Better than remind me where the titles are for your old cars.
The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby
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Does that mean I don’t need to recalibrate?
Scott,
The calibration of the speedometer is ONLY dependent on the circumference (or diameter) of the new tires vs that of the old tires. Wheel diameter (i.e. 16" vs 14") itself has no bearing. The OE tires on the '74's, as I recall were 205/70 X 14. I'm pretty sure the ones you bought are essentially the same exterior diameter.
You can get tire diameters by going on Tire Rack's web site and searching for specific size tires, then click on a manufacturer (e.g. Michelin), then on a specific model tire, then on the specifications for that tire. Assuming they make the tire in many sizes, you'll get a whole page of information. Just check the diameter or circumference for the two tire sizes you are comparing. A larger diameter/circumference than OE will mean the car will be going faster than the speedometer registers. Vice versa, smaller diameter/circumference will mean the speedometer will read faster than actual speed.
Cheers,
Gary
The calibration of the speedometer is ONLY dependent on the circumference (or diameter) of the new tires vs that of the old tires. Wheel diameter (i.e. 16" vs 14") itself has no bearing. The OE tires on the '74's, as I recall were 205/70 X 14. I'm pretty sure the ones you bought are essentially the same exterior diameter.
You can get tire diameters by going on Tire Rack's web site and searching for specific size tires, then click on a manufacturer (e.g. Michelin), then on a specific model tire, then on the specifications for that tire. Assuming they make the tire in many sizes, you'll get a whole page of information. Just check the diameter or circumference for the two tire sizes you are comparing. A larger diameter/circumference than OE will mean the car will be going faster than the speedometer registers. Vice versa, smaller diameter/circumference will mean the speedometer will read faster than actual speed.
Cheers,
Gary
Posting this again...
OEM tire Size: 195/70/14 – dia. 24.7”, 77.7” circ, rev / mile = 815
Substitutes: 205/60/15 – dia. 24.7”, 77.6” circ, rev / mile = 817
Substitutes: 225/55/15 – dia. 24.7”, 77.7” circ, rev / mile = 815
Substitutes: 205/55/16 – dia. 24.9”, 78.2” circ, rev / mile = 811
Substitutes: 225/50/16 – dia. 24.9” 78.1” circ, rev / mile = 811
Substitutes: 245/40/17 – dia. 24.7”, 77.6” circ, rev / mile = 816
OEM tire Size: 195/70/14 – dia. 24.7”, 77.7” circ, rev / mile = 815
Substitutes: 205/60/15 – dia. 24.7”, 77.6” circ, rev / mile = 817
Substitutes: 225/55/15 – dia. 24.7”, 77.7” circ, rev / mile = 815
Substitutes: 205/55/16 – dia. 24.9”, 78.2” circ, rev / mile = 811
Substitutes: 225/50/16 – dia. 24.9” 78.1” circ, rev / mile = 811
Substitutes: 245/40/17 – dia. 24.7”, 77.6” circ, rev / mile = 816
I'm told nothing worth to see this week. I think painting starts next week after final block sanding and priming.
Still holding my breath for May 15 to be on the road and no large numbers from Benny.
I think my wood will be about $1200 to repair/redo, slightly more than @Bella but lots less than Madrona and done locally.
Still holding my breath for May 15 to be on the road and no large numbers from Benny.
I think my wood will be about $1200 to repair/redo, slightly more than @Bella but lots less than Madrona and done locally.
Anxious to see how your wood job turns out. I too prefer someone local in the states that can do it cheaper than Madera
IOW, no need to recalibrate the speedo.
Cool that you are going local. I'm not really sure about what they were talking about with the Vinyl in the last video. Do you need new vinyl on the flat part of the dash? All of the wood is completely removable from the vinyl. That includes the wood on the dash as well as the doors. The little wood strips can be pulled out of the flat part of the dash. I have pictures of them in my "deconstruction thread" in my signature.
I couldn't help myself so went for an update. Not much to report but if you have comments on the attachment of front bumper video below, please let me know.
Thanks.
Note there are 2 short videos.
https://youtu.be/A5f360r8ajA
Thanks.
Note there are 2 short videos.
https://youtu.be/A5f360r8ajA
I don’t understand why you want a removable front bumper. It’s a two person job to keep from scratching the paint on your fenders, there is a mounting bolt on each tip.
