The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

[JFENG]

The strut top reinforcement is much much easier to do now with the car all apart. They can do it before or after they paint.

Rather than a “big washer” it should be trivial to have them mill out a couple steel discs from 3/16” steel plate.

 

[Markos]

Very silly question. My bright light indicator is very dim and hard to see at all. I rarely drive at night and utilize bright lights off and so it is not a big deal but wondering how easy it is to remedy this.

You have the cluster out so you can replace the bulbs with new ones quickly and easily. The bulbs are accessible on the backside of the cluster. You will spend more time finding the right bulbs than installing them.

 

[teahead]

Try a super-bright LED replacement. One that has 360 degree output.

 

[Markos]

The strut top reinforcement is much much easier to do now with the car all apart. They can do it before or after they paint.

Rather than a “big washer” it should be trivial to have them mill out a couple steel discs from 3/16” steel plate.

It doesn't make sense to spend time or money milling a circle. You can buy steel discs all day long. Here you go, $2.50 each on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-Steel...eter-1875-A36-Steel-Round-Circle/192248841872

 

[autokunst]

You can buy steel discs all day long. Here you go, $2.50 each on eBay.

You've got to love the enterprising individual that came up with the idea of selling punch scraps off their employer's floor on eBay. I wish I'd thought of that. If only I could sell paper out of our recycling bin...

 

[teahead]

Well...the milled "hat" shown earlier can, as aforementioned, be installed w/adhesive panel glue and thus, avoid the need for welding. Also can give support not only on the top, but on the sides.

 

[autokunst]

Well...the milled "hat" shown earlier can, as aforementioned, be installed w/adhesive panel glue and thus, avoid the need for welding. Also can give support not only on the top, but on the sides.

It is my understanding (or perhaps conjecture?) that the failure point of the rear towers is not the top, flatter part. Rather, it lies in the stresses and hardening that is developed in the curved part that has been stretched into shape originally, and has transferred impact loads for 40 some years since. To Rob's point, the milled cap solution replaces this stressed section and connects down lower to the cylindrical section where the load is almost purely tensile and in the direction of the metal - thus much less likely to be fatigued like the top (regardless of whether it is glued or welded - that is another debate). I like the proposed advantages of gluing if the parts fit up nicely. But if the car is completely apart (bare chassis) and not painted yet (I am thinking of my car eventually), I'd likely weld a solution in.

 

[scottevest]

You have the cluster out so you can replace the bulbs with new ones quickly and easily. The bulbs are accessible on the backside of the cluster. You will spend more time finding the right bulbs than installing them.

Any ideas for the best source of this?

 

[Markos]

Any ideas for the best source of this?

No clue!

It is my understanding (or perhaps conjecture?) that the failure point of the rear towers is not the top, flatter part.

When I do mine I'm going to use a full size cup that fits inside, drill holes in the original cup and plug weld the sides. I guarantee that there is something made of steel that is already in the market place that fit just perfectly in that cup. Just need to find it. My parts-finding skills are far superior to my welding abilities so I'm not too worried.

 

[autokunst]

Mark, I interpret those two images as (1) with a failure at the curved transition, and (1) more on the flat part. Essentially everywhere except the cylindrical shaft (which we're all talking about welding/gluing to). Am I interpreting the images as you'd intended?

Yes, that replacement/reinforcement part must exist. If it doesn't it should. Any cross pollination to 2002s or E3s? If it is the same size, that should make it that much more available.

 

[Markos]

Mark, I interpret those two images as (1) with a failure at the curved transition, and (1) more on the flat part. Essentially everywhere except the cylindrical shaft (which we're all talking about welding/gluing to). Am I interpreting the images as you'd intended?

It appears to me that if you get a disc that is large enough to reach the edge of the curve, that should cover the problem area. It makes sense that the flat part fails and the curve doesn't. Tying into the walls would be ideal, which is my plan.

 

[Stevehose]

This is what i meant by "big washer" perhaps i should have gone deep south and said "big assed washer"

It appears to me that if you get a disc that is large enough to reach the edge of the curve, that should cover the problem area. It makes sense that the flat part fails and the curve doesn't. Tying into the walls would be ideal, which is my plan.

 

[teahead]

On a tower that has NOT yet blown through, I don't know how putting a flat washer on top (even a "big ass" one) would reach the rounded edge of the tower since there kind of already is a washer there:

 

[autokunst]

On a tower that has NOT yet blown through, I don't know how putting a flat washer on top (even a "big ass" one) would reach the rounded edge of the tower since there kind of already is a washer there:

Right. And to cut the tower down to the bottom of the curved transition for a flat washer means shortening your strut attachment by about an inch. This is why I think a domed or dished solution that attaches directly to the cylindrical part is the only true "reinforcement".

 

[Stevehose]

I disagree. It appears that the curved part is the weakness but instead the inner piece with the thin washer with the crappy spot welds eventually gives way to the pounding then tears away towards the curved part. The old CS Registry is full of refernces to this and the fix was (even in the 80's) to weld a reinforcement washer over this area (later than this article which only suggests more welds). From 1980:

It is my understanding (or perhaps conjecture?) that the failure point of the rear towers is not the top, flatter part. Rather, it lies in the stresses and hardening that is developed in the curved part that has been stretched into shape originally, and has transferred impact loads for 40 some years since. To Rob's point, the milled cap solution replaces this stressed section and connects down lower to the cylindrical section where the load is almost purely tensile and in the direction of the metal - thus much less likely to be fatigued like the top (regardless of whether it is glued or welded - that is another debate). I like the proposed advantages of gluing if the parts fit up nicely. But if the car is completely apart (bare chassis) and not painted yet (I am thinking of my car eventually), I'd likely weld a solution in.

 

[autokunst]

The old CS Registry is full of refernces to this and the fix was (even in the 80's) to weld a reinforcement washer over this area (later than this article which only suggests more welds). From 1980:

Thanks fpr digging that up, Steve - I love reading the history!!! This has re-shaped my understanding of this area. And it clarifies for me the discussed difference between "reinforcing" a still intact tower with the "big ass washer" solution and "repairing" an already failed and torn top section with a domed/cup solution. And it simplifies the step that Scott would want to take to have Benny and crew reinforce his towers.

 

[scottevest]

I REALLY appreciate all the input here. Would it be too much to ask if someone could send me precisely the language/drawings/etc i need to provide Gary/Benny to avoid any confusion on this that tells them exactly what must be done and how? Thanks in advance.

 

[autokunst]

Scott, I am assuming a sketch (or photograph) of this reinforcement detail exists already - and that someone will have/find/link it. If not, I can certainly sketch up my understanding of what we're talking about and post it for commentary and potential use - but I might not get to it until later this weekend. I'll stay tuned and look out for the potential pre-existing drawing.

 

[Stevehose]

More here:

https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/rear-shocks-springs-and-sway-bar-install.7282/#post-45388

 

[scottevest]

Getting very excited to see some pictures of the painted coupe, although having second thoughts on painting black, and wondering if too late to paint it silver/polaris instead. I think Benny would kill me, but not sure if he has "purchased" paint yet, and if it matters. My wife thinks I am crazy. I am just dreading how dirty black would look.

So, any thoughts on if paint shops purchase paint in advance and if it's thus too late to change, or if they just mix it the day of painting and then I could change it. Still not sure I would change but can't help but wonder. I know that the prep work for a black car is more extensive since it shows every imperfection.

Am I crazy?