CSL Barn Find 2285251

Discussion in 'E9 Projects and Restorations' started by Wes, Jan 26, 2019.

  1. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    No way will that get the bolt on the top right as you cant get sufficient access. I might get better access once the pedal box is out of the way?
    Perhaps I could get it with one of funny looking ring spanners you showed earlier, particularly the one near the starter motor?
    Anyone done this on a RHD car before as I suspect this makes a difference.
     
  2. Belgiumbarry

    Belgiumbarry Well-Known Member

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    indeed Wes, that will be the difference…. didn't realise you work on a RHD …. i only did it on LHD of course....
     
  3. Markos

    Markos Parts Mule Staff Member Site Donor $$

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    Hook up your motor to your cherry picker. Completely remove the motor mounts. Next lower the motor past the point of the motor mounts.
     
  4. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    I might run down a set of those spanners and give it a try. What's their technical name?
     
  5. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    I'm planning on lifting the motor out. I've removed the nuts from the pair of bushed mounts toward the front of the motor along with the gear box, so this should take care of the transmission mount?
    Have also pulled radiator, alternator, high pressure pump and oil filter down left hand side of block. On the right the wiper bottle, coil, ignition wiring etc.
    This should give me enough wriggle room for the lift. If I can get the bell housing off even more room?

    Anybody else had experience in pulling vs dropping the motor?
     
  6. Belgiumbarry

    Belgiumbarry Well-Known Member

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    half moon wrench
     
  7. Markos

    Markos Parts Mule Staff Member Site Donor $$

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    My comment about removing the mounts and lowering the engine was to enable you to reach the bellhousing bolts. :)
     
  8. Belgiumbarry

    Belgiumbarry Well-Known Member

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    don't know Markos….. as now , the engine will be resting at the back on the frame/steering rod…. ? so it won't lower whatever you do in front ? Yes, if it rotates and more acces from above that way ?
     
  9. sfdon

    sfdon Well-Known Member

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    Wes- I’ve done this dozens of times, it will reach with the right tool set up.
    You need 3 feet of extensions. Use a helper to set the socket on the bolt heads by feel.
    Use the swivel. Use a long ratchet.
     
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  10. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Another day down on the car.
    Managed to get those last two bell-housing bolts but for the life of me it still wont budge. What am I missing here?
    It looks like the motor may well come out with the bell-housing still on as it looks like I've the wriggle room now the radiator is gone?

    Also got the pedal box out, brake lines removed from the engine bay, fed the wiring harness back into the cabin and dropped the fan to give me more room.

    Getting pretty close to being ready to lift out the engine.
     
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  11. sfdon

    sfdon Well-Known Member

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  12. sfdon

    sfdon Well-Known Member

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    A991D5D0-96FB-4C62-9F8E-26A279AAF948.jpeg 7 bolts
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2019
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  13. Markos

    Markos Parts Mule Staff Member Site Donor $$

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    My experience would go just like this had I tried. I’m sure folks on here can pull the bellhousing in an hour, but that isn’t me. Thanks for sharing your paint and success. One is the things that used to bother me when working on jeeps is that many of the technical owners would exaggerate the time and ease of repairs. I don’t see much of that here but all experiences may vary. It is good to capture “real world” experiences. Keep it up!

     
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  14. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Was supposed to go SCUBA diving today but it rained all night so decided Plan B was to put in a full day on the car. Today I had both apprentices.
    First job was to assemble the engine crane we hired, talk about overkill for the job.

    IMG_4328.jpg

    The plan was to lift out the motor with the bell-housing still attached. If it turned out there wasn't enough room in the engine bay for that I'd lift the engine forward first so I could get at the last two bolts holding the housing. First things first though was a small lift to get it off the tow mounts. HOT TIP - undo the mounts from underneath the car. That way when you lift the studs don't snag. Only realised it was a problem when the car started lifting instead of the engine.

    IMG_4329.jpg

    Bugger. Not enough room to swing it out. After a bit of mucking around the housing came away with no troubles.
    Let the engine back down, reset the chains and off we go again.

    IMG_4333.jpg

    Now we are cooking with gas..

    IMG_4336.jpg

    Victory.. Lola is blurry as she isn't actually on the ground...

    IMG_4340.jpg

    Bit more room in here now.

    IMG_4343.jpg

    After some jiggling the engine is now on 'the pile.'

    IMG_4342.jpg

    We finished out the day dropping out the tail shaft, fuel lines and pump along with the hydraulic line that runs the length of the tunnel under the car along with the last few things left in the engine bay. I plan on pulling the wiring loom from the brain tomorrow I think @Markos has a how to on his part out thread? The car is scheduled to go to the body works in two weeks. We will leave her as a roller until it gets there.
     
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  15. sfdon

    sfdon Well-Known Member

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    A good days work!
    Can’t wait to see the cleaned up version!
     
  16. Marco 54

    Marco 54 Active Member Site Donor $

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    That young man has effortless power - he has levitated both the engine and little Lola at the same time.;)
     
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  17. aearch

    aearch Well-Known Member Site Donor

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    whoops missed this one
    glad u have it out ill follow from now on
    the whole unit will come out w/ the trans
    i set my m5 and 5sp together and i goes right in
    u did the only thing slope and then reset the angle.
     
  18. Markos

    Markos Parts Mule Staff Member Site Donor $$

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    Hi @Wes,

    Your days of referencing my posts are
    coming to an end. I shall be referencing your sometime in the very distant future when I am
    actually putting mine back together.

    I did write about pulling the brain wiring. Just get the brain plug inline with the frame rail and wrap it up tight to prevent gunk getting into the plug. There is an access hole in the passenger footwell which helps. Don’t looks the cover, they are NLA. The brain wiring goes into the frame via a hole by the ignition coil. That is where you pull from. If you hit a snag just push a bit and try again.

    BTW - Only CSI’s and CSL’s have that frame rail hole. It is one of 7 body difference that I can think of, excluding the sheetmetal gauge.
     
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  19. Wes

    Wes Active Member Site Donor $

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    Thanks mate. I was actually curious on how you detach the brain from the cable, before you feed it back.
     
  20. Markos

    Markos Parts Mule Staff Member Site Donor $$

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    I’d check the thread but I think it just has a typical tab that fits into a hole on brain receptacle. @sfdon would know, but regardless it should be self evident once you unscrew the brain.
     
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