Yep, same ones I've ordered. Two extra sets available if anyone needs them.
5 speed shift linkage bushing replacement
- Thread starter Stevehose
- Start date
Hello, yes - I'll take a set. I think I was the one that mentioned setting up the next group buy, and I clearly dropped the ball on that one.
But hopefully I can help absorb this purchase and end up with a set. Will send PM.
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
Just getting ready to install my getrag 265/6 and want to renew all the bushings - Does a list of part numbers along with diagrams exist anywhere - or even better yet, a how-to on this? I already read the “prep” document but that doesn’t go into this specific topic in detail.
Just getting ready to install my getrag 265/6 and want to renew all the bushings - Does a list of part numbers along with diagrams exist anywhere - or even better yet, a how-to on this? I already read the “prep” document but that doesn’t go into this specific topic in detail.
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
Hi all, bumping the question - What parts are available to refresh the shift mechanism and where from, what are not? My shop are starting to prepare to install the 265/6 5 speed into my car.
It's difficult to follow the thread / know what is being referred to without BMW part numbers where appropriate so that would be useful.
Alternatively, should I just splash out on aftermarket kits like UUC or Schmiedmann to get everything nice and tight? I'm a newbie to this so would appreciate some babying / basic advice here!
It's difficult to follow the thread / know what is being referred to without BMW part numbers where appropriate so that would be useful.
Alternatively, should I just splash out on aftermarket kits like UUC or Schmiedmann to get everything nice and tight? I'm a newbie to this so would appreciate some babying / basic advice here!
It's difficult to follow most threads, but a little patience and choosing the right information is the art that takes time.
Here's the post where I talk about my getting the shift parts from Carl @ La Jolla. I'll attach the list of parts I bought but have yet to install.
You could look up the parts on realoem.com to see diagrams like this one for 25-11-1-202-842.
Note that realoem.com prices are not accurate, often they are old and it's not a place you can buy anything, but it can be a handy reference. A few part listings have a little camera icon and have an actual photo of the part.
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Here is where I miss Bavarian Motorsport. They had kits with all the parts ready to go.
I too obtained my parts from Carl Nelson. I have three suggestions beyond what you will find in Carl's material.
Steve has a DSSR: https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/5-speed-shift-linkage-bushing-replacement.20602/#post-188739. If I were doing this over again I would go with the DSSR as Steve did rather than a BMW part. BMW parts work fine for the shift lever - I think I have an e21 part in my car - but the DSSR is superior to a BMW selector rod.
Use the Coupe King bracket to hold your transmission in place. It is far superior in our cars to any BMW part: http://www.coupeking.com/shop/product/e9-5-speed-conversion-mount-kit/
Lastly, when you install the shifter platform into the car, use the SFDon technique to install the back of the shift platform to the body of the car. Get a longish 8mm bolt (say 40 or 45 mm long), and a sway bar end bushing (BMW part number 31351125712, if you want new, but a used one will work). Expand both the hole in the shifter platform and in the car to allow the bolt to pass through. Then, working from the bottom, install the bolt (with a washer) though the platform, then through the bushing, then up through the body of the car. Then use a washer and two - yes two - nuts on the top of the bolt inside the car. I've had my shift platform let go twice on me to the point where you have to pull up on the shift level in order to change gears, before I found this tip.
Steve has a DSSR: https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/5-speed-shift-linkage-bushing-replacement.20602/#post-188739. If I were doing this over again I would go with the DSSR as Steve did rather than a BMW part. BMW parts work fine for the shift lever - I think I have an e21 part in my car - but the DSSR is superior to a BMW selector rod.
Use the Coupe King bracket to hold your transmission in place. It is far superior in our cars to any BMW part: http://www.coupeking.com/shop/product/e9-5-speed-conversion-mount-kit/
Lastly, when you install the shifter platform into the car, use the SFDon technique to install the back of the shift platform to the body of the car. Get a longish 8mm bolt (say 40 or 45 mm long), and a sway bar end bushing (BMW part number 31351125712, if you want new, but a used one will work). Expand both the hole in the shifter platform and in the car to allow the bolt to pass through. Then, working from the bottom, install the bolt (with a washer) though the platform, then through the bushing, then up through the body of the car. Then use a washer and two - yes two - nuts on the top of the bolt inside the car. I've had my shift platform let go twice on me to the point where you have to pull up on the shift level in order to change gears, before I found this tip.