The way it is being described to me is that it will be super simple to do at Will but if you were right and I imagine you are then I suspect I will settle in for a year or so with one look or another
Chris,
With all due respect. I think mounting/unmounting the front bumper is pretty easy. If you aren't certain you can be careful, use a double layer of 2" masking tape to protect the fenders (remove once you get the end bolts started. For a shade-tree mechanic, 15min tops. For an OCD cautious person, how about 1 hour?
BUMPER: Scott, you are missing parts on the backside of the front bumper. The over-riders come in from the front, and then on the back side are some odd shaped (trapezoid-ish) metal blocks which provide a flat mounting surface on the inside. This is where the mount arms attach. I noticed that on the table he shows you both a 73 and a 72(and earlier) mounting arm. The 1973 mount arms have a diamond shaped loop at the front. This is the arm that your guy says provides upper and lower bolt holes. But if you have a 72 and earlier bumper you might as well go with the simpler, lighter, 72 and earlier mounting arms. As far as those 72 and earlier arms he is holding, they aren't right. They are a simple flat piece of steel with a right angle turn at the front end where the bumper mounts. The ones in the video look like they have an extra plate welded onto them at the rear to form what is commonly called an "L" channel (L because that's the cross section). You really need to get a picture of a full 1972 front bumper setup with all of the parts laid out on the ground. Without this reference, your guy might screw this up.
John
With all due respect. I think mounting/unmounting the front bumper is pretty easy. If you aren't certain you can be careful, use a double layer of 2" masking tape to protect the fenders (remove once you get the end bolts started. For a shade-tree mechanic, 15min tops. For an OCD cautious person, how about 1 hour?
BUMPER: Scott, you are missing parts on the backside of the front bumper. The over-riders come in from the front, and then on the back side are some odd shaped (trapezoid-ish) metal blocks which provide a flat mounting surface on the inside. This is where the mount arms attach. I noticed that on the table he shows you both a 73 and a 72(and earlier) mounting arm. The 1973 mount arms have a diamond shaped loop at the front. This is the arm that your guy says provides upper and lower bolt holes. But if you have a 72 and earlier bumper you might as well go with the simpler, lighter, 72 and earlier mounting arms. As far as those 72 and earlier arms he is holding, they aren't right. They are a simple flat piece of steel with a right angle turn at the front end where the bumper mounts. The ones in the video look like they have an extra plate welded onto them at the rear to form what is commonly called an "L" channel (L because that's the cross section). You really need to get a picture of a full 1972 front bumper setup with all of the parts laid out on the ground. Without this reference, your guy might screw this up.
John
I will pass this information onto Gary. I am hoping he has that diagram you’re referring to but if not do you know where I might be able to locate it? I believe someone sent us a bunch of materials that he is working from
John,
Removal is easy but it’s a two man job to make sure you don’t scratch the paint. Ask Stan about the fun we had installating his, it’s not fun if you have the proper rubber grommets.
Removal is easy but it’s a two man job to make sure you don’t scratch the paint. Ask Stan about the fun we had installating his, it’s not fun if you have the proper rubber grommets.
and the parts diagram on realoem is pretty clear that if you use the early bumpers and mount arms, you need that internal metal block.
Scott, here are 2 pictures. Not the best because I don't have a second set of the inside bits.
Anyway,
PICTURE #1: this is a shot of the backside of the front bumper (left,driver side). This is a 72 and earlier bumper. Please note that the front overrider is equipped with a long threaded bolt that comes back thru the end and center piece. I have not installed the 2 bolts (upper/lower) that connect the end and center pieces, but you can see the holes for them. In this picture, it looks like the 72 and earlier bumper mount arm won't work because there's no wide-flat area on the backside of the center section (where the bolt comes thru).
But, between the backside of the bumper and the front of the mount arm is a metal "block". It is NOT shown in Picture #1.
now, PICTURE #2> this is the bumper installed on my E9.
Look carefully between the front of the mounting arm and the backside of the chrome bumper. You should be able to just make out a grey colored block of metal that fills the gap between the bumper and the mount arm. That block is what you need. Even if you want to go with the 1973 mount arms, you STILL NEED that metal block (BMW part 51111810527/51111810528, PICTURE #3). You can look it up via realoem.com and the diagram will help your shop figure out why they can't figure out how your bumper is supposed to mount. I'll bet they have a computer at the shop so you could even show them that they have access to parts diagrams to help them figure all this out themselves ...
