CSL restoration beginning

[Kizilsakal]

Second day

I counted 14 layers on one panel

Almost done with the exterior paint removal. just a little at the front and the back panels

 

[foxworth]

You should take the pic of those layers of paint and put it on a canvas for the garage for art! Amazing!

Good luck with the build

 

[Kizilsakal]

You should take the pic of those layers of paint and put it on a canvas for the garage for art! Amazing!

Good luck with the build

I did the canyons deliberately and took the picture because I enjoyed the look but making it into a poster didn't cross my mind. Great idea.
Good luck to you too on the build. It's one of the threads I am following with excitement.

 

[Kizilsakal]

Hi

Does anyone have a good photo of the floor pans? preferably something I can scale a drawing out of?

Thanks

 

[eriknetherlands]

The interior floor pan is for sale in sections from Walloth & Nesch, they sell them in 4 seperate "quarters".
A new seller recently popped up making half floor sections. Located in Poland I believe. recognisable by the baby blue colour of their panels. I tried to dig up some pics from the web, but haven;t found a link. I know that one member here used them on his car, but I fail to remember who.....

Neither of the 2 suppliers have floor panels that are exact copies. They all miss one or two depresssions, ridges, folds or openings. But the good thing is that at least something is available, and you can modify them if you are looking for that authentic look.

 

[Kizilsakal]

The interior floor pan is for sale in sections from Walloth & Nesch, they sell them in 4 seperate "quarters".
A new seller recently popped up making half floor sections. Located in Poland I believe. recognisable by the baby blue colour of their panels. I tried to dig up some pics from the web, but haven;t found a link. I know that one member here used them on his car, but I fail to remember who.....

Neither of the 2 suppliers have floor panels that are exact copies. They all miss one or two depresssions, ridges, folds or openings. But the good thing is that at least something is available, and you can modify them if you are looking for that authentic look.

Thanks Erik, but the problem with being in Turkey is every part I order for my cars get stuck at customs and takes a long time and money to get through. on the other hand advantage is you can get things done with very good craftsmanship and cheap if you find the right guy. so I'd rather have a go at these than buying from Europe. the originals have caps that you can open I guess but none of the repro ones have those. we might even try to make those.

 

[Kizilsakal]

Day 3 update

the rear is cleaned.
I will keep the bumper but fix the banged up parts also the curve will be the same with the boot lid
I don't know when it was done or by who but it is unique and I like the way it breaks the flat back side

 

[inovermyhead]

Wow, there was a lot of work that went into those flared arches at some stage, are you keeping them or going back to standard

 

[Kizilsakal]

Wow, there was a lot of work that went into those flared arches at some stage, are you keeping them or going back to standard

Yes, they definitely stay.

 

[Marc-M]

Hi Marc

Thank you for the PM.
I do want to go back to aluminium doors so any info about those would be great.
Is the aluminium shielded from steel to prevent galvanic corrosion? I also own a classic range rover that's how I know.

Harun

Hi


So, the question is - are the doors you have original CSL doors that have been re skinned in steel or CSI doors??

You will tell if they are the correct doors because when you take the steel skin off you will see a pressing that runs across the top – if its steel you have csi doors its it like mine you have csl doors.

It does not make any different at all – but at least you will know if your doors are original.

OK the skins will require a section off aluminium stuck on to the existing skin behind the door hole – see photo – I will take a better one for you.

When I took the skins off there was a thin U shape barrier to stop the doors rotting away. see photo… I was going to either use insulating tape or – now this is an odd one, cut up the A4 plastic file dividers – they are cheap – they are a thin, but very heavy duty plastic….

The plastic skin separator that was folded around the edge of the door

 

[Kizilsakal]

Hi


So, the question is - are the doors you have original CSL doors that have been re skinned in steel or CSI doors??

You will tell if they are the correct doors because when you take the steel skin off you will see a pressing that runs across the top – if its steel you have csi doors its it like mine you have csl doors.

It does not make any different at all – but at least you will know if your doors are original.

OK the skins will require a section off aluminium stuck on to the existing skin behind the door hole – see photo – I will take a better one for you.

When I took the skins off there was a thin U shape barrier to stop the doors rotting away. see photo… I was going to either use insulating tape or – now this is an odd one, cut up the A4 plastic file dividers – they are cheap – they are a thin, but very heavy duty plastic….

The plastic skin separator that was folded around the edge of the door

Thanks Marc.
Here are a couple pictures of the doors interior. I haven't removed the skin. I will do that when I get the replacement skin.
does this look like a CSL door frame?
I'll take better pictures when I clean them.

 

[Kizilsakal]

todays updates.

Braces to keep the car square

I am trying to figure out which part to start first. changing the floor panels or the rockers?
I am guessing rockers first so that I have a strong new piece to connect the floor panels. any suggestions?

 

[Gransin]

I am trying to figure out which part to start first. changing the floor panels or the rockers?
I am guessing rockers first so that I have a strong new piece to connect the floor panels. any suggestions?

We replaced the rockers first and did the floor panels later for the reason you already mentioned, better to have fresh rockers before you weld in new floor panels.

Your project looks really interesting, I'm following! Keep it up.

Cheers,

 

[Marc-M]

Thanks Marc.
Here are a couple pictures of the doors interior. I haven't removed the skin. I will do that when I get the replacement skin.
does this look like a CSL door frame?
I'll take better pictures when I clean them.

Hard to tell - I guess the best way is see if a magnet sticks to it.......

 

[Kizilsakal]

Hard to tell - I guess the best way is see if a magnet sticks to it.......

the frame is not aluminium is it?

 

[Marc-M]

no that's steel - just the skin and the inner bit that goes at the top if the frame - as shown in the photos with arrows...you will tell as its pop riveted on....

 

[Wladek]

In my opinion that skin & top inner-outer sheet shown on photo's with arrows are aluminium. Corroded/rusted steel skins looks a little bit different.
That skin look more like galvanic corrosion (steel vs. aluminium) reacted in moisture.

 

[Kizilsakal]

We have put the braces in the car and started the body work with the transmission tunnel.
we will strengthen the rear suspension connection points and then put the car in a rotisserie which i made with a friend.

there are many points with stress fractures since the structural elements are in bad shape.
I will ad more support to differential mounting point as it seems to have damaged it's surroundings
Where else does the E9 needs strengthening? I remember seeing something between the front chassis arms and the fender and firewall.
I would like the car to be able to handle a little more horsepower than standard if I choose to play with the engine a little bit.

there was some previous repairs made to the car very poorly. flat floor panels are one of them.
also we do find some nice original panels in good shape as we dig more.

On the outside the difference between the original body modifications done in the 70's and the poor rust repairs done later can be seen easily

 

[Marc-M]

I have now taken off the door handle supports for the ally door skins

They are glued top and bottom with a epoxy type glue ( you will see grey glue at the bottom edge) and the sound proofing ( black) runs between the skin and the support – this also was adhered to the support.

You could make something that will do the job I guess – but they will need this put in as I think the skin will distort of no extra type of support is put in..

Kind regards

Marc

 

[Kizilsakal]

I have now taken off the door handle supports for the ally door skins

They are glued top and bottom with a epoxy type glue ( you will see grey glue at the bottom edge) and the sound proofing ( black) runs between the skin and the support – this also was adhered to the support.

You could make something that will do the job I guess – but they will need this put in as I think the skin will distort of no extra type of support is put in..

Kind regards

Marc

Thanks Marc.
great detail.