OK, I have to ask, I have never heard of this concrete so how does one know if they have such a slab? I always thought concrete was concrete, rebar, etc, please enlighten this "rocket scientist". Thanks,
74 3.0 CS Mild Restoration
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Peter,
these are used where structural slabs are required - for instance, a typical residential slab on grade with wire mesh in it, really isn't considered a structural slab. post tensioned concrete slabs are used to span a distance between columns or foundation piers - we use them a lot in hotel raised floor construction (my experience with them) and this method allows you to span longer distances with a thinner slab. they are sometimes used in condos or other multi-family type homes ... or where it is beneficial due to seismic activity. in most parts of the country it is rare to have them in residential.
these are used where structural slabs are required - for instance, a typical residential slab on grade with wire mesh in it, really isn't considered a structural slab. post tensioned concrete slabs are used to span a distance between columns or foundation piers - we use them a lot in hotel raised floor construction (my experience with them) and this method allows you to span longer distances with a thinner slab. they are sometimes used in condos or other multi-family type homes ... or where it is beneficial due to seismic activity. in most parts of the country it is rare to have them in residential.
restart
Well-Known Member
Sure, in 2 months when my garage is done. They
Are extremely ugly, I made them Years ago from some crap scrap wood and casters I had lying around. 2 one foot pces of 2x6 going this way, and 2 that way. Screw,nail glue together, your choice. Get the best caster s you can afford. Through bolt or lag bolt them on, you are done.
Here is a pic of the 'concept'. If you google home made car casters or similar you will see a bunch. You can also buy fairly small car moving dollies
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/969/182/550/550182969_645.jpg
I was working on a 70s '02 and needed to get it sideways in my garage. They come in handy for working on cars without wheels and I also use them for moving diffs, trannys, welders, all kinds of heavy metal.
If you,look through this thread you will see an engine come out of a coupe on jack stands, also he has a nifty lift, in the first page. Fwiw
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10146&page=4
HTH, cheers
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Bwana
Well-Known Member
They are also used a lot around Houston, or any other area with high clay content in the soil. The clay expands and contracts significantly and so will crack the slab. The post tensioning keeps the concrete in compression so it "floats" across areas of non-conformity due to clay.
Your area is mostly rock so it's probably not used there.
Thanks for the information, I think it's kind of important since lots of us have or want to have lifts and we should definitely check if there is a possibility of dying prematurely due to ignorance, although that's often the case with humans.
restart
Well-Known Member
oK, you probly noticed I asked Peter that question cuz I figured he had it at hand. He replied 28 inches. It's possible to drag it out on a board or a couple of those flexible plastic toboggans. So I am going to say you need to get the nose at least 30 inches up if you can drag it. I have done that but furniture dollies make it a lot easier, but of course, in that case, you need more than 30 inches.
I have a stamp right at the opening of my middle garage door. See attached. Assume it is code to stamp if you do indeed have post tension.
Attachments
Thanks. I'm getting a quote/consultation on concrete x-ray. Will see whats what. My neighbor mentioned a quote for $2500 to have his whole garage floor x-rayed! If it's that much you have to ask if $5k is worth it to get the lift installed. Figure if I get it in I can raise the car approx 70+ inches.
So lets say it's $5k all in to get a two post with 70+ inches of lift. Is it worth it?
Final thought
Unless you plan on doing this more than once or twice you would probably be better off just pulling it from the top. However
Advantage Lifts sell a 4 post that does not have to be anchored and for 2700.00 if you install yourself you can get a lift that will allow you to do the operation with ease and there are attachments that allow you to get the wheels up and do anything that a 2-post lift will do. Also, if you no longer need it after a year or so it can be re-sold and you could get most of your money back. The lifts are really quality and I have inspected them at the Austin Mecum auction- really cool and the owner of the company is a very nice guy. Here is a link http://advantagelifts.us/
Unless you plan on doing this more than once or twice you would probably be better off just pulling it from the top. However
Advantage Lifts sell a 4 post that does not have to be anchored and for 2700.00 if you install yourself you can get a lift that will allow you to do the operation with ease and there are attachments that allow you to get the wheels up and do anything that a 2-post lift will do. Also, if you no longer need it after a year or so it can be re-sold and you could get most of your money back. The lifts are really quality and I have inspected them at the Austin Mecum auction- really cool and the owner of the company is a very nice guy. Here is a link http://advantagelifts.us/
restart
Well-Known Member
hi peter, did you here us talking ant you over here....that lift is 96" his minimum clearance spot is 98". That may work. I have mine unbolted down so I an move it around, even take it outside. So that would save him then trouble of x-Ray and drilling....
I think....if it is not a financial hardship a lift is absolutely worth whatever it takes to achieve.
Some companies make lifts to order. You may be able to get a custom height 4 post. I got a extra-narrow,extra-tall, extra-short 4 poster. Sort of a reverse super size....