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
Thanks all. I do use realoem- the issue is working out first what are all the wearing parts, then which of those are able to be replaced.
I have bought Coupe King’s mounting kit as I was impressed by how well engineered it seemed to be and thought it will pay for itself in reduced workshop labour time.
I was looking at the UUC short shift kit and also the DSSR they sell. I was also looking at the Schmiedmann short shift kit but that does not use a DSSR, although it is 1/3 of the cost! The issue with both is neither can tell me whether their kits will fit without a problem onto my car.
I will read the links provided. Thanks again @mulberryworks and @Ohmess - much appreciated.
I have bought Coupe King’s mounting kit as I was impressed by how well engineered it seemed to be and thought it will pay for itself in reduced workshop labour time.
I was looking at the UUC short shift kit and also the DSSR they sell. I was also looking at the Schmiedmann short shift kit but that does not use a DSSR, although it is 1/3 of the cost! The issue with both is neither can tell me whether their kits will fit without a problem onto my car.
I will read the links provided. Thanks again @mulberryworks and @Ohmess - much appreciated.
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I don't beleive the aftermarket kits allow you to keep your original screw-on knob if that's important to you. That's why I cobbled mine together just using the dogbone and the 320i lower lever along with the bronze bushings. Also make sure they understand how to align the output flange to the drive shaft via adjustment of the center bearing.
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
@Stevehose
Steve,
I am looking for a tight gearchange with not too long a throw (i.e. I'd rather have a lovely smooth and tight shift as my no.1 priority) - It seems to be that the ideal setup from a cost vs. results & aesthetics (via the gearknob) point of view is to use a DSSR from UUC with otherwise standard BMW shifter parts; and using a UUC (or any other) short shifter kit would be overkill for what I need.
Thank you for sharing and taking such good pictures so people like me can follow what you've done! A few quick questions after reading the above links and looking at the parts laundry list helpfully provided by @mulberryworks to compare the different approaches - hope you don't mind sharing further:
Finally, I believe for those of us based in Europe and reading this thread, these are the bronze bushes needed - hope it helps! https://www.123bearing.co.uk/accessory-oil-filled-plain-bronze-bush-BMF10-13-20.php.
Thanks.
Steve,
I am looking for a tight gearchange with not too long a throw (i.e. I'd rather have a lovely smooth and tight shift as my no.1 priority) - It seems to be that the ideal setup from a cost vs. results & aesthetics (via the gearknob) point of view is to use a DSSR from UUC with otherwise standard BMW shifter parts; and using a UUC (or any other) short shifter kit would be overkill for what I need.
Thank you for sharing and taking such good pictures so people like me can follow what you've done! A few quick questions after reading the above links and looking at the parts laundry list helpfully provided by @mulberryworks to compare the different approaches - hope you don't mind sharing further:
- I assume dogbone = DSSR?
- 320i lower lever - Do you mean this part? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part...sg=05&diagId=25_0212&q=25111220213&series=E12
- (ignoring the slop removed using the DSSR and bronze bushes for a moment) Are you pleased with the amount of throw vs. effort to change gear - Would you recommend using this part, or would you choose a different selector lower lever if you did it all again?
Finally, I believe for those of us based in Europe and reading this thread, these are the bronze bushes needed - hope it helps! https://www.123bearing.co.uk/accessory-oil-filled-plain-bronze-bush-BMF10-13-20.php.
Thanks.
1. Yes
2. I think it is this one, there is an early and late version 25111205870
3. I love my setup and wouldn't want to change a thing. Every shift is pure bliss.
I used the 144mm one, I suppose a 147mm would work, it would make the throw a little shorter because it's a little longer. I also used E12 parts.
2. I think it is this one, there is an early and late version 25111205870
3. I love my setup and wouldn't want to change a thing. Every shift is pure bliss.
I used the 144mm one, I suppose a 147mm would work, it would make the throw a little shorter because it's a little longer. I also used E12 parts.
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
Hi @Stevehose - Thanks again.
OK according to realoem it looks like 25111205870, as well as being the original part for pretty much all 02's and E21s, is the correct original part for my transmission (E12 528i), so it's actually not an upgrade like I was thinking it was. However, it was superseded by part no. 25111220213 that I quoted above, which is NOT listed as fitting an E12 528i - Strange!
