so much for the thought of an engine swap then, although I would love to convert to fuel injection and lose my new carbs some day....
The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby
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so much for the thought of an engine swap then, although I would love to convert to fuel injection and lose my new carbs some day....
“Lose my carbs”
I often here people complain about carbs. In my experience, a system in a good condition and state of tune will work very well, yes the 1974-76 carb’d setups are less reliable due to the hodgepodge of tacked on emissions controls. But if you can configure an E9 back to 73 or earlier then the carb setup should offer good reliability and decent performance. Converting to modern FI does have value in terms of performance, but an E9 is a vintage car and I personally don’t care for the approach some take of trying to totally modernize these classics. I have a couple carb’s cars from the 50’s and 60’s and they are dead nuts reliable even though they are 99.6% original in configuration. They start right up every time, even after a 4 month winter slumber. But they do need to be drive like a classic car, which includes warming them up, loaded up plugs around town, etc. all part of the experience.
I have had bmws with both mechanical and electromechanical FI from the E9 period and I did not find any of them to be more trouble free. And there is a bit of romance in a beautifully crafted piece of precision aluminum and brass that I just don’t find in a 4-layer PCB with a microprocessor doing my thinking for me.
I often here people complain about carbs. In my experience, a system in a good condition and state of tune will work very well, yes the 1974-76 carb’d setups are less reliable due to the hodgepodge of tacked on emissions controls. But if you can configure an E9 back to 73 or earlier then the carb setup should offer good reliability and decent performance. Converting to modern FI does have value in terms of performance, but an E9 is a vintage car and I personally don’t care for the approach some take of trying to totally modernize these classics. I have a couple carb’s cars from the 50’s and 60’s and they are dead nuts reliable even though they are 99.6% original in configuration. They start right up every time, even after a 4 month winter slumber. But they do need to be drive like a classic car, which includes warming them up, loaded up plugs around town, etc. all part of the experience.
I have had bmws with both mechanical and electromechanical FI from the E9 period and I did not find any of them to be more trouble free. And there is a bit of romance in a beautifully crafted piece of precision aluminum and brass that I just don’t find in a 4-layer PCB with a microprocessor doing my thinking for me.
@bfeng I pulled the diagrams and all your information above and sent to Gary. I can't believe how freaking complicated it is. Do you think I should ultimately gather up all this information into a single thread for bumper conversion to help others? Seems like there is no definitive information on how to replace bumpers. Let me know how it goes with the experiment on removing the bumper and putting it back on. I really love the idea of being able to take bumper on and off in 15 min or so, by myself or with my wife.
It’s actually not that complicated unless you try to do it with no experience and no parts diagrams. That why many of us go to experienced E9 experts.
In a perfect world, I would prefer to keep the engine as original as possible but it seems that because I live at approximately 6000 feet in altitude and often travel to C Level adjusting the car versus something I need to learn how to do myself or find someone along the way they can do it as needed.
@dang, I sent all your information to Gary, and he gave me a list of what we need to order based upon the drawings. There are 2 versions of 2 of the parts and not sure which one to get. Any thoughts are appreciated. Also, is w&n best source for this stuff, or ? Thanks so much.
there are 2 versions of #8. which one should i get?
08 Bushing LINKS 1 51111802067 $17.16
Fg -> 2 240 391 / 3.0 Cs/Usa
Fg -> 2 250 319 / 3.0 Csa/Usa
08 Bushing RECHTS 1 51111802068 $17.16
Fg -> 2 240 391 / 3.0 Cs/Usa
Fg -> 2 250 319 / 3.0 Csa/Usa
same for #19
19 Base LINKS 1 51111823147 $19.31
Fg -> 2 240 391 / 3.0 Cs/Usa
Fg -> 2 250 319 / 3.0 Csa/Usa
19 Base RECHTS 1 51111823148 $19.31
Fg -> 2 240 391 / 3.0 Cs/Usa
Fg -> 2 250 319 / 3.0 Csa/Usa
there are 2 versions of #8. which one should i get?
08 Bushing LINKS 1 51111802067 $17.16
Fg -> 2 240 391 / 3.0 Cs/Usa
Fg -> 2 250 319 / 3.0 Csa/Usa
08 Bushing RECHTS 1 51111802068 $17.16
Fg -> 2 240 391 / 3.0 Cs/Usa
Fg -> 2 250 319 / 3.0 Csa/Usa
same for #19
19 Base LINKS 1 51111823147 $19.31
Fg -> 2 240 391 / 3.0 Cs/Usa
Fg -> 2 250 319 / 3.0 Csa/Usa
19 Base RECHTS 1 51111823148 $19.31
Fg -> 2 240 391 / 3.0 Cs/Usa
Fg -> 2 250 319 / 3.0 Csa/Usa
HA! I was about to make the same comment. I took the bumper off myself but didn't care if I scratched as the car was about to be repainted. For some reason, putting it back on was challenging to say the least!
I'll agree. Most of my coupes have been carb'd while only two have been injected; IMHO there is something about the carbureted/manual setup that is more appealing than fuel injection. I don't have great words to describe it. Maybe the ride is more gentlemanly, refined, or relaxed but there is something in the driving that just feels a little better. My injected coupes were more reliable and powerful by far but there is a silkiness to a smooth running carb'd coupe that is hard to beat. What I don't like about the carbs is that they need some loving to start up when cold, so I can't hop in and drive like I can injected cars; I have to sit there and let the car warm up first. The other thing is that it is getting harder to find people that work on them which means you have to learn some of the basic stuff yourself.
Scott, Those are just left (links) and right (rechts) and are for 73 style bumpers. The rubber grommet should be the same for earlier coupes. Number 19 is a more rigid mount and may not be needed as the 72 style just used a rubber trim and a bolt and spacer thru the fender.
Lol I feel like a complete idiot. So, final question, do I need for 72 style bumpers then?
Which bumpers do you already have? If they are 72 you don’t need those, if they are 73 you need them.
They are 73 bumpers, but we are trying to use 72 brackets, so does that dictate which version of these other parts I should get?
If the 73 bumper fits on the large front brackets I think you need the 73 side mounts. It’s pretty obvious if you look inside the trailing edge of the bumper corner. The 72 bolts to the body, the 73 bolts to that unique mount which then mounts the body.
Hey you are paying attention to my comments on BAT. 
Regarding the seamless body (no seam from nose-to-fender-to-a-pillar).
Regarding the seamless body (no seam from nose-to-fender-to-a-pillar).
of course! Fascinating. Glad you watch my videos. How can i improve them and my mini-restoration?Hey you are paying attention to my comments on BAT.
Yes I like watching your videos. If you want to have fun editing you can have pop ups with links to the parts they show in the video.
Sounds tedious.I also watched your drone footage of the penthouse party. Now I need a drone damn it!
All clearly shown in the diagrams on realism.com. Gotta show your shop guys so they have an accurate reference.
Chris, funny thing about the eBay stainless bumpers. The guy got parts from RonP, but Ron sent him a 73 front and a 72 rear. This is why Mario could not fit the front after he had drilled holes for a 72.
Gary wrote later that it appears there are seamsHey you are paying attention to my comments on BAT.
Well they are separate pieces welded together. There are no visible seams and the fenders don’t bolt on like 90% of cars.
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