The Raven e9 project

I updated my spreadsheet that I've been tracking my purchases and expenses with. Of course, I had to add the BIG WN order. Then, for the first time in several years, I totaled up my expenditures thus far. While I am sure it is much lower than many have spent, it was none the less a sobering moment. Maintaining my path of performing most of the work myself, I estimated the additional outsourced items/tasks I'll be paying for. And it is good news. This labor of love should also be firmly in the black as far as ink goes (and likely paint color). I don't know that I'd recommend others make "the spreadsheet". It is not nearly as enjoyable as working on the car.
 
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autokunst said:
I updated my spreadsheet that I've been tracking my purchases and expenses with. Of course, I had to add the BIG WN order. Then, for the first time in several years, I totaled up my expenditures thus far. While I am sure it is much lower than many have spent, it was none the less a sobering moment. Maintaining my path of performing most of the work myself, I estimated the additional outsourced items/tasks I'll be paying for. And is good news. This labor of love should also be firmly in the black as far as ink goes (and likely paint color). I don't know that I'd recommend others make "the spreadsheet". It is not nearly as enjoyable as working on the car.
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I started and quickly abandoned the spreadsheet. My wife keeps a category for the car in Quicken--looked at it once, laughed, and told her it might not accurate.
 
I've got a spreadsheet for my car, but like the car project itself, it's been stalled for a while. I'll continue with it as it's a good synopsis of the project. Getting a car that is very complete for a very good price and doing the work myself, I should come out well ahead of market value. Unfortunately, we have decided to move from Texas and that means the car and all the boxes of purchased parts will have to make the journey as well.
 
Updates have been slow going as I've been wonderfully busy with work. But I have been building and refining a plating setup so I can plate my own parts. Here are some results with some test pieces and then the first batch of actual car parts.

These were some early coupons that was using to calibrate my methods, timing, and process. As you can see, I didn't prep these particularly well, which I am realizing is key. After zinc plating, these were treated with a yellow chromate and blue/clear chromate conversion process respectively. I am very pleased with the coloration I am getting.
20201109-test pieces 1.jpg
20201109-test pieces 2.jpg


Here's the batch of car parts I did so far (brake MC and rear valve components), with some close ups of some small bolts.
20201109-plates parts.jpg
20201109plated bolt 1.jpg

20201109-plated bolt 2.jpg
 
For me, the hobby is the project so I fully support anyone who has the same interest and fun as I have with doing as much of the work (?) themselves as they can.

I've always had my zinc plating done by a shop that specializes in it, however. It's inexpensive, fast, and the finish is as good (or better) than original....both appearance and durability. Most shops are set up to do both gold and silver zinc. 99% of what they do are big industrial runs, but the ones I've used also take care of us hobbyists.

The following was about $100 US (The parts are not from a BMW).

cad 001 copy.jpg
 
Dick Steinkamp said:
For me, the hobby is the project so I fully support anyone who has the same interest and fun as I have with doing as much of the work (?) themselves as they can.

I've always had my zinc plating done by a shop that specializes in it, however. It's inexpensive, fast, and the finish is as good (or better) than original....both appearance and durability. Most shops are set up to do both gold and silver zinc. 99% of what they do are big industrial runs, but the ones I've used also take care of us hobbyists.

The following was about $100 US (The parts are not from a BMW).
Click to expand...
I don't disagree with outsourcing this work. But let me ask, did you have to prep the parts (clean, blast, wire wheel, etc) yourself? My understanding is that the outsourcing houses only plate, and for the hobbyist we have to provide the bucket of parts all ready to go. If I am doing all of that prep, it is relatively easy to finish the plating, too. I could be wrong, but I do enjoy the satisfaction I get from doing this myself (provided I get good durability). And the cost will end up in my favor if I don't assign value to my own time.

Another benefit is that I can do batches of plating in sequence with what I am working on at the time. So it will be easier for me to keep track of all the little nuts and bolts as I go. The local place here prices by "the bucket". Great value, but all the parts are comingled in that bucket.

I may completely change my tune if the parts aren't durable. I am leaving those test coupons outside all winter to see how they resist water and salt. I'll also want to test the adhesion tenacity.
 
Stephen,
Yes...you have to clean the parts yourself if you have a pro shop plate them. The better job you do cleaning them...the better they turn out. It is satisfying to clean parts. A quick and visible reward for the time spent.

The shops I've used also charge by the bucket and co mingle the parts. It can make it difficult to remember what went where...especially fasteners. Doing small batches yourself makes that easier for sure.

The parts you have done are beautiful! :cool:
 
I use a local shop that does industrial scale plating but was willing to take on small orders. I clean them but I don’t wire wheel them, the exception is paint which must be removed first.
 
Stephen,

Your results are excellent. It's not easy to get great plating results - I know. As a chemistry project in HS (back in the days of Alchemy), it did several plating projects. Enjoyed the process, but never found the time or re-established the interest to do it in my adulthood. Well Done.

