My body isn't that flexible. Heck I can barely touch my toes!!!
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me too every mornig trying to my socks on
installing today
went w/ 2" then to 2-1/2 out
need a clamp -so finish tomorrow
set the front under cover
big bucks.
covered it w/ three coats of
rubber seal
big bucks.
covered it w/ three coats of
rubber seal
restart
Well-Known Member
Hi Alan, can you make a stencil of that lower engine cover.
I have been considering cutting something to fit.
From what I can see in your pic it looks like a flat piece of plastic?
Regards
A
I have been considering cutting something to fit.
From what I can see in your pic it looks like a flat piece of plastic?
Regards
A
it is made of a type of paper board
i cut it to fit in the front w/ a set of diagonals and mat knife
it was a bit long in the front
you could use plastic alright
as i made one for the xjs.
i cut it to fit in the front w/ a set of diagonals and mat knife
it was a bit long in the front
you could use plastic alright
as i made one for the xjs.
the rear emblem looked naked
so i modified andn extra c piller backing for the 60MM r
oundel
came out better.
so i modified andn extra c piller backing for the 60MM r
came out better.
fired up the megasquirt controller today.
exciting for me, the power to it was hooked up wrong.
got it all figured out.
starting to set default values.
will be sittin by the computer for a while tomorrow
oh boy!!
exciting for me, the power to it was hooked up wrong.
got it all figured out.
starting to set default values.
will be sittin by the computer for a while tomorrow
oh boy!!
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set the heater small heater in the car and hooked up the comp.
was able to get all preliminary settings burned in as they say.
I, dont know if a dare turn it over, as it may just start and go ballistic.
fry the valves or something.
tomorrow ill check each circuit to make sure all the sensors and tach are
feeding to the box.
ha
was able to get all preliminary settings burned in as they say.
I, dont know if a dare turn it over, as it may just start and go ballistic.
fry the valves or something.
tomorrow ill check each circuit to make sure all the sensors and tach are
feeding to the box.
ha
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Pretty exciting indeed! Are you going to have it dyno'ed just to get it exactly dialed in?
yes i have to tow it to ftech in hayward and they do everything
finished up the hood ,
ran the hose inside cause i dont like it flopping around
finished all the plugs.
since it is an early hood -had to cut access holes for the washers
tryed to do it without the holes -but too tight to get to.
covered anyway.
big plugs are from the m5 floor
ran the hose inside cause i dont like it flopping around
finished all the plugs.
since it is an early hood -had to cut access holes for the washers
tryed to do it without the holes -but too tight to get to.
covered anyway.
big plugs are from the m5 floor
got my leather magic today
fun tomorrow
fun tomorrow
Alan,
I've sprayed, brushed and "wiped' leather dye on various German leathers. IF I'm doing a complete seat (or panel), I've had the best success with the 'wiping' method (similar to wiping stain on a piece of wood). I use several (maybe 6-10) thin applications, allowing at least 1-2 days between applications.
I've also been using a procedure I got from a Ferrari Forum to prepare the leather surface. First, I wipe it with a clean cloth soaked with lacquer thinner to remove all the old dead 'paint'. I keep doing this until essentially no more color is released from the leather onto the cloth. Then, I use several treatments of a leather softener (I've used many, I like ColorPlus Soffener, or Leather Therapy), allowing at least 24 hours between applications (until no more seems to sink in during that period of time. Then, another wipe or two with a fresh cloth soaked in lacquer thinner to remove any softener on the surface, let dry a day or two, then apply the actual coats of dye. Yes, a long, involved process, but I've found it provides a very durable dyed surface and quite supple long lasting leather.
Just my procedure - if you are interested in considering it.
Gary
I've sprayed, brushed and "wiped' leather dye on various German leathers. IF I'm doing a complete seat (or panel), I've had the best success with the 'wiping' method (similar to wiping stain on a piece of wood). I use several (maybe 6-10) thin applications, allowing at least 1-2 days between applications.
I've also been using a procedure I got from a Ferrari Forum to prepare the leather surface. First, I wipe it with a clean cloth soaked with lacquer thinner to remove all the old dead 'paint'. I keep doing this until essentially no more color is released from the leather onto the cloth. Then, I use several treatments of a leather softener (I've used many, I like ColorPlus Soffener, or Leather Therapy), allowing at least 24 hours between applications (until no more seems to sink in during that period of time. Then, another wipe or two with a fresh cloth soaked in lacquer thinner to remove any softener on the surface, let dry a day or two, then apply the actual coats of dye. Yes, a long, involved process, but I've found it provides a very durable dyed surface and quite supple long lasting leather.
Just my procedure - if you are interested in considering it.
Gary
great
ive not done it before so
this will help a lot
ok
ive not done it before so
this will help a lot
ok
minor things today
repainted the hood hinges. and rest
the body shop put them on backward.
fine tuned the tuner strudio program
i may try and turn it over tomorrow as i've researched all the minute data and specifications.
after studing it for a few days
things seemed to fall into place rather well in the program
still will run it down to dyno and tweak it in.
purchased the ground control setup, so most likely pull the springs tomorrow.
repainted the hood hinges. and rest
the body shop put them on backward.
fine tuned the tuner strudio program
i may try and turn it over tomorrow as i've researched all the minute data and specifications.
after studing it for a few days
things seemed to fall into place rather well in the program
still will run it down to dyno and tweak it in.
purchased the ground control setup, so most likely pull the springs tomorrow.
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grilles of for hood assembly so i added a thin piece of foam on the
ends so they have a cushion when assembled
much better feel and wont wear on the paint.
ends so they have a cushion when assembled
much better feel and wont wear on the paint.
the foam will trap water, perhaps not a problem where you live
never drive in the rain