Raven gets a new nest

[Markos]

Not sure what else you've tried. But in my opinion, many of the higher cost, "higher end" paints do not perform as well. Rather, they are lower VOC, / less harmful to something or other - always extremely water based - but they dry/set too quickly and can be very difficult to work with. I imagine your house would feel much larger if it didn't have eleventeen coats of paint encroaching on your space.

Ha! I have painted every room in my house at least two times in the last 10 years.

I sprayed my cabinets and they turned out well. I used oil based primer on top of the wood to prevent any yellowing. You can go latex on oil but not the opposite.

 

[mulberryworks]

Cabinets are definitely another level. Because, unlike a wall or ceiling, you want the paint to flatten out really well. The Sherwin Williams equivalent would probably be their Pro Classic. But I remember when we would just use on oil based paint and add some Penetrol to retard the dry time and drag (or later, Floetrol to latex paint). Now we're getting into the tricks that made a difference.

Back in the 80's I bought my first house (built 1914) and the kitchen cabinets were Youngstown Kitchen, made of steel. Since I had by then painted a car or two I went down to the local auto paint jobber and bought a quart of mismatched cream white and sprayed the cabinets after removing all the old paint and updating the knobs. They came out great. Stock photo for illustration.

 

[autokunst]

Back in the 80's I bought my first house (built 1914) and the kitchen cabinets were Youngstown Kitchen, made of steel. Since I had by then painted a car or two I went down to the local auto paint jobber and bought a quart of mismatched cream white and sprayed the cabinets after removing all the old paint and updating the knobs. They came out great. Stock photo for illustration.


View attachment 83486

We have that same metal kitchen sink and cab here in our c. 1900 house. My wife painted it a very bright "spring leaf" green with a brush. It is definitely not as nice or smooth as your paint job! But we love it regardless.

 

[dang]

I imagine your house would feel much larger if it didn't have eleventeen coats of paint encroaching on your space.

He also has no texture left.

 

[autokunst]

He also has no texture left.

That is a good thing. "Texture" (as used by drywallers to create tolerance for shoddy work) should be banned from the building industry.

 

[Dohn]

Our first house had, wait for it... Pastel Pink kitchen appliances! How '50s is that? It was going to be a deal-breaker, but the realtor had a friend who painted cars for a living, so he got porcelain paint and changed them to, wait for it... Coppertone! How '70s is that? Anyway, worked great, looked good, at least until we used oven cleaner...

 

[JayWltrs]

I'm painting my kitchen cabinets this weekend (finally), using Dunn Edwards Aristoshield per suggestion from a painter friend. His contractor price was $36/gal. Like always, prep for hours and hours, mask, seal up the area, then paint for 30 minutes. LOL

Just catching up on this. Our painting subcontractor (who is otherwise top notch) on our kitchen reno (4years ago) convinced us not to use oil and to use some new type of alkyd or urethane paint. It looked great. For about two weeks. Then we noticed the shelving and other surface areas were scuffing terribly. GC ultimately had the regional SW rep to the house, b/c we were an early user, I guess. Lots of shrugs. We'd already been in construction for 6+ mos on 3 mos estimate, and I just wanted them gone, so it is still there, and we work around it or make sure there's always something under books, pans, etc., that are placed on the paint. Wish I would have used oil.

 

[JayWltrs]

Back in the 80's I bought my first house (built 1914) and the kitchen cabinets were Youngstown Kitchen, made of steel. Since I had by then painted a car or two I went down to the local auto paint jobber and bought a quart of mismatched cream white and sprayed the cabinets after removing all the old paint and updating the knobs. They came out great. Stock photo for illustration.


View attachment 83486

Refurbished sinks like this in Jadeite are now going for $2k+.

 

[dang]

Just catching up on this. Our painting subcontractor (who is otherwise top notch) on our kitchen reno (4years ago) convinced us not to use oil and to use some new type of alkyd or urethane paint. It looked great. For about two weeks. Then we noticed the shelving and other surface areas were scuffing terribly. GC ultimately had the regional SW rep to the house, b/c we were an early user, I guess. Lots of shrugs. We'd already been in construction for 6+ mos on 3 mos estimate, and I just wanted them gone, so it is still there, and we work around it or make sure there's always something under books, pans, etc., that are placed on the paint. Wish I would have used oil.

I painted these same cabinets about 30 years ago with off the shelf cabinet paint from Home Depot. They still looked really good except for a few areas in front of the sink from high usage. I'm going off of my friend's recommendation mostly because he and his dad have been painting for a long time and have used this DE paint quite a bit. We plan on having something on the selves anyway so maybe that wouldn't be a problem for us regardless. We'll see. Cabinets first, then I'll use my paint garage to finish the drawers and cabinet doors.

 

[JayWltrs]

I painted these same cabinets about 30 years ago with off the shelf cabinet paint from Home Depot. They still looked really good except for a few areas in front of the sink from high usage. I'm going off of my friend's recommendation mostly because he and his dad have been painting for a long time and have used this DE paint quite a bit. We plan on having something on the selves anyway so maybe that wouldn't be a problem for us regardless. We'll see. Cabinets first, then I'll use my paint garage to finish the drawers and cabinet doors.

Sure, go ahead and rely on reason, experience, and expertise. I've got emotional scars, man.

 

[autokunst]

One more byproduct of the "newest", higher cost paints is this - I believe they are formulated not only with lower VOCs but also to dry more quickly so the painters can get in and out of the project faster. Everyone is in such a hurry and the market is responding. Of course, these new paints are very difficult to work with (even for some pros) and the results are not always as you'd expect. The "SW Super Paint I am using has about a 4-hour re-coat time and it fully cures in about 7 days under their ideal conditions of 77 degrees and 50% RH. What construction site is heated up to 77 degrees???

