The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

[JFENG]

Scott
Interesting video.
Maybe you guys didn’t look at my pictures very carefully. If you do it Mario’s way (as we have described it to you) you will have direct access (from the underside) to the 2 bolts holding each of the bumper arms onto the frame. There is no BS about taking out headlights or any of that jazz. The picture clearly shows both bolts are accessible with zero dismantling of anything. The only challenge you’d have is with the spoiler you might need to jack up the front a bit so you can wiggle under part ways to reach the bolts. The way he is describes what he is gonna do is to leave two big-ass holes in the nose and plug with some monster rubber grommets. If you keep the bumper I it’ll look find to non E9owners. But with the bumper off it’ll be obvious that the job wasn’t done all the way. Sure black minimizes how obvious it’ll be, but you are so close to getting it done right (as defined by have the bumperless CSL look).

I think you should go back one more time and look at how nice clean and simple it is with no bumper and OEM look vertical slots. Be sure you don’t want that look before you go with the shops idea.

One thing is correct. By leaving the big holes, it will be a little easier to remove/install the bumper.

Good luck with either way Scott.

 

[JFENG]

And ... in the previous video it is clear that you have two sets of mounting brackets. One set for a 73 and one set for a 72 (that was modified with the top flange). So I don’t understand why you guys are saying you have the wrong bracket for a 73 bumper.

But if he can get them to fit and make a well fitting filler panel (painted to match), that will actually look pretty nice with the bumper off. Yes I’m changing my previous comment. It just won’t look factory because it’ll be obvious that it was a converted big bumper car.

 

[HB Chris]

I think the guy is saying they need the small metal blocks to secure the arm to the bumper, without them they will move. His backup is to use parts from the 73 to stabilize them.

 

[JFENG]

I think the guy is saying they need the small metal blocks to secure the arm to the bumper, without them they will move. His backup is to use parts from the 73 to stabilize them.

Ich verstehe.

 

[scottevest]

I think the guy is saying they need the small metal blocks to secure the arm to the bumper, without them they will move. His backup is to use parts from the 73 to stabilize them.

I must say I am somewhat confused as well but I think you’re right. Not sure what it is I need to order based upon this confusion

 

[JFENG]

I must say I am somewhat confused as well but I think you’re right. Not sure what it is I need to order based upon this confusion

Scott, let's make it simple. Either you want to do a 73 bumper setup or a 72 and earlier bumper setup.

Just go to realoem.com and everything you need, including pictures of how it all fits together, is right there for either year.
Go study the two diagrams and parts lists. Show your shop how to get to these diagrams and they'll know everything that they need and you and them won't need to stand there scratching your heads about things not fitting together.

 

[DWMBMW]

Scott,

I am confused on why you just do not use the 73 mounting bracket since it’s a a 73 bumper. It will slide in and out a lot easier than an L shaped bracket and the opening can be narrowed up to look correct for a Euro bumper.

 

[DWMBMW]

The original bracket side mounted to frame rail is fairly easy to unbolt but I do not have a front spoiler so I am guessing he fabricated the L bracket for a top bolt just to avoid a lift. I do not think you will end up removing and reinstalling the bumper as often (or as quickly) as you are envisioning so I recommend keeping it as engineered by BMW.

 

[rsporsche]

so much for the thought of an engine swap then, although I would love to convert to fuel injection and lose my new carbs some day....

keep in mind that mine is an engine swap with everything new and injection managed by megasquirt. i am NOT doing this myself, it will be handled by professionals. i am just organizing all of the stuff that i need to buy and who to buy it from.

in addition, when putting in a newer engine - brackets that hold the alternator / power steering are different - so you can put in a new (better) alternator, but also put in all new bolts / nuts, new motor mounts / subframe bushings. you learn that some of the hoses / pipes are different. then there are the things like, while you have it apart, put in a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearing ... oh and a new slave and maybe a clutch master. new radiator, new hoses, etc., etc. its just like what you've been going thru but there are fewer surprises while you are doing it. it comes down to replacing what could break, but mostly it is what you need to replace to make it look great.

the bottom line, having somebody like SFDon guiding you and being the PRO who built the engine and will do the megasquirt install ... and a few key people on the forum who are well versed giving their advice (HBChris / OCCoupe / Stevehose), i feel confident that enough experience and brain power has gone into the planning.

 

[scottevest]

keep in mind that mine is an engine swap with everything new and injection managed by megasquirt. i am NOT doing this myself, it will be handled by professionals. i am just organizing all of the stuff that i need to buy and who to buy it from.

in addition, when putting in a newer engine - brackets that hold the alternator / power steering are different - so you can put in a new (better) alternator, but also put in all new bolts / nuts, new motor mounts / subframe bushings. you learn that some of the hoses / pipes are different. then there are the things like, while you have it apart, put in a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearing ... oh and a new slave and maybe a clutch master. new radiator, new hoses, etc., etc. its just like what you've been going thru but there are fewer surprises while you are doing it. it comes down to replacing what could break, but mostly it is what you need to replace to make it look great.

the bottom line, having somebody like SFDon guiding you and being the PRO who built the engine and will do the megasquirt install ... and a few key people on the forum who are well versed giving their advice (HBChris / OCCoupe / Stevehose), i feel confident that enough experience and brain power has gone into the planning.

makes sense, and thanks for sharing. as much as i'd love to convert to fuel injection, after this process, i need a break. much more work than i anticipated, as i just thought it was a paint job.... if i had been smart, i would have thought it all through in advance, but not sure upon reflection if that would have gotten it done any sooner or less expensive in this case, but time will tell on that soon enough, but it would have been more organized. i don't know what i would have done without all of you. if i did the engine upgrade, i'd use sfdon and pay the price, which btw what would that typically cost? in the meantime, i want to really learn how to tune carbs myself. i need to refer back to an older thread i started on this topic and lots of resources on how to learn myself. it can't be that hard?? it could be fun too.

