Raven gets a new nest

autokunst said:
I was wondering when it would come back around to the nest - ha ha. Thank you for asking. But there is not a lot to tell. I have released the contractors for all remaining work except for the high bay garage door. This door and track is scheduled to be installed on December 27, although I can't be here that day and I want to be present. So maybe the following week. Else, as you might imagine, I have gotten busy at the studio again so progress is not far from grinding to a halt. :oops:

Here's a shot from just now (apparently I do requests). I've started to prime and paint in order to install the heat pump unit. The unit is installed, wired, and piped. I still need to evacuate the line set and interior coil before charging/releasing the refrigerant and firing it up. It is supposed to get down to 8 degrees tonight, and 13 the following night. My plan is to evacuate on Saturday and hopefully everything will be good to go. I might install some exterior light fixtures while the pump is running, too. The drywall is not perfect, but the guy did a pretty nice job. And my painting is impeccable. I like to paint. :cool:
View attachment 83433
Click to expand...

Excellent to see paint on the wall. I had wondered for years why a lot of garages are drywalled with mud and tape, but not painted.
It turns out it's fire code that requires the drywall to be installed, but most builders don't spend the money to paint, which seems short sighted to me.
My garage was a carport before being closed in so I have Hardiboard lapboard siding on my inside walls. Not ideal, but I've managed to get things installed.
Talk about being fire resistant, Hardiboad is basically concrete.

So, I've been wondering about the 2x4's in the raised section where your lift will go. Are they just bracing and will be removed, or will they serve some purpose?
And are you installing LED lighting? It's getting so cheap and is so bright. Color rendering isn't perfect, but quite good.

Ian
 
Hello Ian,
Yes, PAINT! I am painting the walls for a few reasons. First, is for light reflection - the space will be more evenly illuminated with the color I've chosen. Second is to create a pleasant, uniform surface finish. I am applying a nice, soft stipple to the smooth drywall surface (or perhaps this crowd would prefer "orange peel", which is something I hope to avoid on cars). And finally, cleanliness. I am using a pretty high grade paint with a satin sheen. It isn't stain proof, and I won't be able to scrub it excessively. But it will be wipe-able and should stay very clean.

On a detached garage, no drywall is required. It could simply be exposed studs. But when I added insulation, I needed to cover it with something. I used drywall for the above stated reasons. When a garage is attached to a house, drywall is required to provide fire separation. And the code states that it needs to be filled and taped, or what is referred to as a Level 2 finish on the drywall. Most builder grade and spec homes stop there to meet the minimum code requirement. My guy did something between a Level 3 and a Level 4 finish. Perhaps excessive, but I hope never to re-do it again.

I found some amazing vintage industrial light fixtures that I look forward to unveiling here soon. And I will be using LED lamps throughout. I am a bit of an illumination snob - color temperature and rendition are very important to me. The common, super bright LED lights that are sold for garages are terrible in my opinion. Their coloration is so cool (blue) it looks like a morgue. I am going with a warmer temperature and a reasonable CRI. Again, you'll see it soon (I hope).

As for the 2x4s, it is something that will most definitely make sense once you see it finished. But I will try to explain it in my next post - stay tuned...

mulberryworks said:
Excellent to see paint on the wall. I had wondered for years why a lot of garages are drywalled with mud and tape, but not painted.
It turns out it's fire code that requires the drywall to be installed, but most builders don't spend the money to paint, which seems short sighted to me.
My garage was a carport before being closed in so I have Hardiboard lapboard siding on my inside walls. Not ideal, but I've managed to get things installed.
Talk about being fire resistant, Hardiboad is basically concrete.

So, I've been wondering about the 2x4's in the raised section where your lift will go. Are they just bracing and will be removed, or will they serve some purpose?
And are you installing LED lighting? It's getting so cheap and is so bright. Color rendering isn't perfect, but quite good.

Ian
Click to expand...
 
