The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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bfeng said:
I think you have some loose or broken wiring. Voltage regulators most often fail in a way that overcharges a battery. Looks like you have the opposite problem. If you know where your VR is and have a volt meter, you can run this problem down yourself.
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Thank you very much. I really do appreciate all of your help.
 
bfeng said:
Guys,
IMHO, the challenges on this project were mainly
(1) Constant scope creep, which is typical of light restorations where the more you do the more you find needs to be done.
(2) Shop with little to now experience with E9's, and also with
(2a) Seemingly little desire to become E9 experts - Scott had to go find all the info on many many things
(2b) Shop without strong mechanical expertise. In contrast, a shop like VSR1 can do any level of body restoration but Mario also has a top class mechanical shop that can do anything from a belt change to a full-on custom race motor build. This means he has IN-HOUSE expertise at E9's in all areas other than interiors (which he has done by trusted subcontractors). Mario has invested the time and $$$ to become an expert so things get done right and get done efficiently.

Timing: the problem with scope creep is, in my opinion, this.
(1) Shops need to schedule work in advance to keep their employees and shop busy.
(2) When a small project comes in the shop manager will make space in the schedule with a little wiggle room. But other projects will get booked into the schedule around assumptions as to when the simple job will be done.
(3) as the simple job grows and grows, it can screw up their schedule for other booked business.
(4) What sometimes happens is that the project that started simple is now slowing down because other customers with promised start dates have brought in their cars and expect their work to get started. The shop is now spreading more work across their same capacity, meaning everyone's project is going slower.
(5) If the total scope of Scotts project were known from the beginning, I think Mario could have finished it in 2-3 months, done a much higher quality job, and had little to no need for the owner to chase anything down.
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I completely agree with everything you said here although I am not entirely sure what other vehicles that he has planned and how my vehicle has slowed things down in particular. I don’t think he has a well oiled machine going on. I agree with everything else you have said and sincerely appreciate all your help in particular.
 
restart said:
Seriously?
View attachment 49118
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I will not dignify this with a response and respectfully request that you refrain from interacting with me on my thread further. You clearly have no respect for me and I have zero for you. There is no place for this sort of interaction here especially when so many others have been so very helpful. I will not be responding to any of your disrespectful and incorrect responses.
 
bfeng said:
Guys,
IMHO, the challenges on this project were mainly
(1) Constant scope creep, which is typical of light restorations where the more you do the more you find needs to be done.
(2) Shop with little to now experience with E9's, and also with
(2a) Seemingly little desire to become E9 experts - Scott had to go find all the info on many many things
(2b) Shop without strong mechanical expertise. In contrast, a shop like VSR1 can do any level of body restoration but Mario also has a top class mechanical shop that can do anything from a belt change to a full-on custom race motor build. This means he has IN-HOUSE expertise at E9's in all areas other than interiors (which he has done by trusted subcontractors). Mario has invested the time and $$$ to become an expert so things get done right and get done efficiently.

Timing: the problem with scope creep is, in my opinion, this.
(1) Shops need to schedule work in advance to keep their employees and shop busy.
(2) When a small project comes in the shop manager will make space in the schedule with a little wiggle room. But other projects will get booked into the schedule around assumptions as to when the simple job will be done.
(3) as the simple job grows and grows, it can screw up their schedule for other booked business.
(4) What sometimes happens is that the project that started simple is now slowing down because other customers with promised start dates have brought in their cars and expect their work to get started. The shop is now spreading more work across their same capacity, meaning everyone's project is going slower.
(5) If the total scope of Scotts project were known from the beginning, I think Mario could have finished it in 2-3 months, done a much higher quality job, and had little to no need for the owner to chase anything down.
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RE: (5), I'm sure Mario, or CoupeKing would have done 95% of the legwork that Bennyz did not do as in chasing parts, etc., but to be fair, Scott DID have them do more than what was originally planned. Even VSR or CK would have had to communicate often to Scott on what all was needed.

Also remember, Scott bought a lot of parts and had them sent in. If VSR or CK did that, there would have been a premium for that service. Usually shops add another 25% or more markup for parts due to the time they need to order them, etc.

So sure, they could have done maybe a 20% better job and 30% faster, but it probably would have been at a cost of 50% higher if not more.
 
bfeng said:
I think you have some loose or broken wiring. Voltage regulators most often fail in a way that overcharges a battery. Looks like you have the opposite problem. If you know where your VR is and have a volt meter, you can run this problem down yourself.
Click to expand...

If I were you, I'd get an alternator w/a built-in regulator. DQ has an NOS one! But that may take too long to get from Spain.


My wire on my old alt going to the reg was completely fried.

Any E12 or old E24 (I think later E3 too? Like '75+?) alternator would interchange. Did this from the E12 I parted out.
 
