Patricia A. Mayer's 3.0 CS / Paul Cain's Fjord project / The 300 mile Test Drive / VIII / Final Punch List

I am currently experimenting in the above images with both an iphone12 and a Canon G5x. All the bluish hue images are off the Canon. So far the iphone yields better results and is more effortless. Thanks for noticing.
It's funny how much better pics taken with newish, high-end iphones and androids often come out when compared to dedicated digital cameras - especially when seen in screen resolutions and sizes. The dedicated camera can take better photos than the phones, but as you noted they make you work for it. Not sure why exactly, other than a supposition that a large amount of the resources of the amazingly powerful chips in these phones is being used to get white balance right. And that there is an assumption that the pics are going to be used at the aforementioned screen resolution, so prioritize what the pic looks like on the screen of the device that took it.

Anyway, you can probably get better results from the Canon if you manually set the white balance. This isn't something you would need to do very often as long as your lighting conditions don't change much in the shop. You'd have to redo it when moving from undercarriage to engine bay pics for example, as you'll probably experience a pretty big change in lighting. My apologies if you already know this, but getting the white balance right makes a huge difference and thus my pedantry.

There are many guides/resources on the subject, but I think this one does a pretty good job:


Considering the high quality of your iPhone pics combined with your fast approaching deadline, maybe this fine tuning is a down-the-road project.

Whatever camera you use, your work and documentation are fabulous. Thanks for sharing!
 
It's funny how much better pics taken with newish, high-end iphones and androids often come out when compared to dedicated digital cameras - especially when seen in screen resolutions and sizes. The dedicated camera can take better photos than the phones, but as you noted they make you work for it. Not sure why exactly, other than a supposition that a large amount of the resources of the amazingly powerful chips in these phones is being used to get white balance right. And that there is an assumption that the pics are going to be used at the aforementioned screen resolution, so prioritize what the pic looks like on the screen of the device that took it.

Anyway, you can probably get better results from the Canon if you manually set the white balance. This isn't something you would need to do very often as long as your lighting conditions don't change much in the shop. You'd have to redo it when moving from undercarriage to engine bay pics for example, as you'll probably experience a pretty big change in lighting. My apologies if you already know this, but getting the white balance right makes a huge difference and thus my pedantry.

There are many guides/resources on the subject, but I think this one does a pretty good job:


Considering the high quality of your iPhone pics combined with your fast approaching deadline, maybe this fine tuning is a down-the-road project.

Whatever camera you use, your work and documentation are fabulous. Thanks for sharing!
No apologies. This was riveting stuff to read. That Canon camera has a 632 page manual. Its overwhelming. Your suggestion to re-set my white balance is greatly appreciated. I will take this up as soon as Phase III is finished. If I finish early I will shot the results with the Canon with my new white balance! Always good to hear from you. Thanks for chiming in!
 
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Very good progress again today. I was deep into it when the Vapor Hone supplier called. All of the aluminum engine castings are ready! I'll grab them in the morning.

Today's update is a one pic quiz. What's wrong with this picture?
 

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You could have taken the picture in black and white and it would look the same?

1+ for Erik's observation.
 
You made me smile already when i read "quiz"!

My guess: The bracket has no the opening for the slot bolt.
Should be like this: (see top right in the image)

View attachment 137747
Eric,
Your 'guess' is spot on. You nailed it. Here is the background: As you are aware, when you insert the Getrag 265 the crossmember bolt holes slide back right into the area where this "T'' bolt insertion slot is. We all know the fixes...... custom crossmembers, later 4 bolt alum crossmember, etc. But I want to keep this one as stock (looking) as possible so I am going to use a simple 4 spd crossmember, planted in the right location with both bolts secure in thier new postion. I installed two new "T'' bolts yesterday, slid them back before welding them in permanently. More later on that crossmember soon.

Thank for your educated 'guess'!
 

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The morning was spent on a 'Coupe Loop' -visiting suppliers for drop offs (brake lines) and pick ups (vapor honing and powder coating and engine balancer (clutch and pressure plate)).
Image one: Aluminum parts as they came off the motor
Image two: Vapor honing (=highly controlled water pressure with super fine glass media) an outsourced process resulting in a very uniform, raw aluminum surface
This process as immediately followed up with Cerikote ceramic clear coat. This image is taken after the parts have been Cerikote'd. If you are interested in either this process google "Vapor Honing'' and visit for more details. The product I am using is rated to 800 F.
Image three: schedule updated. Powder coated parts and the flywheel / clutch are back in the shop. Black diamond indicates item is 100% complete.
Last item is a short 51 second video tour of this most powerful of work spaces. An incredibly productive space. Thank you Reyn.
https://youtu.be/bgzEu0bmug0
 

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The morning was spent on a 'Coupe Loop' -visiting suppliers for drop offs (brake lines) and pick ups (vapor honing and powder coating and engine balancer (clutch and pressure plate)).
Image one: Aluminum parts as they came off the motor
Image two: Vapor honing (=highly controlled water pressure with super fine glass media) an outsourced process resulting in a very uniform, raw aluminum surface
This process as immediately followed up with Cerikote ceramic clear coat. This image is taken after the parts have been Cerikote'd. If you are interested in either this process google "Vapor Honing'' and visit for more details. The product I am using is rated to 800 F.
Image three: schedule updated. Powder coated parts and the flywheel / clutch are back in the shop. Black diamond indicates item is 100% complete.
Last item is a short 51 second video tour of this most powerful of work spaces. An incredibly productive space. Thank you Reyn.
https://youtu.be/bgzEu0bmug0
Hello, I am using CERAKOTE it easy works like a paint you can spray at home the most of our parts are silver color and they have CERAKOTE GLACIER SILVER - C-7700 AND temperatures up to 1,800° Fahrenheit and last longer and powder coating takes time and you are limited bigger parts you need bigger oven CERAKOTE you have to buy C series for air cure there is other color also is oven cure most of color that we need it is air cure just check the web site.
https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating?cure=cera_air

