If I weren't looking at your photos, I would have thought that was my dash wood. Identical condition, I think.
Chamonix 3.0CS Restoration
- Thread starter HB Chris
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I am stripping off all trim to prepare for paint. Check out these thingies holding on some of the trim. Innovative maybe, cheap and frustrating.
Had the evaporator checked and new expansion valve installed. Not much fun trying to get the plastic box back together though.
Chris, Those dash ends look fairly typical and mostly intact.. I would try and work some wood glue between the layers with a thin blade and carefully prying pieces apart. It is hard to tell from the photos but you might need add some patch layers to the inside of the curve (veneer side). Alternatively, you could send it off to Budapest and have Bela work his magic....
Thx Sven, Paul Cain has worked his magic on them. I used a guy in San Ysidro who did my NK wood and will likely use him again, he does 60s/70s MB dash and console wood and it is stunning.
Your dash wood is a bit better than mine was. When the old veneer is removed, there will be bits left but also divots in the substrate (backing). Get rid of all veneer, fill divots with wood filler and get a smooth surface ready for new veneer. The actual subtrate has to be re-glued layer by layer. Once done, go over it with lindseed oil to re-oil the wood (wood glues are poly based so once dry, it wont be bothered by the oil). Some layers will be paper thin, have patience........or send to Bella.
I used 3M glue-backed veneer, easy to cut even against the grain with an Xacto knife, no chatter. Big curves require wetting first, then bending. I left the protective paper over the backing on when wetting and bending.
I used 3M glue-backed veneer, easy to cut even against the grain with an Xacto knife, no chatter. Big curves require wetting first, then bending. I left the protective paper over the backing on when wetting and bending.
These last few posts are very encouraging. I had assumed I'd need to completely rebuild my dash wood - but it seems that some careful repair and build-up will be more than sufficient. I am looking forward to that work (some day).
Coupe is totally devoid of trim, dash and console, headed to body shop on Monday. A present arrived today from Paul Baker.
Are the spring rates and height posted somewhere and a comparison to others? I did a quick search and could not find data. I gather the spring rate is variable based on coil set up.
Spring rates are not posted anywhere, and Paul is keeping them to himself:
e9coupe.com
PBCM lowering springs
I've been through the European offerings for lowering springs (Jaymic / H&R) and have finally found my optimum solution in springs manufactured by Paul Baker, who may of you in the UK will know for his restoration business, and his knowledge of E9's and CSL's. Previous springs were either too...
e9coupe.com
@Christopher in the UK has them and posted a pic and loves them so I bought a set along with @OCCoupe and @wkohler.
Here's yet another thing I didn't know about until now. With a set of Carl Nelson lower springs sitting on the shelf, is there a comparison (commentary or pictorial) anywhere of the two?
I bought a set from Paul too. I have wanted progressive springs for a while, there are not a lot of options out there, and as Chris notes, reports on these have been quite good.
I can measure for you. I just think Carl’s springs are too stiff.
That's interesting. I may want to look into these Paul Baker springs.
Send me the heightThat's interesting. I may want to look into these Paul Baker springs.
I tested them at CK before installing the B&G springs which I installed.
Sorry in advance for side-tracking Chris' thread. Here's probably too much information about a set of Carl Nelson springs I purchased two or three years ago. I bought these while at Carl's shop in La Jolla, but had him ship them to me. They've been in the box he sent them in since. When I opened up the box and pulled the springs out today, I was sad to see that there is some abrasion on at least one of the springs and it has rusted. I doubt this could happen while living in my garage - I keep the humidity below 20% year 'round. This is evidenced by the bare metal chassis that lives in the same space and doesn't rust.
As for evaluating what the ride height might be with these springs installed on a car, I suspect there are aspects of the metallurgy and tempering that affect the outcome. But here are some basic measurements of the springs unloaded/relaxed for comparison sake.
Front Springs = about 5.4 coils:
Height = 9 11/16" or 247mm:
Diameter of coils including the powder coat/paint finish (metric, fraction, and decimal):
Rear Springs - about 7.8 coils:
Height = 11 7/8" or 301mm:
Diameter of coils including the powder coat/paint finish (metric, fraction, and decimal):
I’m not sure it’s a fair comparison out of the car as Carl’s springs are linear rate springs and Paul’s are progressive. The latter would generally ride better with two different spring rates all else being equal. What we don’t know is at ride height the compression and how many of the lower rate coils bind. I have to say I’m pretty interested to see how they are.