The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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Peter Coomaraswamy said:
Hi Scott, tough to be optimistic about the pricing, 5 years ago I spent 9K on "Paint & Body" and I delivered the car to the shop stripped bare naked, engine compartment and trunk pre-sprayed. If you are very close by and can monitor the progress and quality you may take the chance. I've done 5 of these and I can tell you that 8 hours goes by really quick and you can easily spend 3 hours taking a door apart not to mention putting it back together-correctly, clean, re-grease, re-align, door brake, there's like 400 parts on each door- I think these guys are probably good guys, but the hourly play-by-play is not going to happen.

Wish you were closer to Austin I'd be happy to help you. Personally, I think it's a blast to tear these things down and put them back together but I don't have to do it for a living. If you really get in a jam, we're putting together a body shop down here PM me and we can talk about it. We have lots of vintage BMW's in need of paint so we found a guy who's trying to break away on his own and a friend of mine and I are thinking of backing him but we're in the test phase now- he's shooting the nose on my M3 e36 next week. I'll document it thoroughly.
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Thank you. I am not looking for an hourly play-by-play from these guys at all. I have a fixed rate with them subject to anything new coming up that was unforeseen. For the price you mentioned above I would’ve driven to you to have the car done there. I’m always looking for a road trip.


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I think the material is a bit too much how ever the sanding is greatly underpriced, to get a car to be straight and not show waves (specially black) the block sanding with Epoxy and Filler primer will take a lot of time.
I would look at some of the work the shop has done and the warranty against fading and shrink back!
 
Scott, call and I will tell you about having my car painted, looks better than new, cost more than anyone has suggested (body work, painted the underside etc...)
 
Ka-ching!

Ya, all typical stuff. Time to order from W&N. Probably labor alone will run you $2-3k just for the rocker work.

If you got spare money (who does?), I would spend extra to remove the front fenders. Even if little is found there, one can blast it and treat the metal there so you'll have no issues for decades. Also check the front sunroof drains.

For the rear quarter, I would start w/the rocker line, but I have a feeling, he may have to go a bit higher. If he starts opening more of the quarter up, that's a good time to re-route the rear sunroof drain.

It's only money. He sounds like he knows what he's doing. Hopefully he doesn't charge $100+/hour or else things will get spendy real quick.

Is the motor staying put or is it going to be yanked out to re=paint the engine compartment?

I would defintely stay w/black. A whole lot cheaper to stick w/the color that's there unless it's really poorly applied and the jambs, etc. need redone.

She'll be beautiful and worth $$$ when done. Take tons of pictures to archive the work done as that there is worth $$$ for resale one day.
 
Walloth-Nesch has everything you need to fix the lower quarters, rockers and lower rear front fenders so your shop doesn't have to fabricate patch panels.
 
teahead said:
Ka-ching!

Ya, all typical stuff. Time to order from W&N. Probably labor alone will run you $2-3k just for the rocker work.

If you got spare money (who does?), I would spend extra to remove the front fenders. Even if little is found there, one can blast it and treat the metal there so you'll have no issues for decades. Also check the front sunroof drains.

For the rear quarter, I would start w/the rocker line, but I have a feeling, he may have to go a bit higher. If he starts opening more of the quarter up, that's a good time to re-route the rear sunroof drain.

It's only money. He sounds like he knows what he's doing. Hopefully he doesn't charge $100+/hour or else things will get spendy real quick.

Is the motor staying put or is it going to be yanked out to re=paint the engine compartment?

I would defintely stay w/black. A whole lot cheaper to stick w/the color that's there unless it's really poorly applied and the jambs, etc. need redone.

She'll be beautiful and worth $$$ when done. Take tons of pictures to archive the work done as that there is worth $$$ for resale one day.
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Great comments. We are not yanking engine out, i think, but plan to repaint engine bay. Not sure how he intends to do it unless he removes engine. I forwarded this to painter.

Do you think otherwise it looks "ok"? Frankly, I thought it could have been much worse. I bought it 7 years ago I think, and it was painted many years prior to that. I'd be happy if my new paint job holds up as well 15 years later. Could have been much worse.
 
Yes, some rust is always to be expected, let's just hope the inner parts of the rockers aren't totally rotted out. It's easy to slap on a new patch on the outside, but just remember that a lot of the e9's structural integrity comes from the pieces behind that rocker panel you were poking at.
Hard to say at this point, you'll know more when you open it up, and I'll also throw in a good word about the W&N metal parts, I had my rockers rebuilt with their parts and the quality/fitment was very good!
 
Did you peak in the glove box and fuse box areas? If it's solid there, then you're lucky. BUt if not, something you'll want to address...w/the engine out.
 
To get top dollar if/when you do sell, you should replace the floor pans w/W&N stuff and have it imperceptible as he described. You're going this far, floors won't be that much more money.
 
teahead said:
Did you peak in the glove box and fuse box areas? If it's solid there, then you're lucky.
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Does anyone have pics of these areas "not solid"? I took a peek at mine and they seemed to look relatively intact/good. But perhaps I was looking through rose colored glasses.?. Thought I saw some rust, but upon closer inspection it was mostly carpet glue...
 
autokunst said:
Does anyone have pics of these areas "not solid"? I took a peek at mine and they seemed to look relatively intact/good. But perhaps I was looking through rose colored glasses.?. Thought I saw some rust, but upon closer inspection it was mostly carpet glue...
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Here are some pics, this is incredibly far gone, but any holes in this region means lots of work to put right. But as you said, the glue can make it look worse than it really is.
http://www.vranedom.com/leftapillar/leftapillar.html
https://www.flickr.com/photos/123429072@N07/with/13916408445/

Also for Scott, here are a couple of pictures that quickly sums up the rockers and their layers, there are better pictures around in many project threads if you decide to take a closer look.
http://www.vranedom.com/rockers/rockers.html
 
My brother had the engine compartment of his 2000CS painted with the engine in place and the painter did a great job
 
My other advice, which I already gave Scott, and this idea/product is from Sven, get the Wurth cavity protection spray and hose down those internal areas
After it is painted
 
mark99 said:
My other advice, which I already gave Scott, and this idea/product is from Sven, get the Wurth cavity protection spray and hose down those internal areas
After it is painted
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I told him about that. We are doing that


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