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'73 Golf Bavaria Build Thread

bavbob

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How much manipulation did you do for the belt trim? It took me forever to tweak the front and rear sections to bend around the curves of the trunk and hood. I also had to use small o-rings for each new grommet to get them to stick out enough to engage the trim itself. That worked out since it also seals against water. I used a tiny amount of 3M strip caulk around each screw-nut combo as a seal. This took longer than putting back everything else after my new paint.
 

OCCoupe

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Shane it was a pleasure, your E3 is looking great! The trim really looks nice against that shiny paint.

As for names, I would call her Grace as in Grace Jones since Golf Yellow adds a bit of wildness to the your car.
 
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E3_kiwi

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How much manipulation did you do for the belt trim? It took me forever to tweak the front and rear sections to bend around the curves of the trunk and hood. I also had to use small o-rings for each new grommet to get them to stick out enough to engage the trim itself. That worked out since it also seals against water. I used a tiny amount of 3M strip caulk around each screw-nut combo as a seal. This took longer than putting back everything else after my new paint.
This is all good information for my planned belt trim restoration, thanks.
 

GolfBavaria

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Nice pic but car not running right still

Been a little depressed and down in the dumps after many attempts to keep car original to Zenith carbs. I am starting to hit the wall in terms of my patience level. I have decided to go injection which kills me. For those of you following this thread know I have tried my best to keep as original as possible. I am transitioning to going the injection route but I am still not giving up on at least getting a drivable Zenith dual carb set up until injection route pans out.

Each day has become more and more challenging and costing way too much money to justify staying true to carburetors. I will say I held out as long as I could patience wise. Please let this be a learning lesson to those that want to follow the same path. I will be the first to sit over a cup of coffee and tell you all about my trials and tribulations. I'm still trouble shooting a lot of stuff from gas tank, to hard and soft lines, to fuel filter, ignition, timing, fuel pump, more carb sleuthing, etc. but I am at the end of my rope.....to be continued... at least someone took a nice picture of it at Autokennel the other day after everyone left and I was stuck doing guess what? Addressing my carbs! Arghhhh! The joys......I tell you.
 

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bavbob

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I read everything that moved about the Zeniths and what I ended up doing was
1) I Pulled them and did rebuilds, for all I know it did nothing, but made me feel better. This ensures no vacuum leak between stages, no float bowl issues.
2) Since I had carbs off, I replaced the starter cause it looked old and was sitting in the breeze, why not.
3) I got rid of the entire thermo EGR setup and just ran the vacuum from the rear carb directly to the distributor.
4) I used a vacuum gauge and dealt with each carb separate. I got them to match up and made sure the gauge did not fluctuate much. I believe it was 25-28mmHg for each.
5) I then ran a vacuum line from one carb to the other as suggested by DeQ which smoothed things out.

I don't have the equipment to synch them but it actually runs quite nice. There is one screw under the center support that holds the air cleaner on which could be loose and cause a leak.

You have come this far, stay original!
 

GolfBavaria

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Thanks Bob yeah I have done a lot of what you said, carbs have been apart and "rebuilt" three times now over the last year. We were messing with the vacuum lines last night like you suggested, followed the diagram.Haven't used a vacuum gauge on each carb yet, don't know where to find those anymore. Any suggestions? Want to come by this week and check them out? Your welcome...always welcome.

We are focusing now on making sure gas tank, to steel fuel lines, to rubber fuel lines are all clear back to front. Fuel filter is clear no vapor lock. I can see some air in the line at the T in between carbs, that doesn't look "normal or good" to me, kind of the air in the brake line theory as to no bueno, but not sure if same philosophy. I have a clear T which I can see the fuel through. Diaphragms appear good for secondaries, sounded like they were doing there job but still no top end power especially under load and the secondary butterfly's still do no open. We Checked cylinder pressure, all was good. Set the timing, it was idling nice and runs fine when sitting there but as soon as it drives, nothing there, no power at all. Like it is getting fuel starved when you give gas. Spark plugs looked like engine running a little rich, not lean. So, it's very strange and very frustrating at this point but will keep plugging a way for a bit until I throw in the towel....I'm one of those guys that would rather have a car that doesn't look good but is mechanically sound, than have something that looks good but you can't drive, what's the point? Anyhow, thanks for the advice!
 

bavbob

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Assume you swapped out the flex gas line from the sender and also the flex line from the firewall up to the fuel pump since they are old and crumble.