In my opinion those paint defects should have been rectified before any trim got put back on the car, I think you were asked to sign off the paint prep works, were you asked to sign off the the final paint finish ?
If I was asking a professional to paint my car I would expect there to be no defects in the paint. If the shop said we can paint your car and charge you X amount but there will be some defects in the paint when you get it back I think you would go somewhere else. I don't think you are being unreasonable with your expectations regarding the paint job. I'm in a different sector (construction) but always try to ensure the client is happy with our work, if not I don't expect to get paid.
 
e9john said:
In my opinion those paint defects should have been rectified before any trim got put back on the car, I think you were asked to sign off the paint prep works, were you asked to sign off the the final paint finish ?
If I was asking a professional to paint my car I would expect there to be no defects in the paint. If the shop said we can paint your car and charge you X amount but there will be some defects in the paint when you get it back I think you would go somewhere else. I don't think you are being unreasonable with your expectations regarding the paint job. I'm in a different sector (construction) but always try to ensure the client is happy with our work, if not I don't expect to get paid.
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Thank you for your thoughts. I appreciate it. That is exactly what I would have thought and expected. The care that was given to the prep for the sign off was extreme and I just thought it would be carried through with the paint work and the reassembly. I don’t know why it wasn’t. I pointed out some issues previously of imperfections and was told that they would be taken care of at the very end but I think it’s going to be difficult to do that with all the trim on them and all the locations. Some of the members of this forum previously told me I should not harp at all on Benny at that time ~6weeks plus ago on this stuff and just let him finish, but the time to address this stuff was then, not now imo. I am hopeful that Benny will take care of all this stuff, without fuss, delay or additional money. I will document all with tape and in writing to ensure all is clear. I expect some push back, but hoping not. Benny and Gary have been great throughout and I am sure he wants to make sure I am happy. I am no expert but it does seem that some of the imperfections appear to be some dirt in the paint in places. I hope that can be resolved. I was showing it off to a friend today and from 6 feet way it looks like a million dollars.

I too am in the customer service business and know that if someone bought my products, www.scottevest.com, and they had minor defects or loose threads, etc., I would be embarrassed and take care of it without issues. I did a complete restoration of my house, see this video tour,
, and did all the design work ourselves. It was completed in 11 months, about 4 months longer than it took to do my car. No issues whatsoever, and still great friends with the general contractor and all the subs. Not sure why a bmw restoration should be harder.

Thanks again for all your support.
 
teahead said:
If I were you, I'd get an alternator w/a built-in regulator. DQ has an NOS one! But that may take too long to get from Spain.


My wire on my old alt going to the reg was completely fried.

Any E12 or old E24 (I think later E3 too? Like '75+?) alternator would interchange. Did this from the E12 I parted out.
Click to expand...

DQ's alternator is 389 euros shipped. Not sure if that is a good deal or not, or if "any e12 or e24 alternator" would be better or cheaper. Thoughts are appreciated on what you would do if it was your car. Although it would be nice to have a NOS version, not sure I care that much so long as it works reliably. It does seem odd that this became a problem after the restoration. We didn't do anything electrical, other than upgrading the headlights, which I was told would not require any additional power, etc. I will pass this information to Benny but not sure he will be helpful. Right now when I drive I'm a litter nervous I'm going to need a jump, etc.
 
You don’t need a $455 alternator. Search eBay or call Mesa Performance in Costa Mesa tomorrow. Get a modern single wire version which has an internal regulator. Then throw away the three wires between your Alt and the external regulator and just extend the thin blue wire from old regulator to D+ terminal on the new Alt. Done.
 
HB Chris said:
You don’t need a $455 alternator. Search eBay or call Mesa Performance in Costa Mesa tomorrow. Get a modern single wire version which has an internal regulator. Then throw away the three wires between your Alt and the external regulator and just extend the thin blue wire from old regulator to D+ terminal on the new Alt. Done.
Click to expand...

Thanks VERY MUCH, and nice to see you back here. I truly missed you. You have been very helpful. I drove the car lots today, being very careful not to turn on too much power especially AC, and it started every time, but when I got back home and charged it, it was down to about 30%. The question I have to figure out is if there is something wrong with the wiring causing my existing alternator not to work or if the alternator just needs replacing. I will ask Benny tomorrow. Hopefully he can track this down and do some measuring of voltage etc.

Thanks again.

Scott
 
Scott I read all the stuff later when I get time but that cartoon I posted is been bugging me I’m good other delete that right now this sort of a pencil and apologize for that
 
If Red light is on even dimly you are not charging and need to replace the Alt. If you already have a single wire Alt you can just replace the brushes/diode it is held on by two screws, they cost $15.
 
HB Chris said:
If Red light is on even dimly you are not charging and need to replace the Alt. If you already have a single wire Alt you can just replace the brushes/diode it is held on by two screws, they cost $15.
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Thanks. Yes, Red light is always on, initially full brightness, then 1/2 brightness once I get going. I will ask Benny if single wire. Honestly, I'm embarrassed to say I have no idea where the alternator is.
 
Definitely Alt or diode

142FA282-96BA-4546-BE20-F6723BC2A47D.jpeg
Below battery
 
It appears that there is a single wire going into what I think is the alternator. Does this look right to you?
 

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