Chamonix 3.0CS Restoration

I’ve been busy cleaning and painting. Wheel wells were cleaned with wooden handle wire brushes and a scraper then prepped for paint. After using Chamonix base coat in a rattle can which took two coats didn’t achieve my desired results, I listened to Paul Cain and bought white DTM primer with a catalyst and reducer which I applied with a 4” foam roller and a cheap brush. Black undercoat is now invisible, over this I shot single stage rattle can Chamonix and the results are outstanding. Front struts are done and painted with the factory yellow brush strokes, strut bearings cleaned and repacked with grease, backing plates powder coated, calipers yellow zinced and rebuilt, new control arms, tie rods, idler arm bushing and track rod ready to install along with new brake hoses and tension strut bushing, subframe painted, rear springs painted as well. I just have to decide which shocks to use in the rear, the current red Konis, a used pair of Boge from Paul or find some gently used Bilsteins to match the front. I still need to paint front frame rails and finish the subframe and then install everything and get it back on the ground. I cleaned the spare tire well of the nasty black undercoating by using charcoal lighter fluid and a brush, I shot some paint but it still needs more work as you can see.

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Hello Chris,
I'm in need of some Chamonix paint in a rattle can, Do you mind sharing you source?
Thank You
 
The Malaga car has B&G progressive lowering springs in front and Ground Control springs and adjustable perches in the rear, tires are Conti Extreme Contact DW. If I go 14” I will explore Michelin and Pirelli only I think. I don’t like the Vredstein look and Dunlop were never known as a long wearing tire. Michelin just introduced a 175-14 tire which is a bit skinny and my friend Loid received a set for free for showing his e9 in the Michelin tent at Legends this week.

Here the CN36 is also available in 185/70 VR14, just as apossibility. Very early E3 and E9 were specified with that according to the fist leaflets written on a typewriter…
 
Here the CN36 is also available in 185/70 VR14, just as apossibility. Very early E3 and E9 were specified with that according to the fist leaflets written on a typewriter…
Interesting, the tire stickers list 175-HR14 and 195/70-VR14 only. The 185 would have a slightly smaller circumference.
 
Sorry, false alarm. I rechecked the compendium handed out to the press on 9/25/68 and it only states the following sizes:

2500: 175 HR 14
2800: 185 HR 14 or DR70 HR 14
2800CS: 175 HR 14

Of course, this was just in the beginning before anyone outside had driven the cars, so eventually we all got to know the 175 HR 14 and DR70 HR 14 for the first batch and lated on the added size 195/70. Does anyone know for sure when the DR70 was replaced by 195/70? (the latter being slightly narrower than the former…)

The CN36 is however available in 185/70 VR14 if someone would like it. I think that the owner of the riviera 2800 which attended the Elba-event in Italy earlier this year, fitted the Pedrini-rims with this very type and size.
 
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This Thread shows a Feb and Apr 1970 sticker.

 
This Thread shows a Feb and Apr 1970 sticker.

That‘s a very good help in order to learn more about these details. Thank you!
 
It’s been a while but today we installed the five speed with the help of Jorge who works for Rey Rivera down in Capistrano. It took eight hours as we had to search for some guibo bolts which in the end we didn’t need. We had a lift obviously and I’ve done it without a lift but it is a job I don’t enjoy. I waited until Malaga departed and now I can make some progress.
 
8 hours for a trans swap / upgrade to a 5 spd. is blisteringly quick. You must have had every part on the floor? Congrats!
 
Hi Chris, I have a question, I start my new project E9, next week paint will be completed, it is inka orange 2800cs I have complete setup for turbo what do you think about turbo on a 3.2 liter engine or what size of engine works better with turbo on it and what part should be upgraid along with turbo. thank you in advance
 
Hi Chris, I have a question, I start my new project E9, next week paint will be completed, it is inka orange 2800cs I have complete setup for turbo what do you think about turbo on a 3.2 liter engine or what size of engine works better with turbo on it and what part should be upgraid along with turbo. thank you in advance
Chris is THE turbo expert. I can't wait to see what expertise he shares!
 
How do I even begin to repond here? Stan, next I began to strip down the dash and a/c box to work on electrics and to redo the wood. I just haven’t been very motivated but Paul tuned my carbs a couple of days ago and they are running very nicely.

Turbos are something I have very little knowledge of, except I once owned a 1982 Volvo 244 GLT Turbo, what a great car. @Ives can share what he has done with his turbo install, it was a very challenging task.
 
Anytime I tackle a routine project I proclaim it to be the worst task ever. I thought the a/c box would be one of those but as I did it years ago on the Malaga coupe it wasn’t so bad. The instruments however is always a challenge. Now I forget how to remove the binnacle, two Phillips screws underneath removed, nuts on the long horizontal bolts removed, I seem to remember it being attached to the upper dash, but does it? Grab rail already off.
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Hi Chris
I am not sure the LHD and RHD dashboard is the same but maybe have a look at my one .
 
Yes Chris. Two Phillips screws from back edge of dash pad attach the binnacle cover to the dash pad. But with the grab bar off you can pull the wood instrument cluster out from the front without unclipping the dash pad.
 

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Yep the binnacle is held by two horizontal screws recessed in the binnacle and must come off with the upper dash. Not bad for a day’s work. Q: is this wood too far gone to be veneered?
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