That's pretty cool. Avoids dreaded rear wheel lockup! Kinda tough for Gymkhana driving, but i'll take it!
72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration
- Thread starter ScottAndrews
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Disassembly question of the day:
Is there a trick to getting the rear most front fender belt line trim nut off? It seems to be hidden behind the door hinge.
Thankfully, there is a detailed thread on dealing with the dread fuel door rubber gasket or I'd have two disassembly questions!
Is there a trick to getting the rear most front fender belt line trim nut off? It seems to be hidden behind the door hinge.
Thankfully, there is a detailed thread on dealing with the dread fuel door rubber gasket or I'd have two disassembly questions!
there is one in the door well - you open the door all the way and reach into the slot and you will find it.
I use a tiny open end ignition wrench.
my favorite is a small racheting box end for ones you have to reach for. on ones behind the windows i used a flexible carburetor adjusting tool w/ a 1/4" drive socket.
I got all of them except the crazy one behind the door hinge. Of course I have every socket size known to man, but only 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 mm small combo wrenches, and these are 9mm nuts, 11/32 is too small, and 3/8 too big...
. Ordered a micro ratcheting swivel 9mm wrench.. should come tomorrow.Got all the AC condenser and fan stuff out, front bumper off, belt trim (other than the front fender pieces), horns, etc.
Got the balky turn signals out using a long screwdriver and a little twist from inside. Thanks to @e9Leveque for that!.
Tomorrow I tackle that last hidden nut in the gas door flap.. WTF designed THAT?!
Shell is getting emptier and emptier!
If there a Harbor Freight near you, they sell a small ratcheting socket set that is phenomenal at getting into these tight corridors. I suspect Gearwrench and others have similar sets, but yes, a mini ratchet with pass through bits for extra low profile is helpful for some of these bolts and nuts. And enjoy that gas flap third nut but yes definitely review the recent gas flap thread, lots of good tips there
Not clear to me why they didn't put the gas door hinge on with a plate to sandwich the hinge and the boot, so the nuts would be outside the boot.
The long threaded nuts seem like a good fix.
The long threaded nuts seem like a good fix.
Once that trim nut is loose you can slide the belt trim off of it and then turn the t-bolt with pliers. Install is reverse and fewer turns of the nut are required.
@ScottAndrews : Wrt to the turn signals, here is a pic showing the bracket that resides behind the front fender through which the 2 screws hold the chrome frame in place.
In OEM condition, after removal of the 2 screws, the bracket at the back should fall off (unless waxed / body-schutzed in place) and the chrome housing should come off.
If the housing doesn't come off, it's likely held in place by the rubber grommet that has developed an adhesion to the chrome housing and fender.
Some gentle massaging should set it free.
You can actually access the inside of the fender and that backing bracket when you remove the front grills around the light cluster.
Thanks to @Keshav for his pics
Attachments
Yep! I had removed the backing plates, but the chrome housing would not move. I used a long large screwdriver and put it between the body and the housing ON THE INSIDE (to avoid buggering up the housing or the body), and twisted it. Sure enough the housing came loose, and I had to peel off the gasket.@ScottAndrews : Wrt to the turn signals, here is a pic showing the bracket that resides behind the front fender through which the 2 screws hold the chrome frame in place
If the housing doesn't come off, it's likely held in place by the rubber grommet that has developed an adhesion to the chrome housing and fender.
Some gentle massaging should set it free.
You can actually access the inside of the fender and that backing bracket when you remove the front grills around the light cluster.
Thanks to @Keshav for his pics
All good.
Wrestled the third nut off the gas door, and got the boot off. I put the door back on, since it has to go to paint.
No other significant drama today, other than the tool box falling apart in brittle pieces as I removed it . It was empty of tools, and had been painted black along with everything else in the trunk, so I was expecting to have to replace it.
Getting down to the short strokes now. Rear bumper, fuel tank, brake calipers and parking brake, clutch MC, fuel and brake lines, and wiring. Try the dry Ice trick on the remaining sound deadening, a good deep cleaning, paint the headliner, and ship it off to body and paint!!
Going to power wash the old wheels, and put some cheap tires on them so I am not sending my beautiful Alpinas to the body shop...
No other significant drama today, other than the tool box falling apart in brittle pieces as I removed it
. It was empty of tools, and had been painted black along with everything else in the trunk, so I was expecting to have to replace it.Getting down to the short strokes now. Rear bumper, fuel tank, brake calipers and parking brake, clutch MC, fuel and brake lines, and wiring. Try the dry Ice trick on the remaining sound deadening, a good deep cleaning, paint the headliner, and ship it off to body and paint!!
Going to power wash the old wheels, and put some cheap tires on them so I am not sending my beautiful Alpinas to the body shop...