 
The morning was spent on a 'Coupe Loop' -visiting suppliers for drop offs (brake lines) and pick ups (vapor honing and powder coating and engine balancer (clutch and pressure plate)).
Image one: Aluminum parts as they came off the motor
Image two: Vapor honing (=highly controlled water pressure with super fine glass media) an outsourced process resulting in a very uniform, raw aluminum surface
This process as immediately followed up with Cerikote ceramic clear coat. This image is taken after the parts have been Cerikote'd. If you are interested in either this process google "Vapor Honing'' and visit for more details. The product I am using is rated to 800 F.
Image three: schedule updated. Powder coated parts and the flywheel / clutch are back in the shop. Black diamond indicates item is 100% complete.
Last item is a short 51 second video tour of this most powerful of work spaces. An incredibly productive space. Thank you Reyn.
https://youtu.be/bgzEu0bmug0
Ahead of schedule and hopefully under cost!
 
That would be a worldwide first in the car restoration universe.
At the moment, I am slightly ahead of schedule, but in the 'car restoration universe' this can be extremely temporary, as the smallest part can bite you and bring the forward progress to a halt. I am keeping my fingers crossed as the last of the key suppliers just delivered this morning. See pic of gold zinc plating just back from the plater.

I would have said that I was right on budget, but I am officially over budget by $21.00. After sourcing three fine French Pastries to bring Carla the front office manager at the plater. She controls the schedule. Eclairs and chocolate layer cakes landed at 10 am and the parts were magically finished at 1pm.

This is key, 'cause it means we can start engine reassembly over the weekend. If there is a shortage during assembly we can start working it first thing on Monday morning.

Image two is the powder coater. The extra alum. oil filter canister is for Chris Macha's project. Powdercoat two steel canisters and pic the best.

Three for three on the key suppliers all delivering this week within 4 days. I am on schedule because they are the best.
 

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Today's update:
Water jacket and the inner wet cylinder liners are pristine
Brut force is the only way to get new freeze plugs in
Long block assembly went very smoothly today. Obsessive attention being paid to the mating surface flatness, cleanliness particularly at the the exposed head gasket. Yesterday we painted the shortblock.
Put in two solid hours in degreasing the radiator core support and D/S inner fender. Surface rust removal is the next step.
Would have had the manifolds back on, but, had to leave early for pickleball!
Back at it on Monday morning.
 

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@Luis A. No machining required. The head stayed on the block. This car has only 33,742 miles on it.

@adawil2002 I might use a spot blaster on a few areas in the engine compartment. Mostly it'll be grinding off. Then on to the direct-to-metal primer.

Working six days a week at the moment, it will go to 7/ week if I get behind schedule.

Thanks both for chiming in.
 
Spent the morning on motor reassembly. Good progress made with Chris Macha making a special parts delivery that allowed us to button up four orifices'.

-Oil sprayer bar is fastened by two hallow bolts that pass pressurized oil into the bar. A famous failure mode is for the bolt to loosen and you no long have oil spraying on your rocker arms. This is an extra 30 minutes to drill a hole in the bolt head and safety wire the bolt ensuring it never counter rotates.

-Red dot on the thermostat is another hole I drilled this one is an air breather (burp hole) to allow air to vent from the block when filling with coolant. Note the orientation of the hole is at 12 o'clock (straight up as the highest spot, to bleed the most air)


Spent the afternoon and evening on the engine compartment and undercarriage. White spots are DTM primer over areas ground down to raw metal. This will be the primer before applying the Wurth Stoneguard.
 

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Nice to see the solution on the oil bar bolt. How did you drill the hole under that slanted angle? Looks well done.

I also notice that you need the link to this thread: oil dip stick repaint :) https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/yellow-dipstick-paint-match.21304/
I'm sorry if I/m messing up your timing with this.

Doesn't the small hole in the thermostat allow for a coolant passage that is undesired when the engine is warning up? If I understand it well, the hole (besides letting air through while filling as intended), also *always* lets coolant through, even if the thermostat is in it's closed position. Wouldn't this increase the time the engine needs to reach normal operating temperatures?
 
Spent the morning on motor reassembly. Good progress made with Chris Macha making a special parts delivery that allowed us to button up four orifices'.

-Oil sprayer bar is fastened by two hallow bolts that pass pressurized oil into the bar. A famous failure mode is for the bolt to loosen and you no long have oil spraying on your rocker arms. This is an extra 30 minutes to drill a hole in the bolt head and safety wire the bolt ensuring it never counter rotates.

-Red dot on the thermostat is another hole I drilled this one is an air breather (burp hole) to allow air to vent from the block when filling with coolant. Note the orientation of the hole is at 12 o'clock (straight up as the highest spot, to bleed the most air)


Spent the afternoon and evening on the engine compartment and undercarriage. White spots are DTM primer over areas ground down to raw metal. This will be the primer before applying the Wurth Stoneguard.
Thanks very much for sharing. Can not wait to see the final outcome.
 
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