CSL Barn Find 2285251

More progress down at the shop.
Front shock assembly all now back together and ready to go back in the car.
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Front air dam trial fitted and all tidied up. This isn't a new one but came with the car and had quite some age to it.
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Front sub-frame all finished as well.

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Simon spent quite a bit of time tidying up the front end as we noticed the alignment was off on a couple of things such as the belt trim, grill and lights.
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We've re-applied seam sealer back around the boot and engine bay as it was originally as well. Next steps will be applying stone guard around the valances ahead of spraying the wheel wells, boot, engine bay ahead of the rest of the car. Then we really start on the climb to the finish of this stage in getting her back on her wheels ahead of re-installing the trim.
 
Markos said:
Man you are moving fast!
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We aren't really aiming for that but it seems to be a bonus of some luck and good planning. I think the trick is to be always planning 3 steps ahead so parts are ordered ahead of time and you know what order you want to progress the work in. For example, we knew when we wanted to pull the sub-frames and what work needed to occur on them and the rest of the car when they were pulled down. I also had all the replacement parts ordered ahead of time so my diff mechanic was in a position to start work as soon as it was out of the car. I certainly don't claim to be an expert here but planning out how you will pull down the car, do the work(s) and then re-build saves so much going over old ground and associated loss of time (and usually money too).
 
Haven't posted for a little while as been flat out with work and family. Been some solid progress with the boot, engine bay and wheel arches now having had their final painting.
The exterior of the car just needs the top coat, as does the hanging panels. Simon can't paint these until the car is back on its feet as we need to move it out of the spray booth!

We've been stating to put things back into the car, which is always nice. First in was the re-conditioned heater, closely followed by the pedal box.
In the event I couldn't remember how something went back together we were able to cheat by looking at a past exam paper (parked out the front), I knew there was a reason I had two cars..



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We then turned our attention to getting the braking system back in. Re-conditioned boosters and new lines.

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By way of contrast, here's what I started with. A slight improvement..

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Under the car we've run all of the brake lines and re-installed the fuel lines and pump.
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Front axle is all back in as well:

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We are just waiting on the rear sub-frame to come back to us from our specialist mechanic, should be here this week. Then we can get the car back on it's feet.
Really happy with how we are progressing. Once we get the paintwork finished I think we will really accelerate away as our spare bedroom is now literally bursting with new and re-conditioned pieces ready to go back in the car.
 
stphers said:
Are all the RHD brake booster colored blue? They look really good
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I think they were. There were traces of original paint that was very similar to this. I bought a re-conditioned pair from Jaymic who sent them looking like that.
 
Wes said:
Thanks mate.
The body work and trim will ideally all be done by the end of the year.
Aiming to just have motor, gearbox, exhaust re-condition and related install to complete early next year.
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Bloody hell you are fast mate. You’ll need a new project soon enough.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
More progress this week.
Fuel tank back in the car after a full re-condition and installation of a new sensor unit.
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Spent the morning putting the full rear sub-frame assembly back together. Every piece of this has been re-conditioned or replaced.
Managed to put one piece back on the wrong way around. Didn't realise until we tried to fit it. Any guesses as to what it is?
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Looks a bit better than when it came out.
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After some jiggling the subframe was back under the car and we turned our attention to the rear shocks.
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Getting these in isn't the most fun job around as you need to compress the in order to swing into place. Also helps to have a couple of friends around to sit in the boot once they are in place. At the end of today the car is now a roller and more complete than when it arrived at Simon's shop 5 months ago.

This week should see the rear brake assembly go back in along with a few more parts in the engine bay. Next weekend we will put in some of the dash assembly.
We can then move the car out of the spray booth and turn our attention to the hanging panels.

Moving forward we have decided that the engine/gear box work will be brought forward so we can install before we finish painting the outside of the car. The reasoning here is we have formed the view it's better not to have the entire car in top coat before the engine goes in as mechanics, electricians and who knows who else will all be working on the car and the probability of damaging the paint/body is high.

So pleased with our progress and the quality of the work. Onward and upward!
 
Gas tank sending unit might be from a carbed coupe? It has the pipe for the mechanical pump, be sure you seal it up or you will have fuel all over your trunk.
 
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Things are slowing up on the car a bit as we move into the next phase of the restoration.
Simon is now working on mounting the roof hoop and boot spoiler ahead of getting those panels finished.
The car will then effectively come to a halt until the engine is ready to be installed.

Trial fitting roof hoop:

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Boot spoiler. Simon says this is possibly the most fun part of the work to date - NOT..
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Next order of business was to get the motor from storage and down to the mechanic. I'm very lucky to have a BMW master mechanic working with me on this.
First things first, jiggle it onto the trailer for the 50km trip. Lola doing her 'Emoji Face.'
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Locked and loaded:
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Now the thing that's been terrifying me is that the motor has been sitting laid up since 1983 and I'd no idea what it looked like inside. That said I knew it wasn't seized and still contained oil so fingers' crossed.

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Under the rocker cover looked pretty promising as to the condition.

Once the head came off and we are still looking good-ish. Bit of carbon on top of number two cylinder but otherwise it's spotless in there.

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The sump also looks really good too.
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The bores all look surprisingly good with no evidence of corrosion or pitting. Cylinder 2 does have a shadow on the bore just above BDC that you can just feel with your finger nail. My mechanic thinks it would be fine as the engine appears to have minimal wear. However, given we are this far in we will get a second opinion from an engine machinist as to if they think we should re-hone and replace the rings while we are here. Be keen to hear the Forum's thoughts on this.
This week will see us knock out the welsh plugs and send the head off for inspection/testing. We couldn't see any cracking but want to be sure in addition to hardness testing. Depending on the view of the machinist we may also hot dip the block if it has to be stripped right down.
 
Hi – for what is worth, I’m just going through an engine rebuild right now.



Not sure how much you are going to do…. Mine is a full blown rebuild.

Do not despair if your head is out of shape- cracked – porous etc – there are specialist company’s out there that can mend the worst-case ones…



My head was toast and I came across a company called modus engineering (UK) who have done a loads of M30 heads who are resurrecting it! – mine was cracked etc etc … they are in the process of mending it and putting new valve seats and guides as part of the mending…

Although the head will be pressure tested by them my engine builder is going to then send it off for some sort of process that will ensure there is no porosity in the head….

If you do have to re bore – you will not find any pistons off the shelf – but I can put you in contact with the guys who are making new ones for me – Forged – they are cheaper that the old new stock.

I have had a coating put on them as forged pistons until hot can be a little rattle until warm – this coating reduces the tolerance that forged pistons need – so are quite on cold start up

The biggest problem you will find is getting an oil pump housing (you can get the insides) you will not need to change if it not scratched inside the main housing but would be worth changing the insides.

I also got a new front vibration damper as mine will be balanced and set up on the dyno before going back in the car….



I could go on and on about it……… if you want more info please message me…. as I will be putting all this on my posting



Regards



Marc
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Thanks Marc.
I was talking to my mechanic today. We have agreed to send the head off for testing and if it comes back clear the same specialist will re-build all the top end.
As for the block we are pulling the head and getting that hot dipped. The jury is out on honing (the engine works will make the call) as there is no scoring at all, with some very light shadowing in number two cylinder only.
We will replace all the rings while in there along with any bearings or anything that gives the slightest hint of possibly causing trouble.
Will definitely be in touch in near future.
 
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