I'm jelly of your tasty large yellow beveled tension strut washers
The Raven e9 project
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Question regarding correct finish on some bolts.
For all of the concours judges and originaltarians on the forum (you know who you are), does anyone know what the correct finish should be on the following bolts:
The (6) small M6 bolts (three per side) that hold the front brake dust shields onto the strut tubes. I think these are the parts:
And the (4) large M12 bolts (two per side) that attached the front brake calipers to the strut tubes. I think these are the parts:
For all of the concours judges and originaltarians on the forum (you know who you are), does anyone know what the correct finish should be on the following bolts:
The (6) small M6 bolts (three per side) that hold the front brake dust shields onto the strut tubes. I think these are the parts:
And the (4) large M12 bolts (two per side) that attached the front brake calipers to the strut tubes. I think these are the parts:
I use yellow on dust shields, caliper bolts might be black
When I started, I stated that it is not how fast I can restore this car. Rather, I just want to do the work the best I can. But on beautiful days like today, it makes me want to pick up the pace.
Not a lot of "big" progress, but I thought I'd post a few pics and some questions about axles and nuts below.
I had the front axles stripped down. From there, I cleaned and prepped them further.
Anyone watch this youtube channel?
This guy takes rusty old tools and polishes them up to an amazing level. Sometimes I wonder how much more work it would take to do this to each part (why, I don't know - but watching this guy's results is inspirational).
I can't correlate these casting numbers that are on the axles to my parts book. Does anyone know what these numbers mean?
And here are the axles painted. I pretty happy with how they came out.
And some bolt plating porn. I did the 10.9 bolts in black chromate.
And the 8.8 parts in yellow chromate.
For the large 16mm bolts that attach the wishbones to the front subframe, which nuts would you use? These are 16x 1.5 self-locking nuts. I am planning on use the BMW all-metal nuts because they look so much better to my eye. But I wonder if the nyloc nuts are an "improved technology"?
Not a lot of "big" progress, but I thought I'd post a few pics and some questions about axles and nuts below.
I had the front axles stripped down. From there, I cleaned and prepped them further.
Anyone watch this youtube channel?
This guy takes rusty old tools and polishes them up to an amazing level. Sometimes I wonder how much more work it would take to do this to each part (why, I don't know - but watching this guy's results is inspirational).
I can't correlate these casting numbers that are on the axles to my parts book. Does anyone know what these numbers mean?
And here are the axles painted. I pretty happy with how they came out.
And some bolt plating porn. I did the 10.9 bolts in black chromate.
And the 8.8 parts in yellow chromate.
For the large 16mm bolts that attach the wishbones to the front subframe, which nuts would you use? These are 16x 1.5 self-locking nuts. I am planning on use the BMW all-metal nuts because they look so much better to my eye. But I wonder if the nyloc nuts are an "improved technology"?
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I don't think the nylocs are an improvement over the cleveloc. The cleveloc has a slight eliptical distortion in the threading that the stretches on the bolt when installed. The increased friction created by this stretch keeps the nut from backing out. Importantly, clevelocs are designed to spring back when removed so they can be removed and reused. Nylocs don't spring back (as you can see in your pictures), so they do not impart as much friction the second time they are installed. This is why nylocs should be replaced when removed.
I don't know this for certain, but I suspect nylocs are viewed as new and improved because they are less expensive to manufacture.
I don't know this for certain, but I suspect nylocs are viewed as new and improved because they are less expensive to manufacture.
Don't think that I didn't consider sanding and re-spraying them when I saw the photo blown up on the computer screen.
I can live with it. It'll reduce fingerprints.
Paint finish is such a slippery slope. As you get better at applying, you look at the dry result, and wonder about one more sand with say...1200 grit, then another respray. Hard to stop. These look excellent, great job!Don't think that I didn't consider sanding and re-spraying them when I saw the photo blown up on the computer screen.
Thank you. Yeah, I agree. It is difficult to draw the line - especially on a suspension part that is rarely seen. These strut axles came out nice to my eye. The photos above were right after I sprayed them. The finish actually laid down a bit flatter now. I hate to use this term, but it is "good enough".
I've refurbished the "wishbones". The ball joints were tight and clean. I added grease and re-booted them. And, of course, painted them. I still need to press in the new bushings. What is the preferred lubricant for installing the bushings? BMW says soapy water. I think someone here used silicone grease which would have a lot more slip to it, and wouldn't attack the rubber. Any thoughts?
