Fixing that little rust spot...
- Thread starter eriknetherlands
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- restoration list
wow you realy spend time to restore even the bolts and nuts is tagged, it look like it will be nice restoration, not like me all day looking for bolts and nuts I should of do it like you did and I have very bad memory
Today I decided to see if I could make another part; the lead weight that is clamped to the inside of the door handle. I had one missing. Buying it somewhere and waiting for it takes too long...
Used some old roofing lead, a piece of angled aluminum, an old stainless pan and the wife away for an evening, I think I got the main shape right.
I did use a fresh air filter mask, lead is very harmful when inhaled.
First pic is the original part from the other door (with some felt backing).
I first purified the lead by melting it, and letting it drip down to the side; the debris and corroded film float (lead is heavy and pushes everything up), so that stays behind.
Then it is into the kitchen to heat it up and pour it in a mold.
The shape is actually pretty easy; a piece of 90 degree aluminum with to copper blocks to define the length. When setting the Alu profile at the correct angle, it makes one beautiful ingot.
Now all it needs is some shaping to get the size right.
What I show you isattempt 4...Edit attempt 5; ingot#4 was too thick, and it would have taken too long to shave it to it correct thickness. Recasting #4 into #5 took just ten minutes.
Used some old roofing lead, a piece of angled aluminum, an old stainless pan and the wife away for an evening, I think I got the main shape right.
I did use a fresh air filter mask, lead is very harmful when inhaled.
First pic is the original part from the other door (with some felt backing).
I first purified the lead by melting it, and letting it drip down to the side; the debris and corroded film float (lead is heavy and pushes everything up), so that stays behind.
Then it is into the kitchen to heat it up and pour it in a mold.
The shape is actually pretty easy; a piece of 90 degree aluminum with to copper blocks to define the length. When setting the Alu profile at the correct angle, it makes one beautiful ingot.
Now all it needs is some shaping to get the size right.
What I show you is
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Recast attempt 4 into #5, and finished the part by shaving it with a sharp chisel (works wonderfuly well!) and drilling the two holes.
Last pic shows the original next to the new part.
Edit- added a pic after sanding it nicely flat on a belt sander.
I modified the original part with 4 small screws to reattach the lead weight after I rezinced the door handle mechanism. This should also prevent it from falling off ever again. In hind sight; 4 screws is a bit much, 2 would have been good enough
Last pic shows the original next to the new part.
Edit- added a pic after sanding it nicely flat on a belt sander.
I modified the original part with 4 small screws to reattach the lead weight after I rezinced the door handle mechanism. This should also prevent it from falling off ever again. In hind sight; 4 screws is a bit much, 2 would have been good enough
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Today, after long procrastination, my neighbour helped me out to wrestle the engine+auto trans from the car. We have a leveller, but then the block wouldn't lift up high enough with it installed. So we just used straps.
It did scrape the engine bay in a few places, but no dents luckily. It gets repainted, so no worries there.
Not sure yet how we'll get it back in, as it'll be painted by then. Maybe i'll try the " drop the car over the engine " method.
It did scrape the engine bay in a few places, but no dents luckily. It gets repainted, so no worries there.
Not sure yet how we'll get it back in, as it'll be painted by then. Maybe i'll try the " drop the car over the engine " method.