The 2x4s are the bottom chord of the roof trusses. Which is to say, they are integral to the structure and are not going anywhere. I will be painting them, though. Here is a photo of the trusses from a couple of months ago, right after they were installed.
20191004-trusses.jpg


I built the garage as tall as I could (as allowed by the applicable zoning ordinance). And although the ceiling is pretty tall, it is not as tall as most 2-post lifts. I had originally contemplated using a lift with the cross member at the floor. These tend to be a bit shorter and I could have fit the lift under the ceiling. But then I'd have to roll everything over that ridge between the posts. So I am using a full size lift with the cross member at the top, as depicted in this image from the internet:
quality_lifts_q10-image07.jpg


But the cross member will be threaded through the trusses - above the 2x4 chords you see. I didn't realize I could do this, but the lift sales person suggested it. I found this image on the internet that isn't exactly the same as what I am doing, but it illustrates the idea:
toschkoff-2.jpg
 
Very cool @autokunst,

Do you have enough room to get the crossmember up there? My colleague needs to add some support for his ceiling joists. Last week we were brainstorming where he could cut the exterior to get the beams in. I told him: “I cut holes in my roof and exterior walls all the time. It’s no big deal”. He opted to cut the drywall, but I don’t think he will be able to get them up there.

I’m sure you have a vent or a plan for this. :)
 
Markos said:
Very cool @autokunst,

Do you have enough room to get the crossmember up there? My colleague needs to add some support for his ceiling joists. Last week we were brainstorming where he could cut the exterior to get the beams in. I told him: “I cut holes in my roof and exterior walls all the time. It’s no big deal”. He opted to cut the drywall, but I don’t think he will be able to get them up there.

I’m sure you have a vent or a plan for this. :)
Click to expand...
My "plan" is to get the lift and all of its parts here first. Then see if I can finagle the cross member up in there - I haven't tested the geometry with a mock-up or even on the computer. I think the cross member is pretty/relatively thin. But if it doesn't thread up there, plan B is to open up the drywall on one of the ends of the "trough" and slide it in from the attic. The great thing about drywall is that it is easy to refinish and no one will ever know. ;)
 
autokunst said:
I am applying a nice, soft stipple to the smooth drywall surface (or perhaps this crowd would prefer "orange peel", which is something I hope to avoid on cars). And finally, cleanliness. I am using a pretty high grade paint with a satin sheen.
Click to expand...
As opposed to my garage where I used recycled paint from home Depot and shot it with an airless in about thirty minutes. :)
 
Ah, I see. I have an even lower ceiling, with our living room above. I went with a MaxJax that's bolted into the garage floor. It's not ideal, but it's enough. I have a very low stool, made from a Harbor Freight furniture dolly with padding that I can roll around on under the car when it's at the highest setting. It was a great help with the Boxster transmission so I'm sure it will be fine with the E9.

I used free recycled paint from the city recycling center for the interior of my sheds. Usually they have tan and brown, but I got lucky and got off white and a sage green. Good enough.

autokunst said:
The 2x4s are the bottom chord of the roof trusses. Which is to say, they are integral to the structure and are not going anywhere. I will be painting them, though. Here is a photo of the trusses from a couple of months ago, right after they were installed.
I built the garage as tall as I could (as allowed by the applicable zoning ordinance). And although the ceiling is pretty tall, it is not as tall as most 2-post lifts. I had originally contemplated using a lift with the cross member at the floor. These tend to be a bit shorter and I could have fit the lift under the ceiling. But then I'd have to roll everything over that ridge between the posts. So I am using a full size lift with the cross member at the top, as depicted in this image from the internet:
View attachment 83449

But the cross member will be threaded through the trusses - above the 2x4 chords you see. I didn't realize I could do this, but the lift sales person suggested it. I found this image on the internet that isn't exactly the same as what I am doing, but it illustrates the idea.
Click to expand...
 