....that lift is 96" his minimum clearance spot is 98". That may work. I have mine unbolted down so I an move it around, even take it outside. So that would save him then trouble of x-Ray and drilling....I think....if it is not a financial hardship a lift is absolutely worth whatever it takes to achieve.
Some companies make lifts to order. You may be able to get a custom height 4 post. I got a extra-narrow,extra-tall, extra-short 4 poster. Sort of a reverse super size....
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How cool would it be to have a lift that you could push out into your driveway on a sunny California day and park your e9 up about 3 feet just to wash and wax her. I see the neighborhood kids chattering back and forth and going home to get their moms or dads to come look at it. "California Dreamin'"
restart
Well-Known Member
Make that 6 and a half feet and a beautiful Canadian west coast afternoon ...
I might be a little dense here, but wouldnt 2 post be a better solution for dropping subframes/motor+trans etc? Assume the full crossbars of the 4 post would restrict you? No?
restart
Well-Known Member
Ok, fine, you may be dense but I am more dense:grin:
Absolutely, 2 poster better for dropping subframe. I was so busy thinking about a low lift that didn't require drilling, I lost sight of that part. It's possible to do with a four poster, involves driving under the lift and using straps to lift the car. Seems popular with the Porsche group.
Scissor lift?
.
Attachments
Estimate for concrete scan is $700 for 4x 2'x2' areas. Going to call Danmar next and see if I can get a printed template of their maxjax base and see if the drill pattern can work with what lies beneath.
Heading out to Spain soon. So hope to get scanned this week.
Heading out to Spain soon. So hope to get scanned this week.
Bwana
Well-Known Member
If you get anywhere close, say hi to deQ for all of us if you have a chance :wink:
Curiosity
I am finding this a very interesting thread because I have a 2 post lift and I can do pretty much any type of repair with it. There are obvious advantages and disadvantages with 2 & 4 post lifts but I'm trying to decide what I would do if I did not have a lift and was in the market for one. After a few hours of research over the last week or so and talking to Tony over at Advantage Lifts my feeble thoughts are as follows; I do not like the idea of using straps to lift the body using a 4 post lift, and regardless it would not lift the car high enough to remove the engine by my measurements so after looking at lots of You Tube videos on all sorts of lifts I have come to the conclusion that for our cars, if we are going to perform most operations we will definitely need a 2 post lift. A 4-post is great for increasing parking space and doing exhaust work and clutches and drivelines as well as fluid changes and if that is all you plan on doing then a 4-post could be the best choice since you can use it as a 3rd parking space and do the minor operations. You will not be able to "safely/easily" drop the engine out the bottom, remove struts and wheels remove the rear end and get into some of the tough spots to scrape or do welding even with the attachments that lift the car off the wheel ramps. Regarding which lift you purchase there are way too many out there for me to decide but I am assuming one quality lift is as good as another.
-Just my observations.
I am finding this a very interesting thread because I have a 2 post lift and I can do pretty much any type of repair with it. There are obvious advantages and disadvantages with 2 & 4 post lifts but I'm trying to decide what I would do if I did not have a lift and was in the market for one. After a few hours of research over the last week or so and talking to Tony over at Advantage Lifts my feeble thoughts are as follows; I do not like the idea of using straps to lift the body using a 4 post lift, and regardless it would not lift the car high enough to remove the engine by my measurements so after looking at lots of You Tube videos on all sorts of lifts I have come to the conclusion that for our cars, if we are going to perform most operations we will definitely need a 2 post lift. A 4-post is great for increasing parking space and doing exhaust work and clutches and drivelines as well as fluid changes and if that is all you plan on doing then a 4-post could be the best choice since you can use it as a 3rd parking space and do the minor operations. You will not be able to "safely/easily" drop the engine out the bottom, remove struts and wheels remove the rear end and get into some of the tough spots to scrape or do welding even with the attachments that lift the car off the wheel ramps. Regarding which lift you purchase there are way too many out there for me to decide but I am assuming one quality lift is as good as another.
-Just my observations.
Another thought about lifts
I am thinking of a 4 post lift for my garage.
It does not require drilling into the floor.
For my purposes, the lift will be more for winter storage than for projects but I do like the idea of lifting the car up about 4 feet to wax the lower panels!
So, for 4 - 5 months of storage, I have been told the 4 post with drive on ramps is a better choice than a 2 post where the wheels are left dangling.
I am thinking of a 4 post lift for my garage.
It does not require drilling into the floor.
For my purposes, the lift will be more for winter storage than for projects but I do like the idea of lifting the car up about 4 feet to wax the lower panels!
So, for 4 - 5 months of storage, I have been told the 4 post with drive on ramps is a better choice than a 2 post where the wheels are left dangling.
Nice Stan, and I do not want to really recommend one brand over another but the Advantage lift was made really well in my op. and I did get a chance to crawl around it and check out the construction which I thought superior to other lifts.
Ski Coach has a Titan Lift. I checked it out and it looks pretty nice.