Gary
 
Gary Knox said:
Stephen,
Your results are excellent. It's not easy to get great plating results - I know. As a chemistry project in HS (back in the days of Alchemy), it did several plating projects. Enjoyed the process, but never found the time or re-established the interest to do it in my adulthood. Well Done.
Gary
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Thank you so much Gary. That makes me feel good. What I am not posting are the first few rounds of results which were less than stellar. There was a learning curve to getting my solutions, and my timing and process dialed in. But today, despite the work piling up on my desk (actually dining room table), I ran out and ran a few more parts. While I am still no expert, this is starting to prove a few things:
- I don't need to carve out an entire weekend day to do this. I was able to get the system up and running pretty quickly.
- My results seem to be repeatable. This was one of my biggest concerns. I've pretty much figured out what works, and also a lot of stuff that doesn't. Still a lot to learn, though.

Here are some more bolts I did today. The photo doesn't do the color I'm getting justice (in my opinion).
20201110-more small bolts.jpg


Bmachine said:
That looks great Stephen!
Any pics of the actual plating setup?
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Bo, I snapped a pic of my crude setup for you. It would be much more comfortable if I set everything up on a table or bench. But I don't have room for that. So I store these buckets under my bench when not in use, then lay them out on the floor for the operation. Left to right:
- cleaner/degreaser tank and rinse tank. I run this 180 to 190 degrees F (getting to this temp is what takes the longest). I also have a spray bottle of distilled water to really rinse parts after each step.
- Etch tank and etch rinse. This is about a 3% concentration of HCl.
- Plating tank and rinse. I run this bath at 110 degrees, and have a pump agitating the solution constantly. I use two large, very pure zinc plate anodes.
- Yellow chromate tank and rinse. I run this one at 80 degrees, no agitation.
- Blue/clear chromate tank and rinse. Room temp.
- DC power supply with constant, precise amperage control. I run .14amps per square inch of surface area. I also have a larger (30amp) power supply that I'll need for, say, brake calipers, but it hasn't been working for me.

20201110-plating setup.jpg
 
I've been very busy with work, but still sneaking out to make progress here and there. My main push right now has been to finish up some hydraulic component rebuilds, after which I plan to move to the chassis sheet metal work.

I rebuilt the brake MC.
20201122-brake MC 01.jpg

20201122-brake MC 02.jpg


And the rear brake valve assembly.
20201121-brake valve 01.jpg

20201121-brake valve 03.jpg


When I turned to the clutch MC, I realized I'd forgotten to plate some of the parts. So today I set up the plating system. With some refinement of the solutions and my process, as well as fastidious preparation of the parts, I am really pleased with the results.
20201122-bolt plating 01.jpg

20201122-clutch actuator.jpg


I tend to get tunnel vision while focusing on a topic, and start to lose sight of the bigger picture. I was feeling like I'm not making much progress, but then looked back at some photos during disassembly. When I see this, I realize I am very pleased with the progress. It's rewarding to see this comparison, BEFORE AND AFTER:
20200721-brake valve BEFORE.jpg

20201121-brake valve 02.jpg
 
Proportioning valve looks very nice....

Inspired me to have a look inside mine.

two questions for the crowd,

1.what is the green paint / sealant ??

2. the bolt/Stud with the Hex drive in the end, anyone know where I can source a replacement for the one I Just Snapped ?? :(

Thanks.
 
Hello Andy,
The hex drive bolt adjusts the position/tension on the large spring within the "canister". This ultimately provides some calibration to how much hydraulic pressure (braking) the rear wheels receive. I carefully counted exactly how many turns the adjuster stud and also the lock nut took to remove from the can (down to the 6th turn). That allowed me to reset it just as it was before this rebuild. It doesn't seem to me that this setting needs to be that precise, but I didn't want to introduce change into it regardless. I believe the green paint is a thread setter, ensuring that this adjustment doesn't get changed once set at the factory. I replicated this application when I bedded my lock nut. I don't know exactly what color it was 47 years ago, but I admit I may have a bit too much "shamrock shake" in my application.

I don't know where to source a replacement, but if you have the broken stud you should be able to measure and find a same thread/length bolt. The hex end is the key, and the other end could be cut and formed to length. I suppose it doesn't even need the hex - any bolt head would do. But it may not look the part.
 
I finally finished this first trifecta of restoration parts, with the clutch MC. The bore felt good, and I've installed all new rubber seals. Yet, for this one piece, I have a funny feeling about it. And I'm not sure why. For the little time I drove the car before disassembly the clutch worked, and worked well. There was no evidence of leaks, and with the new seals this part should be right as rain. I hope it is, as I'd hate to have to R and R it once installed. That would really take the bloom off the rose.

I guess my procrastination period is over. Now I have to get down to business with the chassis!
20201129-clutch MC 01.jpg
20201129-clutch MC 02.jpg
 
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