 

[scottevest]

Scott,

I am confused on why you just do not use the 73 mounting bracket since it’s a a 73 bumper. It will slide in and out a lot easier than an L shaped bracket and the opening can be narrowed up to look correct for a Euro bumper.

Honestly, i am not positive but i believe the 73 bumper was designed to withstand more impact and thus stands out from body a bit more and is considered less attractive. but if you use the 72 bracket you can tuck the bumper into the body closer and it will look better, but there are all sorts of issues that result including what carl just told me in terms of ensuring the bumper doesn't extend too close to the front wheels otherwise it will look odd. seriously so much involved in this...

 

[nosmonkey]

The amount of work needed to do bumper conversions on the US cars sure does make me glad the steering wheel on my 74 is on the wrong side!

 

[scottevest]

The amount of work needed to do bumper conversions on the US cars sure does make me glad the steering wheel on my 74 is on the wrong side!

U r lucky

 

[DWMBMW]

Honestly, i am not positive but i believe the 73 bumper was designed to withstand more impact and thus stands out from body a bit more and is considered less attractive. but if you use the 72 bracket you can tuck the bumper into the body closer and it will look better, but there are all sorts of issues that result including what carl just told me in terms of ensuring the bumper doesn't extend too close to the front wheels otherwise it will look odd

Yes, that could be an issue. I am not sure if the side returns are longer on the 73 bumper. Attached are some reference pics from my 72.

 

[scottevest]

Thought I would reference a before shot which I thought looked pretty good and can only imagine how it’s going to look when it is all done

https://www.flickr.com/photos/thomashawk/40349092015/in/photolist-W6627u-24tvDjg

 

[JFENG]

The amount of work needed to do bumper conversions on the US cars sure does make me glad the steering wheel on my 74 is on the wrong side!

It's actually not very complicated.

Scotts case is unique because
(1) Not starting with a complete set of matching parts.
(2) Shop has no experience with E9's
(3) Shop lacks access to parts diagrams so they don't know what parts exist or how they are supposed to go together

While it's actually quite simple, it's not cheap to do right because of the need to close up holes in the body and repaint the 4 corners and the front/rear valance of the car (ostensibly you're painting 35% of the whole car). But the work to convert is straight forward and the parts themselves only need very minor modification.

 

[scottevest]

It's actually not very complicated.

Scotts case is unique because
(1) Not starting with a complete set of matching parts.
(2) Shop has no experience with E9's
(3) Shop lacks access to parts diagrams so they don't know what parts exist or how they are supposed to go together

While it's actually quite simple, it's not cheap to do right because of the need to close up holes in the body and repaint the 4 corners and the front/rear valance of the car (ostensibly you're painting 35% of the whole car). But the work to convert is straight forward and the parts themselves only need very minor modification.

And (4) Scott is a bit of an idiot and can't seem to follow simple instructions....

 

[JFENG]

And (4) Scott is a bit of an idiot and can't seem to follow simple instructions....

Scott

No it’s your shop. If I took a 1965 Mustang to a Mercedes shop and said, “make me a GT350 clone,” they’d be struggling too. You are basically educating the shop on what to do. Not a trivial job. Your actually doing well because you are going there regularly.

Imagine what would’ve happened if you had just dropped it off and said, “see you in May.”
OMG, right?

 

[scottevest]

Scott

No it’s your shop. If I took a 1965 Mustang to a Mercedes shop and said, “make me a GT350 clone,” they’d be struggling too. You are basically educating the shop on what to do. Not a trivial job. Your actually doing well because you are going there regularly.

Imagine what would’ve happened if you had just dropped it off and said, “see you in May.”
OMG, right?

you are right. i had planned on having someone/kid do it in boise for $3500, but last minute i got nervous. then, i was going to have some random dude in boise do it for $8500, then thought i should have it done here for "same price." little did i know how much time and work and fun it would be and how involved i would have to be. if the shop had to order all parts and do all the research i am doing with your help, none of this would get done right if at all i suspect or they would have charged way more for the time, etc. i am confident that my coupe will be extremely nice once completed. sooo very excited. any bets on whether it will be done by may 15? i think it will be painted and clearcoated next week, then all that is left is curing and reassembly, per gary at least.

 

[arnie]

Off course there’s normally no right or wrong and everything depends on somebody’s personal taste, but I can’t see any obvious advantage in a fast attach option for the front bumper.

I really doubt, that further on you’ll decide on a weekly basis, if you’d like to go for a ride with or without the front bumper.

For me personally an E9 without the front bumper looks just incomplete. Even if you like it this way, there are some regular openings in the body, which makes this not even more attractive to me. Not only the slots for the bumper brackets, but also the side holes at the front fenders, where the bumper normally is bolted to.

If you leave the bumper off and decide to follow Gary’s suggestions, how long will it take for somebody to recognize, that this was an US delivery with the big and more than ugly bumpers ?
I don’t have any clue why it is such a challenge to follow the how to do a reasonable conversion to a Euro style bracket for a Euro style bumper ? You (and Gary) even got pictures of that. Just 4 (2 on each side) mounting points, welded at the sides of the engine support beams.

For an experienced sheet metal guy a duty of just 2 hours. No risk to destroy or just scratch fresh paint, while doing the necessary adaption. Even a less effort maybe compared to produce special covers for the big tunnels, that will remain in the front valance, if you follow these suggestions of your shop.
I would like to have it done right, instead of done before May 15th ….