72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration

Scott, I think you and I had discussed this, but I feel like you need to add a simple powder coating setup to your armamentarium. It's not very expensive, pretty easy, and for things like the pulleys I do think that it provides a more durable coating. Plus it's just sort of fun. Just a thought.
 
Scott? Now is the time to get that new vapor honing equipment that we ahave been discussing... Neighbor!
 
That’s the way to go. Vapor hone is great for aluminum parts, but with my setup I also have the ability to dry blast and it is helpful on old rusty parts to do that. A cyclone separator for the dust is important.
 
e9Leveque said:
Scott, I think you and I had discussed this, but I feel like you need to add a simple powder coating setup to your armamentarium. It's not very expensive, pretty easy, and for things like the pulleys I do think that it provides a more durable coating. Plus it's just sort of fun. Just a thought.
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Not a bad idea. If I do this I'll get a small oven. I really don't want to crowd my shop with an old stove... But you are right, for small stuff that would beat a 2 hour round trip drive to the powder coaters
 
ScottAndrews said:
Not a bad idea. If I do this I'll get a small oven. I really don't want to crowd my shop with an old stove... But you are right, for small stuff that would beat a 2 hour round trip drive to the powder coaters
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Yes, Eastwood's simple powder coater works well, their toaster oven is pretty nice and worth the slight cost over a standard toaster oven mainly because it has convection and a top and bottom heating element and is pretty sizable. I also picked up a semi-cheap ($120?) infrared heat lamp element off of Amazon designed to do larger pieces, you just have to do parts in sections. For your brake protection pieces, for example, would do front side for the 20 minutes at temp and then the rear. Simple enough.
 
e9Leveque said:
Yes, Eastwood's simple powder coater works well, their toaster oven is pretty nice and worth the slight cost over a standard toaster oven mainly because it has convection and a top and bottom heating element and is pretty sizable. I also picked up a semi-cheap ($120?) infrared heat lamp element off of Amazon designed to do larger pieces, you just have to do parts in sections. For your brake protection pieces, for example, would do front side for the 20 minutes at temp and then the rear. Simple enough.
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I actually have the Eastwood order coating system. Bought that several years back, but never started using it. So all I need is the oven.. Ordered..

Great solution, since all of the big stuff is off at the pro powder coating shop
 
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ScottAndrews said:
I actually have the Eastwood order coating system. Bought that several years back, but never started using it. So all I need is the oven..
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I initially used a toaster oven recommended by people online that I picked up off of marketplace. Not worth it. It was smaller, harder to heat control, the heating elements were closer in to the center making it hard to actually have anything sizable, etc. Eastwood’s works great.
For the larger items this is the unit I ordered. I used it to powder coat my valve cover as well as the front brake protection covers. As mentioned just did in parts using infrared thermometer to make sure I was hitting heating targets for enough time and overlapping
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Interesting observation:

I have been obsessing over the issue of the dimpled vs non dimpled CV boot shrouds. These are the yellow zinc flange covers that connect the CV joint to the half-shaft side boots. On my car two of these have been mis-shaped by hanging half shafts.

The Rein replacements are OK, but the zinc seems too white, and the dimples mean you need the later style "dog-bone" reinforcing plates...

I located an E24 half shaft cheap on eBay and disassembled it. Those have flat faced covers that will use the standard bolt plates (not the dog bone ones). They do have a raised shoulder all the way around the flange, but that seems unobtrusive. Here's a pic..

Standard E9:
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E24 (this is the worst of the two in terms of non-roundness, but it is way better than my worst E9 one.. I'm pretty sure I can tweak it back to round. You can see the raised shoulder on the inner flange. One issue with the original design was that the barrel that holds the boot could get bent so to was angles relative to the plane of the mounting base, which meant that the center of the boot was no longer at the center of the CV joint, so when it was turning the rubber boot would be flexing up and down on each revolution. I guess the raised shoulder helped alleviate that, and the later dimples did so even better...
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Got the CV joints packed today. Wow is THAT ever a gooey job! In the end, I relented and just used the Rein boots. I'll have to source some dog bone plates.

Found a place that the powder coater recommended to Cerakote the Stahl headers. Planning to do thos win silver to match the stainless exhaust.

Getting another load of larger parts ready for the powder coater... (At @e9Leveque 's suggestion I ordered the Eastwood oven, and I have their powder coating system (never used... been in a box for 4-5 years!!), so I'll use that for the smaller stuff.

Looks like my front bumper brackets were already powder coated.. Whatever is on there takes time to blast off!! Leaving that for the powder guys...

Questions:
I am powder coating the large bracket that holds the wiper posits and motors (wows that ever a mess!!). Is there some trick to dis assembling the two pivot rods. They seem to be on ball joints that are riveted in. Do they just snap out?

Also, what is the proper finish for those parts?

W-N shows them in silver zinc, but it seems like all other open metal work is usually yellow zinc...

Are there replacements for the spindles? Mine are very gummy and corroded.
 
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Yes they just snap out. Agree that I have seen both options for finishes, not sure which was the original. Regarding spindles, reach out to TomHom. I thought I had lost one of mine and was going to get another from him but then found it. You can also get some replacement rubber parts from Oils Design Group if you need them
 
I'm going to take a run at refurbishing these wiper parts myself. I figure some cleaning and polishing will clean up the metal before plating (Just ordered the Caswell Zinc plating setup).. And I'm going to use yellow zinc on the wiper rods.
 
Was out at the car Tuesday to check on progress. Surprisingly there were four coupes in the body shop! One had been in a fender bender in SF, the other was being refreshed (mostly engine bay and under side), mine, and the one getting a new front clip.

They have made good progress on my car. All of the primary body work is now done. They have a few holes to fill (side markers, antenna, etc.) but they seem to be on the glide-path to pain in the next month or so.

The front passenger floor was a job. The Mike Pelly pan did most of the work, butt hey had to fabricate patches for the corner and part of the trans tunnel that had rusted out. @sfdon came through with a rear floor pan while the one from W_N was stuck in customs hell Thanks!!!

Eugene says it should be done in about 6 weeks or so...
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ScottAndrews said:
Here is the Oil Pressure setup. To test the meter, you have to connect it to 12 volts and ground, and then connect a variable resistor between 10 and 180 ohms to the G terminal..

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I used your information to test my Porsche oil pressure gauge and it sprang to life. Somewhere I have a VW test tool for testing gauges that lets you dial in a wide range of different resistances. It hasn't resurfaced yet after the move from FL so I used some fixed resistors for my initial test. At least the gauge is responsive and did settle to different point when I changed resistors.
 
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