Finally comment: about those mounting arms. See the yellow arrow in PICTURE #4. The arrow indicates the flange on your mount arms that is not suppose to be there. If you think about it, how can a "L" section like what's shown in the video pass thru a simple narrow slot in the front valance? It can't because that flange is not correct. The early mount arm should be a simple flat bar with a hook at the front end. Note the shape of the mount arm in PICTURE #3.
Anyway,
PICTURE #1: this is a shot of the backside of the front bumper (left,driver side). This is a 72 and earlier bumper. Please note that the front overrider is equipped with a long threaded bolt that comes back thru the end and center piece. I have not installed the 2 bolts (upper/lower) that connect the end and center pieces, but you can see the holes for them. In this picture, it looks like the 72 and earlier bumper mount arm won't work because there's no wide-flat area on the backside of the center section (where the bolt comes thru).
But, between the backside of the bumper and the front of the mount arm is a metal "block". It is NOT shown in Picture #1.
now, PICTURE #2> this is the bumper installed on my E9.
Look carefully between the front of the mounting arm and the backside of the chrome bumper. You should be able to just make out a grey colored block of metal that fills the gap between the bumper and the mount arm. That block is what you need. Even if you want to go with the 1973 mount arms, you STILL NEED that metal block (BMW part 51111810527/51111810528, PICTURE #3). You can look it up via realoem.com and the diagram will help your shop figure out why they can't figure out how your bumper is supposed to mount. I'll bet they have a computer at the shop so you could even show them that they have access to parts diagrams to help them figure all this out themselves ...
Finally comment: about those mounting arms. See the yellow arrow in PICTURE #4. The arrow indicates the flange on your mount arms that is not suppose to be there. If you think about it, how can a "L" section like what's shown in the video pass thru a simple narrow slot in the front valance? It can't because that flange is not correct. The early mount arm should be a simple flat bar with a hook at the front end. Note the shape of the mount arm in PICTURE #3.
if you think there are a lot of details in this ... try looking into an engine swap. more than 150 individual items (once the engine is together)
on a black car, you hardly notice if the grommets are there or not.
Scott, I assume you know everything I'm going to say and that you've spent countless hours on this site to get part numbers and part diagrams for yourself and for the shop. Without this sort of stuff of a full set of OEM parts, the shop is just guessing at what they're doing. Not good.
- browse to www.realoem.com
- Then click on the text that says "Click here to enter BMW catalog"
- Then at the far left there's Catalog selection box where you should pick "classic"
- Then start making your series choice "2.5CS-3.0CLS "
- Then pick "3.0CS"
- Then pick a date for which you want diagrams. For your bumper, I suggest you pick a date prior to 9/1972.
- Then pick, "Manual"
- Then a button will appear below which is labeled "Browse" Don't think about it, just cliiiccckk iiitttt.
- Scroll down the images and click the one that looks like a car body and is labeled "VEHICLE TRIM"
- Scroll down till you get to the section with bumper diagrams for pre 1973 (labeled "BUMPER BRACKET, FRONT") or 1973 (labeled "BUMPER USA, FRONT"), 1973, and big aluminum ones that you took off your car. You will pick the early or the 1973 depending on how you want your bumpers to mount. Note, if you pick the 1973 version, you'll need more parts.
"Removal is easy but it’s a two man job to make sure you don’t scratch the paint. Ask Stan about the fun we had installaing his, it’s not fun if you have the proper rubber grommets."
I have the proper rubber grommets (well, the ones I got from Mario). I installed my rear and front single handedly without scratching anything. The rear was a PITA but the front was pretty easy. I've done it twice because I wanted to try the look without a bumper (just like Scott). I think what took the longest was to find 2 cardboard boxes that would hold the bumper at just the right height so I could slide the 2 arms back straight into the rubber grommets.
Just to spite all you babies, I'm going to pull off my front bumper and then reinstall this weekend and have my kid time me. Every scratch counts is a 1 hour penalty...
Now that I think about it, perhaps it was hard to push Stan's bar into the slot because you forgot the astroglide
I have the proper rubber grommets (well, the ones I got from Mario). I installed my rear and front single handedly without scratching anything. The rear was a PITA but the front was pretty easy. I've done it twice because I wanted to try the look without a bumper (just like Scott). I think what took the longest was to find 2 cardboard boxes that would hold the bumper at just the right height so I could slide the 2 arms back straight into the rubber grommets.
Just to spite all you babies, I'm going to pull off my front bumper and then reinstall this weekend and have my kid time me. Every scratch counts is a 1 hour penalty...
Now that I think about it, perhaps it was hard to push Stan's bar into the slot because you forgot the astroglide
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