The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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Isn't it Andrew W. that has something like 5 sets of staggered E9 rims from various companies? Or maybe it's another E9 noreaster (Stan knows who I'm talking about).
 
teahead said:
Square wheels, but staggered tires so you can't rotate which is fine I never do.


Scott, just keep what you have. You're overthinking all this.

As far as sway bars, drive on what you have now. Then install the ST setup If you like it, good If not remove them and resell them. Pretty simple
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Agreed. After talking with @sfdon, I decided that for now, I don't need rear anti-sway bars. It is a 74 and didn't come stock with them, and it will only make coupe much stiffer. I will try driving without for a few months and reconsider. Thanks all for your thoughts on this. Agreed on the tires too. Thanks.
 
It is a 74 and didn't come stock with them, and it will only make coupe much stiffer.
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Was it an option then ? Parts catalogue leads a part number for the rear sway bar, 3,0 CS , 74 US version. I thought every 3 litre coupe got both, front and rear sway bars. E9s are always surprising .... :)
 
A very good day!

Basically, I walked off the ledge on the anti-sway bars and decided not to get them now, but revisit later. Great to chat with @sfdon again. Great guy.

He told me I needed Camber Plates from Carl. I thought I had everything I needed, but Gary agreed. Anything else? I sent Carl an email waiting to hear back.

I finally talked to the local wood guy. He really knows his shit. He said whoever redid my wood last time didn't do me any favors. He knows A LOT about this stuff. He committed to my deadline, which I told him could be as soon as 3 weeks, but more likely 6 weeks. He couldn't quote me a price just yet, but his hourly is $75/hour, and he said it could easily end up being $1000, which I took as the high end. It's all labor. He will know more after he tries on one piece. Does anyone know what material/wood the Nardi wheel is made of? He seemed to think it was some sort of African Mahogany. I read with great interest the other thread on wood dash, and seems that there is no perfect way to do dash wood and you have some liberty to deviate from stock. Assuming that is the case, I'd like my wood dash to compliment, if not match, my steering wheel from nardi and shifter. Any clues on what to tell him on that wood?

That was a relief because otherwise I'd have to send to Bella, which is not a problem, but the shipping and time may have been an issue.

Walked off the ledge on the staggered wheels issue. Thanks to all for telling me I'm ok.

Ordered some more stuff for engine compartment, stickers and sound proofing, so that should be tight.

May have tracked down a source in Europe thanks to this forum to get the defroster vents and under rider for bumper, aka the horns. Gary said we can do that later.

So, all in all, I feel pretty good today where we stand.

It's not too late to change color? LOL

Any bets on when I will be on the road?

Thanks so much for all your help, esp @bfeng who sent me a TON of information on racing. Next, can you help me convert MY BABY to a race car? Just kidding, sort of.

Scott
 
Just sent this to Gary/Benny:

I thought I would summarize a few open issues to help stay on track. We can go over this together when I am there later this week.

  • Parts:
    • As of now, I have ordered all parts that are available. Some should be on their way to you if not arrived, while select others, e.g. new bracket for front bumper, hood insulators, defroster vents, camber things, rotors and brakes, engine stickers, control arms, etc., are on their way. I may want to compare what you received to date vs. what I ordered when I am there next to confirm all is well.
    • The following parts are unavailable, and we will work around:
      • Under Riders for rear bumper; we can omit for now
      • Elephant Skin for Trunk; we can paint trunk for now instead
      • sound proofing material for interior of engine; i think we can omit, unless you feel it is important and we need to make ourselves.
    • I did NOT order new anti-sway bars.
    • I ordered belt trim spacers, which I am told are HIGHLY recommended to ensure the paint is not damaged when you put the belt trim back on.
  • Wood:
    • Russ committed to getting this done within about 3 weeks time, which I believe should give you adequate time to install and finish. I will keep you posted.
  • Interior:
    • Benny, you mentioned you had a source to look at this. I'd be interested in this, provided it does not delay overall process.
  • Clock and Odometer:
    • Gary is fixing on his time, and I will pay. Gary, let me know how this goes as there is a replacement clock available if needed for $200.
  • Rear Bumper:
    • I know I ordered the rubber for this, but wondering if we can rechrome to close the holes and omit rubber. Not a huge deal as I suspect we can possibly revisit this later.
  • Schedule:
    • Let me know when I should come by this week to check status. Ideally, I'd like to do another video showing the rust remediation you are doing with full description etc. and use that funky camera things before you close up the rocker holes, if you have not done so already.
    • Assuming all goes according to plan, are we closer to understanding approximate final completion date. I am not trying to pressure you, but just trying to plan a road trip in early May.
  • Budget:
    • Last we talked, we were at ~$16k, with $9k paid, but there have been some additions since then. If we can get agreement on where we are as of today, with estimate to complete it would be great.
Am I missing anything?
 
can somebody give a pic of those " Camber Plates from Carl" ? i'm wondering what that could be . Or are those the common plates to be welded in the towers as we have ?
 
Belgiumbarry said:
can somebody give a pic of those " Camber Plates from Carl" ? i'm wondering what that could be . Or are those the common plates to be welded in the towers as we have ?
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They look exactly like this, helps alot to keep 16" wheels from the fender. I also have them.

02fcp.jpg
 
Hey Robert , thanks ! so i assume those are drilled out center , mounting the plate as far as possible to the inside and taking the struts again off center to the inside... any idea of how much gain there is on top ?

we have plates welded in which allow a camber "setting" by sliding the strut and fix it with bolts.
 
Belgiumbarry said:
your first goal was 8k... so i guess x 4 .. gives 32k ?
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If you include cost of:
  • bumpers and rechroming
  • BBS wheels and tires
  • wood refurbishment
  • various other parts, e.g. all new rubber, springs/shocks, see 39 pages above
Excluding the $$$$ Bill Arnold in SF for installing new carbs, fast windows, doors, and my Boise shop with new cylinder head, camshaft, etc., I think all in costs over past 8 months plus paint has been well over $32k. If someone told me that at the start, i would have freaked out, big time, but I am glad I am doing it.

Other than minor interior tweaks and 5 speed and fuel injection, which I understand to be costly, I think I'm done for a very long time.... famous last words.

When do I retitle this thread to FULL RESTORATION?
 
Belgiumbarry said:
Hey Robert , thanks ! so i assume those are drilled out center , mounting the plate as far as possible to the inside and taking the struts again off center to the inside... any idea of how much gain there is on top ?

we have plates welded in which allow a camber "setting" by sliding the strut and fix it with bolts.
Click to expand...

Yes, they are off-center and puts the strut top a little bit inwards, towards the engine. They should add 0,5 degrees negative camber, which doesn't sound much, but sure does help.
I don't have any pictures of the strut top after I installed them, but here is another photo I found on the forum, our member bimbills car, you can see that the strut isn't centered in the hole anymore:

passenger side.jpg


Your adjustable solution is better for sure, but this keep things looking stock, and is an easy modification:)
 
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