Two references to recycled paint. I didn't know this was a thing. So you don't know what you are getting? Interior, exterior, oil, latex, acrylic - let alone color and sheen? Paint is such a chemistry equation - adhesion, performance, etc are all pretty specific these days. Do you get recycled primer, too?
 
@autokunst,

I would be curious to know what paint you use. I'm not a 'paint snob', but I do buy good consumer paint. I have had poor results with cheap paint and 'premium' paint. The stuff I use is mid-grade consumer paint from a reputable store, but still costs about $70/gal when not on sale (but it is always on sale. I presume that this is a BS consumer markup price, even when 40% off. I've painted every room in our house at least twice in the last 10 years, only due to color and style changes. I paint a lot, including my exterior. I used 5 gallons of cheap paint in the garage though and it's much more in-your-face than your garage walls. I can reach up and touch my ceilings. :D

Man I would love it if I could use my sprayer on interiors. For as much as I paint I think it is the worst activity in the world. It makes me not want to get out of bed the next day. :D
 
Stephen you are inspiring me to mud & tape. Already have the paint color picked out, will be that dry-wall-green-board green.
 
autokunst said:
Two references to recycled paint. I didn't know this was a thing. So you don't know what you are getting? Interior, exterior, oil, latex, acrylic - let alone color and sheen? Paint is such a chemistry equation - adhesion, performance, etc are all pretty specific these days. Do you get recycled primer, too?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's a crapshoot as to what you are really getting. It's all latex paint. With the donated leftover paint, the city workers mix up 600 gallon batches which is why they most often have tan or brown. It's a semigloss finish. They do have target colors to mix toward, but I wouldn't put any bets on a new batch matching an old one.
When asked, they said it's 'indoor outdoor' paint. Sure it is. But I have some on the exterior trim of my outdoor shed as well as the entire interior and it's been fine for 3 years with no issues. They have no free primers. I imagine the primary use for these recycled paints is for landlords repainting rentals after a move out, or homeowners on a budget. And it keeps them out of the landfill.
 
Last edited:
adawil2002 said:
Stephen you are inspiring me to mud & tape. Already have the paint color picked out, will be that dry-wall-green-board green.
Click to expand...
Having seen photos of your VERY NICE garage, I think it is already prepped well and painted green, yes? ;) With hints of timber and steel structure. Very nice indeed.
 
Markos said:
I would be curious to know what paint you use.
Click to expand...
Oh boy, you are going to get the long answer. I am originally from, and started my career in, Chicago. There, Benjamin Moore is the paint that all the architects specify and all the pro painters use. This was my first exposure, so I assumed it was this way everywhere. When we moved to Wisconsin for a position in a firm, I started to specify Benjamin Moore on the projects I worked on and EVERY painter came back with a substitution for Sherwin Williams. At first, I was angry with this, and insisted they use BM paint, which jacked the price up on the projects. I've since learned that in Illinois, Benjamin Moore works with the painters and essentially corners the professional market. Likewise, Sherwin Williams does that here in Wisconsin. I've come to live with it, and many of the colors in our select palette we use on our projects are SW colors. Although a few of them are still BM colors that are translated. As I said above, paints are an interesting chemistry. There is a Pratt and Lambert color that I really like (I learned about it back when I worked at a big 360 person firm in Chicago). It has a chameleon quality to it, working well with nearly any color that is adjacent to it. Only Pratt and Lambert's chemistry can achieve this. And if you ask all of the old school painters which paint they prefer here in Wisconsin, they all say Hallman Lindsay is their favorite.

As I said, I've adopted - when in Rome... So I buy Sherwin Williams now. Actually, Benjamin Moore had stores in the area here not long ago, and I was back with them (getting a pro discount through the store). But they closed all their stores and now the paint is only offered at big box stores like Farm and Fleet. F&F does not give me a discount, so I go to Sherwin Williams where I get a pro discount.

