The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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in looking up bmw black on paintref.com ... the cross references for glasurit 086 schwarz are dupont 99, RM BASF 12574 + Ditzler PPG 9000 + 9300.
 
rsporsche said:
in looking up bmw black on paintref.com ... the cross references for glasurit 086 schwarz are dupont 99, RM BASF 12574 + Ditzler PPG 9000 + 9300.
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Is it safe to assume that I can expect I need to do this cross reference or should I send this to him? I’m trying to get my communications to a minimum so as not to overwhelm
 
from the looks of it, its your basic non-metallic black that is used on a ton of cars / models. i agree with Chris ... the painter can figure it out.
 
Having done a very small amount of painting, and have cars that were repainted, I'd rank Glasurit #1 (it has been the OE for most German cars for a long time, and is probably the most expensive), and Ditzler PPG best of the 'Made in America' brand names. (and, I'm a retiree of DuPont - but never worked in the paint business).

Gary--
 
So, just got back today, and was excited to see what I had hoped was a fully painted coupe, only to find the door locked and no real progress. I called Benny and he said they are painting on Monday. I asked how long it takes to cure, and he said about a week or so. I trust him. I am still hoping/planning on being on the road by May 15, fingers crossed.
https://youtu.be/cys7PLowqrY

 
Just another data point. I had some paint work done on my Alfa and I'm waiting a full 4 weeks before putting the trim back on. I see no reason to put the paint job (glasurit $$$) at risk because I want to drive the car a couple weeks early. Now, if Benny gives you a full guaranty that the paint wont be creased or torn because the belt-line trim slid around as they tighted the mounting nuts. Then go for it. And by guarantee, I mean if he screws up the paint, he's going to redo the car without asking you for a penny.

John
 
bfeng said:
Just another data point. I had some paint work done on my Alfa and I'm waiting a full 4 weeks before putting the trim back on. I see no reason to put the paint job (glasurit $$$) at risk because I want to drive the car a couple weeks early. Now, if Benny gives you a full guaranty that the paint wont be creased or torn because the belt-line trim slid around as they tighted the mounting nuts. Then go for it. And by guarantee, I mean if he screws up the paint, he's going to redo the car without asking you for a penny.

John
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I will ask for that guarantee but based upon the work that he has done that I have seen and have been informed about this is not his first rodeo and I have to trust that if he puts me on the road that I will be fine. He is not willing to guarantee any rust that was not repaired but I can’t imagine that he would not guarantee this. Thank you
 
A quote from James as he describes the car he is selling:

jamesw said:
Thanks Jerry - I appreciate it. It's funny - I still work at the same company as John's wife and we see each-other at work. When I drive the car to the office I sure hope that she has fond memories when she sees the car.

This is not a perfect #1 car guys but it is a nice one. The few "warts" I can think of are:

The body-shop did not do a good job on the top seems when they did the work on the front fenders. They put a lot of seam sealer on them.
The exhaust shop that ran the pipes back from the Stahl headers did not do a good job either. A coupeking SS exhaust would be an easy fix but honestly - it's under the car so I don't care if it's ugly lol.
The painter put the belt-line trim on too early and there are 2 or 3 nickel sized areas where it wrinkled the paint.[/b]
The clock doesn't work

Cheers
James
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Painting TODAY. Heading over there now to take a video, but here are some stills with sealer on it.
IMG_4907.jpeg
IMG_4910.jpeg
IMG_4908.jpeg
 
OMG. The day has come. My Baby got painted! Looking good. Tomorrow gets clear coat. Benny still thinks I will be on the road by May 15th, and is not concerned about curing. As he has said, this ain't his first rodeo. I have to imagine that the "belt trim" on the coupe is not that different from similar trim on other period cars he has done. Is that right?

Here's the video

 
maybe if he bakes the shit out of it and the trim is the very LAST thing he does. 2 weeks seems awfully short.

I'm hoping at least 5 coats of clear as the cut and buff will take off a few coats.
 
teahead said:
maybe if he bakes the shit out of it and the trim is the very LAST thing he does. 2 weeks seems awfully short.

I'm hoping at least 5 coats of clear as the cut and buff will take off a few coats.
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I think he’s planning on doing three coats. I suspect I can pay him for more?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
teahead said:
guess it depends what products being used. Urethane is thick so probably 3 coats are fine.
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Five would be too many. Clear usually goes on pretty heavy to get it to lay down nice and if goes on really well you don't have to sand off as much.

tii_door_reflection.jpg


Wet sanded 2002 door
 
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Baking the paint will help. The nuts need to be finger tight, the issue is that the trim can move which will wrinkle the paint. Same result if overtightened.
 
Even a light tightening of the trim still puts a lot of force on the paint at that spot. With new soft paint and a slight shift of the trim as it gets tightened and voila - heartbreak.
 
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