CSL Restoration

Discussion in 'E9 Projects and Restorations' started by Marc-M, Sep 7, 2016.

  1. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    The car has been dipped by SPL to remove all of the old paint – and when I have finished putting all the new sections it will be re dipped to remove all the paint on the new panels and a E coating put on.

    Then it will get its gloss paint and then Waxed at the end.

    That should keep the rust worm away.

    See

    http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/technical-process.html
     
  2. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    Welded in the B post bottom and then offered up the outer sill and looks like I have welded it on slightly wonky! – so I will have to sort that one out – I did offer it up before welding and looked spot on ….

    Have a look at the picture and you can see what I mean.

    However, I will do nothing yet until I put the door on.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Took a card template from the other side and its spot on regarding the position.



    Talking about the door – they have now got the soundproofing on and aluminium reinforcement for the door handles.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    The A post is screwed into position (well where I think it should be) and all will be revealed when I hang the door, I feel this will be a time-consuming job getting the sill and the door bottom gap correct.

    I will also have to offer up the front and rear wings – so lots to do….
     
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  3. Wladek

    Wladek Active Member

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    What is this yellow on the door skins? I also have aluminium doors so am very interested.
     
  4. Markos

    Markos Parts Hoarder Site Donor $

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    Question:

    Do the fenders sit on top of the outer rocker panel or underneath? Basically, should you see the fender seams on top of the outer rocker panel?
     
  5. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    It’s an aircraft 2 pack aluminium primer, I have a mate who procured me a small amount – they use in on these – so I guess it should be good for the CSL

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    The fenders ( or wings as we say ) sit on top of the rockers ( we call them sills) but there is a cover non structural rocker that goes over the whole lot I think with a polished trim... im not at that point yet and my car did not have them
     
  7. Markos

    Markos Parts Hoarder Site Donor $

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    Oh good. That is how mine are setup and I was wondering if it was restored incorrectly. My car was hit in the rear back in the early 90's. I'm pretty certain that the rear fenders were replaced. My outer rockers are bad. I haven't inspected the inners but I am operating under the assumption that a Marc-M style rocker repair is on the docket.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2017
  8. eriknetherlands

    eriknetherlands Active Member

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    Marc, your b post (grey) and sill (black) mating lines look good to me, well same as mine at least The 3 to 5 mm opening you seen running horizontally (from bottom left to center of picture )is as it should be. It is covered by the rear quarter panel , and that's again covered by the decorative black screw on trim panel with the chrome moulding clipped to it.
     

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    Last edited: Jun 14, 2017
  9. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    My plan worked! – I was trying to find a product that I could use as a barrier between the aluminium door skin and the steel door.

    It needed to be very thin – very strong and very flexible…….

    Pure Pvc is used in the production of Cushonfloor - and is the top wear layer and is only 0.3mm – and if you are careful you can with a bit of effort peel it off… so that’s what I did and stuck it to the door flange as a barrier.
    [​IMG]

    Skinning the door was very straightforward, but prior to skiing I applied a thin bead of Polyurethane seam sealer around the outside flange.

    Slowly taping the edges bit by bit, got the desired result and the door is now skinned.

    The A post was Tec screwed into what I felt was the right position together with the new Rocker (sill) – rear wing and front wing – door was put on and adjusted – and after only 10 mins ( wow) I have got the gaps half OK – (on other cars I have spent hours getting to this stage – but there are a good few hours left refining these latter in the build.)

    The main reason for this was to ensure the A post is in the correct position and I think it just needs a tweak.
    [​IMG]

    Its looks like a car - well not for long - it all will be coming off - many many times!


    [​IMG]
    All looking ok - lines up well
    [​IMG]
    Door need to go in - but its as far in as it will go - so a few tweeks with the A post
    [​IMG]
    Goodto see the old repair a t the bottom of the door was never done right and could not even get the right radius. But the rest of the door looks evenish!
    [​IMG]
    Again - gaps still need sorting but quite a big gap at the bottom- rocker to door bottom- need to get the cover sills ( I will now order) and I think these should reduce the gap... I hope - if not I have a problem!


    It has shown me is that I’m not so far away, and I should be able to get good even gaps without modifying the panels with the exception to the top front curved section on the leading edge of the door – see photo, will need to weld a bead on the wing edge to get nice and even.