For the exterior of our house and garage, I actually paid up for the Benjamin Moore Regal line as that is what I preferred. But for the interiors, I am using Sherwin Williams "Super Paint". This is a $60 a gallon paint that I get for about $36 a gallon (a little better still when bought in 5-gallon pails). For a lot of the specialty work I do, I go with Sherwin Williams industrial lines that aren't available at the retail level. These are very high performing coatings that often also require more skill than I have to apply. But I am rocking the Super Paint. :cool: Super close up:
20191219-stipple.jpg
 
Thanks for the info. I use SW Super Paint everywhere. I’ve tried higher end SW paints and I wasn’t impressed. I counted and I have 17 Super Paint iterations of color or Sheen on/in my house. My garage paint is from Lowe’s or something like that. I think I bought about 13 gallons of SW when I did my exterior. That was fun. :(

autokunst said:
Oh boy, you are going to get the long answer. I am originally from, and started my career in, Chicago. There, Benjamin Moore is the paint that all the architects specify and all the pro painters use. This was my first exposure, so I assumed it was this way everywhere. When we moved to Wisconsin for a position in a firm, I started to specify Benjamin Moore on the projects I worked on and EVERY painter came back with a substitution for Sherwin Williams. At first, I was angry with this, and insisted they use BM paint, which jacked the price up on the projects. I've since learned that in Illinois, Benjamin Moore works with the painters and essentially corners the professional market. Likewise, Sherwin Williams does that here in Wisconsin. I've come to live with it, and many of the colors in our select palette we use on our projects are SW colors. Although a few of them are still BM colors that are translated. As I said above, paints are an interesting chemistry. There is a Pratt and Lambert color that I really like (I learned about it back when I worked at a big 360 person firm in Chicago). It has a chameleon quality to it, working well with nearly any color that is adjacent to it. Only Pratt and Lambert's chemistry can achieve this. And if you ask all of the old school painters which paint they prefer here in Wisconsin, they all say Hallman Lindsay is their favorite.

As I said, I've adopted - when in Rome... So I buy Sherwin Williams now. Actually, Benjamin Moore had stores in the area here not long ago, and I was back with them (getting a pro discount through the store). But they closed all their stores and now the paint is only offered at big box stores like Farm and Fleet. F&F does not give me a discount, so I go to Sherwin Williams where I get a pro discount.

For the exterior of our house and garage, I actually paid up for the Benjamin Moore Regal line as that is what I preferred. But for the interiors, I am using Sherwin Williams "Super Paint". This is a $60 a gallon paint that I get for about $36 a gallon (a little better still when bought in 5-gallon pails). For a lot of the specialty work I do, I go with Sherwin Williams industrial lines that aren't available at the retail level. These are very high performing coatings that often also require more skill than I have to apply. But I am rocking the Super Paint. :cool: Super close up:
Click to expand...
 
I'm painting my kitchen cabinets this weekend (finally), using Dunn Edwards Aristoshield per suggestion from a painter friend. His contractor price was $36/gal. Like always, prep for hours and hours, mask, seal up the area, then paint for 30 minutes. LOL
 
dang said:
I'm painting my kitchen cabinets this weekend (finally), using Dunn Edwards Aristoshield per suggestion from a painter friend. His contractor price was $36/gal. Like always, prep for hours and hours, mask, seal up the area, then paint for 30 minutes. LOL
Click to expand...
Cabinets are definitely another level. Because, unlike a wall or ceiling, you want the paint to flatten out really well. The Sherwin Williams equivalent would probably be their Pro Classic. But I remember when we would just use on oil based paint and add some Penetrol to retard the dry time and drag (or later, Floetrol to latex paint). Now we're getting into the tricks that made a difference.
 
Markos said:
I’ve tried higher end SW paints and I wasn’t impressed.
Click to expand...
Not sure what else you've tried. But in my opinion, many of the higher cost, "higher end" paints do not perform as well. Rather, they are lower VOC, / less harmful to something or other - always extremely water based - but they dry/set too quickly and can be very difficult to work with. I imagine your house would feel much larger if it didn't have eleventeen coats of paint encroaching on your space. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top