I have to say mine ran like crap and I checked the fuel pump manually and it seemed fine but I just swapped it out and bingo. Pull the line, get an empty bottle, someone crank it and you check it.

Also if running rich, pull those cold start valve equivalents (damn I cannot remember what they are called, those square boxes joined to the second stage of each carb with a single male spade). They should open and close with 12V. Perhaps stuck open so you are getting too much gas.

You buy the plane ticket, I'll come by.
 

Stevehose

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Agree, make darn sure it's not some other component(s). Ignition and fuel delivery must be verified, I like Bob's idea of swapping in a known good pump. The carb bodies were honed flat during rebuild? Royze kits were used instead of Walker?

Are the carbs in sync both at idle and at 3000rpm?


Assume you swapped out the flex gas line from the sender and also the flex line from the firewall up to the fuel pump since they are old and crumble.

I have to say mine ran like crap and I checked the fuel pump manually and it seemed fine but I just swapped it out and bingo. Pull the line, get an empty bottle, someone crank it and you check it.

Also if running rich, pull those cold start valve equivalents (damn I cannot remember what they are called, those square boxes joined to the second stage of each carb with a single male spade). They should open and close with 12V. Perhaps stuck open so you are getting too much gas.

You buy the plane ticket, I'll come by.
 

GolfBavaria

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Hey guys yeah carbs were honed, not sure on the kit brand, I'll have to double check that.... not at home at the moment. I just ordered a new pump, only $100 and mine was old anyways, even if still working properly can't hurt at this point just get a new one. Bob I forgot you were in Boston LOL, thought you were here in SoCal, didn't I meet you at the SoCal Vintage this year? Anyhow biggest thing bothering me now is the air in the line. We are tracing fuel and vacuum lines today, hopefully we keep narrowing down what it is one step at a time. Pump won't be in for a couple days.
 

61porsche

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Check your

spark. You're describing a typical issue if the carbs idle and then fall flat. That and the high HG ( vacuum. Don't run at highest- back down a little to 18-20)

Start over with the timing. Verify that the weights in the distributer spring back, oiled, etc.
 

GolfBavaria

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So thanks for all the help with the suggestions on the carbs. So, guess what it came down to? The needle valve that comes with the rebuild kits are worthless I guess. Again, I need to look at receipt as to what brand they were, they were not Royz. There were a lot of bright people trying to figure out what was wrong with them over the last few weeks and sometimes it comes down to a $.02 cent part getting stuck or being the problem. The cheap needle valve in rebuild kit was sticking and therefore not letting the fuel flow properly. Insane! Luckily I kept original and replaced it and they worked instantly. Anyhow, glad it was figured out before major damage was done to motor. I can thank the wizard from Chicago for this. Thanks again everyone. Smiley face; I can drive it again! Arghhhhhhh!
 

Stevehose

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Now that you mention it when I rebuilt my Zeniths I also ended up reusing the needle valves because the new ones were junk, didn't have the little recessed ball at the end. I suspect yours were Walker kits :roll: like mine. Royze are the ones to use.

Glad you got past that hurdle.


So thanks for all the help with the suggestions on the carbs. So, guess what it came down to? The needle valve that comes with the rebuild kits are worthless I guess. Again, I need to look at receipt as to what brand they were, they were not Royz. There were a lot of bright people trying to figure out what was wrong with them over the last few weeks and sometimes it comes down to a $.02 cent part getting stuck or being the problem. The cheap needle valve in rebuild kit was sticking and therefore not letting the fuel flow properly. Insane! Luckily I kept original and replaced it and they worked instantly. Anyhow, glad it was figured out before major damage was done to motor. I can thank the wizard from Chicago for this. Thanks again everyone. Smiley face; I can drive it again! Arghhhhhhh!
 

bavbob

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By needle valve do you mean the float bowl valve? When I did mine, the original were so much better to my eye, I cleaned them and kept them and never used the ones in the kit. I dodged a bullet then.

I actually think the float bowl valve is the hardest thing to get right. I rebuilt the carb on our 67 mustang and talk about poor temperament (it and then me).
 
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GolfBavaria

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Updated pics, been a while, still a lot to do before Monterrey

Sorry for quality of pics but had to reduce file sizes quite a bit. Exterior bits are almost done, antennae should be on this week and hooked up to radio. Rest is all engine bay and interior bits.
 

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bavbob

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Ahh early and late sixers. When I got my Bavaria, I introduced it to my 635 and M6 as dad. When I pulled along side a new M6 I said "you would not be here if it were not for me".
 
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