    [​IMG]
     
  10. eriknetherlands

    eriknetherlands Active Member

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    Marc, looking at your pics again on a larger screen, I think i see what you mean. Your black sill does not line up with the curves of the B pillar; it seems to sit 2-3 mm too low. I think the shift does not come from the position of the b-pillar, but it looks to me like the top edge of the black sill is 2-3 mm too low.
    See image; could it be that:
    - the red line should be parallel to the green line?
    - the orange curve should be 2-3 mm higher, at the same height as the light green curve?
    This can be solved by raising the top of the black sill (orange straight line) to the height of the light green line). While keeping the lower edge of the sill at the same position, it just "opens up" the C section of the sill a bit more.

    I think it comes from the clamping; as the clamp is under an angle, it probably has pushed the black sill a bit down while thighening. Using a Cleco (like in my pics) or screw can help keeping the relative positions while installing a clamp to compress the layers prior to welding.

    And from your later post; yes the black decorative non structural sill does go in under the door. You need it indeed to set the height of the door.

    Hope this is helpful.
    Erik
     

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    Last edited: Jun 14, 2017
  11. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    Erik - thanks for that - will play with it tonight - and report back

    Thanks

    Marc
     
  12. Peter Coomaraswamy

    Peter Coomaraswamy Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    I wish I could add something of value to this thread but I am Americas' worst welder! I am really enjoying your build and hope I can contribute something in another section of the process.
     
  13. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    It’s been a few weeks now since I did anything, but I’m back on it!


    Having some fun and games getting gaps – but I will get there!

    In the meantime, welded in the repair sections to the rear wing – I have to say the repair sections are outstanding reproductions and needed no tweaking at all.

    Just need to planish out the welds and clean up, I may have a go with my English Wheel and see if that does the job.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




    A nice big gap to try and close! juggling the front wing, sills and doors is time consuming.

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    Well it’s been while since I have done anything major to the CSL – but now I’m back from holidays I’m ready to get stuck back in.

    I had temporarily mounted the RHS outer panels Inc. the sills to ensure that my panel gaps were something like, and with a bit of jiggling I got them something like, not perfect, but that will come later.

    I have decided not to fix any of the outside panels until all of the inside work is done, and only then shall I fix all the wings, bonnet, trunk and sills in one big outer skinning exercise, I think this will give me better gaps.

    I think this way I will get the best results.

    I will be trial fitting the panels as I go along, just like I have with the windscreen, just to keep a good check.

    Last night it was time to start on the other side, so took the front inner wing off and the nose section.

    These are in really bad shape; however, I have most of the panes for the front, I’m think I’m going to have to buy a new inner wheel arch – (shite – these are not cheap) as there has been so much botching done on it, as I’m not sure I can get it looking factory looking.

    Same story as the other side, Tin worm has worked its way through most of the structure and with a little help from the Plasma cutter, I have started nibbling my way through the Tin.

    I need to do some more re enforcements and some extra cross bracing, so today I will get some box section.

    [​IMG]
    Now that's what I call a botch up welding/ brazing job....must be 20 patches on it..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Just a little bit of work to do on the bulkhead! -
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Andy H

    Andy H New Member Site Donor

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    Hi Marc,

    I am missing your thread ?

    Have you given up

    I hope not

    Andy
     
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  16. Marc-M

    Marc-M Active Member

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    Hi Andy

    Ive not posted much, as I have not been able to get into my garage as im having a " all singing and dancing" one built - but its taking months - its even got underfloor heating - so I can spend even more time playing with cars..... im thinking of putting a bed in there when my wife falls out with me......

    I have also been lucky in that a "mate of a mate" told me about a car that was for sale - its been off the road for a while...
    It turns out to be a missing Allard - Called " Allard Special"- one of 12 built, pre war - and this one has not been seen for 40 years... - its the 2nd one built - the first one has long gone....so its the oldest Allard.....
    It was taken to bits in the early 70s and then the guy died - then was got by another guy - and he died - not the best looking car , but has load of history...

    its in need of total resto - but the CSL will be done first - ( but I have to say im finding it hard not to run the two together when I get into the new garage!)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Andy H

    Andy H New Member Site Donor

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    Great news, looking forward to your progress.
     
  18. sandhu

    sandhu Member Site Donor

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    Awesome work
     

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