 

[Markos]

My cabinet paint was a “latex enamel”. Not marketed as cabinet paint, but I use it on all my trim and anything that sees high traffic. I typically use SW Pro Classic but it may have been something a bit more specific for the cabinets. That was October 2010 and thad paint can is deep in the back of my cabinet.

 

[Sooner]

Just moved out of our house, and when we remodeled years ago, got a complete kitchen set out of Denver, blasted and powder coated, still in great shape after 20 years, also dark Red!

 

[autokunst]

A lot of progress this weekend. I installed all of the exterior lights and motion sensors. I had a very specific fixture type in mind, but I didn't want to spend a heck of a lot on them. So when I found these for a cheap price, I jumped on them. But on the building, they look pretty tiny and out of proportion. It is a mistake I'll live with. The LED lamps are on order.

And the big project of the weekend was that I finished the install of the heat pump. I spent the first part of Saturday evacuating the line set and interior coils. That went well, I think. This unit will heat, cool, dehumidify, and also circulate air with a fan only mode. I am still getting to know it, but it seems to be working well so far. Special thanks to @Luis A. for loaning me his digital vacuum gauge.

 

[mulberryworks]

And I will be using LED lamps throughout. I am a bit of an illumination snob - color temperature and rendition are very important to me. The common, super bright LED lights that are sold for garages are terrible in my opinion. Their coloration is so cool (blue) it looks like a morgue. I am going with a warmer temperature and a reasonable CRI. Again, you'll see it soon (I hope).

Looking forward to see what you've chose for your LED illumination. As a photographer, I'm keenly interested in CRI and color temperature.

 

[autokunst]

Looking forward to see what you've chose for your LED illumination. As a photographer, I'm keenly interested in CRI and color temperature.

It won't be that cool (no pun intended). For the main lights on the interior, mood was very important as was good general illumination. For the (9) primary hanging fixtures (vintage industrial) I am using 2700 K lamps that put out 1600 lumens of light with 16 watts (100w equiv). But the CRI is only just above 80 - they focus more on "warm glow" than color rendition. I will also have some track lighting in there (that I might add to over time). For the track heads, I will use LED reflector lamps - PAR 30 or maybe PAR 20, likely 3000 K and a higher CRI. The lamps I am narrowing down to are 92, 93 and 95 CRI respectively. The exterior lamps are also LED, 1600 lumens per lamp at 15.5 watts, and 80 CRI (color rendition less important out there). So really, the only good CRI I'll have will be the pars which I can focus on things hanging on the walls.

The lamps we select for our projects are always above 90 CRI, and usually 3000 K. I am a fan of warm light. Probably not ideal for photography, but it makes nice spaces.

 

[autokunst]

I seem to have caught a head cold, making life somewhat miserable for the past 24 hours. But I am still making a bit pf progress. Despite the runny nose, yesterday I installed the vintage Holophane lights on the ceiling. These will provide the overall general illumination in the space and I love them. I was worried that they'd be too bright and that I'd need to dim them down, but the light level seems just right. Of course, I'll use task lighting for up-close work. Their color temperature is warm, which I like - it contrasts with the harder materials and subject matter in the garage. I will have to do something about the acoustics in there. It is a big, rectangular, hard space and just having a conversation with someone is challenging. This will get better as I bring "stuff" in there to create some diffusion and absorption. I also treated my self to a new linesman pliers for the install. I have an okay pair in okay shape, but they were 2-hours away. So it was a nice little gift - the first new tool to accompany the garage.

 

[Ohmess]

What a great thread.

Stephen -- for acoustics, you want to cover the hard surfaces with soft ones. One simple and cheap thing home theater/audiophile guys do is to hang "clouds" from the ceiling. Something like this: https://acousticalsolutions.com/acoustic-ceiling-clouds/ These are basically wood frames with soft cloth stretched around them, and are simple and cheap to make. They can be attached directly to the ceiling, but work a little better if hung with stand offs.

Another thing that would help would be some fiberglass rigid board insulation on the garage doors.

I presume you will be hanging things on the walls, but you should consider something to break up any large open areas. For walls, those three part cloth pictures are helpful if you end up with any large open spaces (you could even have a custom set done of your favorite picture of your coupe).

 

[CSteve]

What a great thread.

Stephen -- for acoustics, you want to cover the hard surfaces with soft ones. One simple and cheap thing home theater/audiophile guys do is to hang "clouds" from the ceiling. Something like this: https://acousticalsolutions.com/acoustic-ceiling-clouds/ These are basically wood frames with soft cloth stretched around them, and are simple and cheap to make. They can be attached directly to the ceiling, but work a little better if hung with stand offs.

Another thing that would help would be some fiberglass rigid board insulation on the garage doors.

I presume you will be hanging things on the walls, but you should consider something to break up any large open areas. For walls, those three part cloth pictures are helpful if you end up with any large open spaces (you could even have a custom set done of your favorite picture of your coupe).

Love the lights. You lucky dog. I have old flourescents in the garage. The worst kind of lighting. There are two flourescents in my office at the College. I have never turned them on.

Looking good, No Greate!

 

[adawil2002]

Stephen, love those Holophanes! My garage is outfitted with American Nail Plate PEOB316-51in Architectural Bronze (http://anplighting.com/content/catalog/peob316), which are similar to yours. Have 12" ones over my work bench.