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Bringing a '74 back up to her intended glory.
- Thread starter Bmachine
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Also commonly referred to as "backer rod". Brilliant idea.
Rek
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the credit. I used 10mm diameter but ensure it is closed cell meaning that water cannot penetrate. I trimmed the ends and glued them with contact adhesive, otherwise they fly off at higher speeds.
In the "better late than never" category, I finally replaced the old window gutter channels. Since they are NLA, I used the replacements from steele rubber that were suggested by another forum member (whose name I sadly forgot):
https://www.steelerubber.com/unbeaded-rubber-channel-70-3572-58
They fit perfectly and, so far, work just as well. Now, unlike the uber strong original ones, these are unreinforced rubber. So they will definitely not last another 50 years. But, for the time being, they do a fine job.
https://www.steelerubber.com/unbeaded-rubber-channel-70-3572-58
They fit perfectly and, so far, work just as well. Now, unlike the uber strong original ones, these are unreinforced rubber. So they will definitely not last another 50 years. But, for the time being, they do a fine job.
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I also decided to clean the center grille. Removing the vertical slats is relatively easy but somewhat delicate.
Each slat is held in place by 2 things at the top: A little tab that is bent down. And the tiny section of the slat that protrude through the frame is twisted to keep it from falling out.
1. Clean the points where the slats penetrate the outer frame at the top and the bottom. They will need to be able to slide in and out easily
2. VERY carefully bend the little retaining tab upward so it aligns with the rest of the slat. These are most likely brittle with age and were never designed to bend more than once so they are easy to break
3. With a pair of pliers, you "untwist", or "flatten" the part of the slat that came through the frame
4. Slide the whole slat downward until you can take it out.
5. Number each slat so they can go back in the same spot they came out of
Each slat is held in place by 2 things at the top: A little tab that is bent down. And the tiny section of the slat that protrude through the frame is twisted to keep it from falling out.
1. Clean the points where the slats penetrate the outer frame at the top and the bottom. They will need to be able to slide in and out easily
2. VERY carefully bend the little retaining tab upward so it aligns with the rest of the slat. These are most likely brittle with age and were never designed to bend more than once so they are easy to break
3. With a pair of pliers, you "untwist", or "flatten" the part of the slat that came through the frame
4. Slide the whole slat downward until you can take it out.
5. Number each slat so they can go back in the same spot they came out of
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In an ideal world, you would have these re-anodized. Option 2 (admittedly less perfect) is to paint them and clear coat for protection.
I taped some angled aluminium bars on some cardboard that would keep the slats in a good position for painting
I taped some angled aluminium bars on some cardboard that would keep the slats in a good position for painting
The countdown to Monterey 2025 has started. As such it is time to attend to a large number of seemingly small items on the list.
First I was faced with the dreaded broken horn pin syndrome. Those things were never that strong to begin with but being a tall skinny thing held by two screws at the bottom makes it a good candidate for beheading. Especiallyif you have to remove and reinstall the steering wheel frequently as you do when doing lots of work on and around the dash.
Instead of buying yet another new one, I decided to epoxy this one back together and then design and 3D print a little “exoskeleton” to beef it up
This then slips over the existing pin and acts as a strong reinforcement
'
First I was faced with the dreaded broken horn pin syndrome. Those things were never that strong to begin with but being a tall skinny thing held by two screws at the bottom makes it a good candidate for beheading. Especiallyif you have to remove and reinstall the steering wheel frequently as you do when doing lots of work on and around the dash.
Instead of buying yet another new one, I decided to epoxy this one back together and then design and 3D print a little “exoskeleton” to beef it up
This then slips over the existing pin and acts as a strong reinforcement
'
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This is great.
tygaboy
Well-Known Member
Nice job, Bo! The 3D printing tech really opens up a whole new world of solutions, eh?
Looks like it might be the wrong color though.
nothing a little SEM color coat <satin black> wouldn't cure. nice job Bo