I thought the extra 3mm on the DSSR would put the gear lever further forward when in neutral (and hence 1st / 3rd / 5th gears would take the lever closer to the dash), right? I would be interested to know whether anyone has any input here.
Thank you for clearing all this up. Ready to move forward I think - One last question to anyone here - See below the pictures of the original shifter mounting / tower that was supplied with my gearbox - What is the purpose of that strange rubber piece on the welded bracket at the rear? It resembles the "stop buffer" in the above diagram (although the bracketry holding it is different) - Is it simply there to prevent upward movement of the shift tower (and hence contact with the transmission tunnel) when the torque forces mean the engine and box move around slightly?
Would be interested to get opinions on all of this.
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That looks like the mount to the tunnel
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
Ah yes - Just seen this picture from LaJolla - Looks like that piece is omitted for the setup I've bought and instead that mount is repurposed for the rear support bracket. Mystery solved!
Thank you very much. Any further thoughts from anyone on the +3mm DSSR length vs. gear position comment? Would be interested to hear from someone who has the 147mm version installed on their car here.
Thank you very much. Any further thoughts from anyone on the +3mm DSSR length vs. gear position comment? Would be interested to hear from someone who has the 147mm version installed on their car here.
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That rubber piece you are asking about is in the hole that you use for the SFDon bolt. Don't use that; remove it and throw it away. The sway bar end bushing replaces that piece. In either case, the function of that piece of rubber is to isolate the shift lever from vibrations that would otherwise be transmitted into your hand.
Unfortunately, shift level feel is a somewhat subjective thing. I've driven a handful of cars with short shifter kits that the owners' raved about that I didn't like. Maybe I'm old school, but I don't like a throw that is too short. Why not get the 144 mm version? UUC shows them on its web site:http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/dssr---double-shear-selector-rod---e46-m3---144mm-p287.aspx
Unfortunately, shift level feel is a somewhat subjective thing. I've driven a handful of cars with short shifter kits that the owners' raved about that I didn't like. Maybe I'm old school, but I don't like a throw that is too short. Why not get the 144 mm version? UUC shows them on its web site:http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/dssr---double-shear-selector-rod---e46-m3---144mm-p287.aspx
Yes mine is shorter than stock but I wouldn't classify it as "short throw"
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
Thanks both - I found a used 147mm DSSC in excellent condition for exactly half the pre-shipping price UUC is selling them for - this is what was prompting my interest: Given @Drew Gregg has used this version successfully and also the part it will replace measures 147mm, I decided it was worth pulling the trigger on it to try it out, I can always replace it with a new 144mm if it for some reason proves unsatisfactory and recoup my money by selling it on.
Steve - Shorter than standard / stock is all I'm after with the desired outcome of a lovely rifle-bolt accurate change without having to strain, I think from your previous posts you're satisfied your upgrade achieves this, so I'm going to follow your recipe apart from the DSSC length and will report back eventually when I get to drive the thing!
Steve - Shorter than standard / stock is all I'm after with the desired outcome of a lovely rifle-bolt accurate change without having to strain, I think from your previous posts you're satisfied your upgrade achieves this, so I'm going to follow your recipe apart from the DSSC length and will report back eventually when I get to drive the thing!
The 147MM DSSR was the same length as my existing shift rod. I exchanged it for a 144mm DSSR since the bend in the new shifter was less than the original. When the shop installed everything, I found that 1st,3rd and 5th were too far forward. They took out the new shifter and bent it in a press to have the same bend as the original. Now all is fine with none of the sloppy feeling as before the replacement. I have that rifle -bolt accurate change you mention. But the actual distance from 1st to 2nd seems to be about the same as before. And that's fine with me.
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
@Drew Gregg - Ah. More work to do then potentially.
Maybe I’m not understanding you correctly - If the bend in your new shifter is now the same as the original, plus your original shift rod was the same length as the first DSSR, why did you need to exchange it for the 144? Your post says because the bend in the shifter was less but I read that you corrected this?
Maybe I’m not understanding you correctly - If the bend in your new shifter is now the same as the original, plus your original shift rod was the same length as the first DSSR, why did you need to exchange it for the 144? Your post says because the bend in the shifter was less but I read that you corrected this?