careful.

I don’t have a link to the one I used (borrowed), it was quite old, I’ve later also used my friends open air blasters, all from the cheaper end of the market, and they have worked just as good. One thing to consider is to buy one with the biggest tank that you can live with (have room for) as filling the tank takes some time, and you’ll do it alot if you’re going to blast a whole car.

Inspiration:
View attachment 44020

Just before we laid the first epoxi base I got to borrow a ”real” sandblaster to create a good surface for the paint to attach to the metal on the underside of the car.
View attachment 44022
Click to expand...


Are you thinking something like this would work? https://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-60696.html At $130 bucks, it might be in Wyatt's price range. Heck, I'm in OKC and might even buy it and loan it to you for a while, just to come down and see this thing.
 
JayWltrs said:
Are you thinking something like this would work? https://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-60696.html At $130 bucks, it might be in Wyatt's price range. Heck, I'm in OKC and might even buy it and loan it to you for a while, just to come down and see this thing.
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I'm not gonna promise anything, but that's about the same model as the ones I've used.
I'd buy this one instead:
https://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-69724.html
Simply because with that one, you can just turn on the valve and let it blast, no need to hold your hand on the "trigger" all the time, which doesn't sound like it would be that bad, but after holding the trigger down a full day, it really gets annoying. You're also more free to hold it in different positions.
Only my $0.02 :)

Oh, and using respiratory + eye + ear + skin protection goes without saying..
 
Gransin said:
I'm not gonna promise anything, but that's about the same model as the ones I've used.
I'd buy this one instead:
https://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-69724.html
Simply because with that one, you can just turn on the valve and let it blast, no need to hold your hand on the "trigger" all the time, which doesn't sound like it would be that bad, but after holding the trigger down a full day, it really gets annoying. You're also more free to hold it in different positions.

Only my $0.02 :)
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I noticed that in the reviews after sending. Also sounds like the inline desiccant/water separator is vital, which you reference above. (Sorry, I'll stop hijacking the thread now).
 
i doubt this project... even if it is for a "race" car , only building this one to a good "casco" will be a huge task... unless you can do it yourself and live a 100 years.... compared any "20k " CS is a alot more acceptable start... this one is "crazy" rusted , it's not a CSL ... chapeau wizzurp , that you still have intentions... :)
 
I don't see what the issue seems to be here?

It's quite evident that this car to most wouldn't be savable and would most likely be parted out, not only does another one get saved from being turned into food cans but it also helps to nurture someone's passion for the platform.

As long as it is structurally and mechanically safe, and the OP is willing to sacrifice time on a project that may or may not pan out as intended, then who are we to doubt?

Oh and if you're looking for engine choices, S85 V10 gets my vote.
 
Alright, wife picked me up a cheapo blaster on the way home from work yesterday. I grabbed 500 lbs of course media from a local tractor supply store to give it a go. Seems to work nicely, I think I need to get something a little more fine though, it leaves little pits in the pieces of stainless and aluminum I tested it out on. I was able to strip powder coating off an old jack stand with it. I really need to buy a blasting hood and some other ppe to keep it out of my eyes/ears/etc.
20180407_181113.jpg
20180407_182631.jpg
 
Wyatt, You might try crushed glass media. I think there is one or two available in a similar price range as the coal slag product you bought. It should pit the metal a bit less, and leave a nice clean surface (and cleaner shop). But yes, please get some personal safety equipment!!! We want you around and healthy long enough to finish the project and enjoy the car. :D
 
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