Wow! With every one of your posts I feel less and less adequate. Amazing work. It’s fun to follow along on this end. Keep it up
This is what I've used for a long time (need a new tube!) for such applications as well as protecting electrical connections (so called "dielectric grease) on battery poles and other exposed connections. Really good stuff. Just be careful and control its spread...
Bought a tube of Chemplex 710. Let me know if you need a squeeze.
The passive steering arm looks great. But I discovered that there is another replaceable part (that I didn't know about). The "fluidblock" appears to be a sleeved bushing. I wish it didn't cost $66, but since I am replacing everything else, how can I ignore this bushing?
The problem with replacing NEARLY ALL rubber and consumable parts is when you get to parts that you didn't think you needed to replace - but then wonder if you should. This center track rod was newer. A PO had evidently had it replaced - the BMW part sticker was still on it (and much more clear before I started cleaning the part), and it led me to believe it was a pretty recent replacement. But after taking everything apart, I see that the "fixed" joints at the ends are not actually fixed, and they are intended to rotate (like a ball joint with only one rotating axis). One side feels pretty good, and the other side is so tight I can't get it to turn. Perhaps I am not using enough leverage, but I think either once side is a bit frozen, or the other side is too loose. assuming I should replace this part as well... Of course, it seems to be NLA save for Walloth Nesch, which is over $200 with shipping.
After cleaning up and re-plating several Kamax, Dera, and Verbus bolts, this is my first Graeka! Will be re-plating this gem this week.
The passive steering arm looks great. But I discovered that there is another replaceable part (that I didn't know about). The "fluidblock" appears to be a sleeved bushing. I wish it didn't cost $66, but since I am replacing everything else, how can I ignore this bushing?
The problem with replacing NEARLY ALL rubber and consumable parts is when you get to parts that you didn't think you needed to replace - but then wonder if you should. This center track rod was newer. A PO had evidently had it replaced - the BMW part sticker was still on it (and much more clear before I started cleaning the part), and it led me to believe it was a pretty recent replacement. But after taking everything apart, I see that the "fixed" joints at the ends are not actually fixed, and they are intended to rotate (like a ball joint with only one rotating axis). One side feels pretty good, and the other side is so tight I can't get it to turn. Perhaps I am not using enough leverage, but I think either once side is a bit frozen, or the other side is too loose. assuming I should replace this part as well... Of course, it seems to be NLA save for Walloth Nesch, which is over $200 with shipping.
After cleaning up and re-plating several Kamax, Dera, and Verbus bolts, this is my first Graeka! Will be re-plating this gem this week.
Nice work. Must be good to have it all so shiny when putting things back together.
Stephen,
Rubber suspension bushings are tricky. When installed and 'operational', you do not want the rubber bushing to 'turn' in the metal, so theorticially it is best if it can be installed 'dry'. However, that can be impossible in some cases, so a lubricant is needed. Best to use one that will allow installation, but then disappear. I don't know where to recommend purchasing that, so I've usually used water with a small amount of soap.
Good Luck,
Gary
Rubber suspension bushings are tricky. When installed and 'operational', you do not want the rubber bushing to 'turn' in the metal, so theorticially it is best if it can be installed 'dry'. However, that can be impossible in some cases, so a lubricant is needed. Best to use one that will allow installation, but then disappear. I don't know where to recommend purchasing that, so I've usually used water with a small amount of soap.
Good Luck,
Gary
Great information - that I could have used before yesterday afternoon - ha ha. Yesterday I installed the first two bushings into the wishbone control arms. These were the smaller of the two, and I spent nearly a solid hour finessing these original BMW/Boge rubber bushings into the arms. I used a threaded rod setup with some size appropriate spaces, washers and sleeves - and they still went in quite reluctantly. I used the silicone grease that @Luis A. recommended, which I thought would have been very slick. I used it sparingly, and although there probably remains a film of this between the rubber and the metal, they don't seem to want to go anywhere. The force that is now embodied in the rubber as it has taken shape within the metal race is evident.
I can try the soapy water solution on the next ones. I need to pick up some additional sleeves (PVC pipe) to fit around the next size up bushing.
Day 341
240.75 hours
Restoring the front suspension and associates subframe components was supposed to be a brief diversion from the chassis work. It has been more of a detour than anticipated, but it is great to be putting things back together. Pressing the new rubber bushings into the wishbones was no picnic. It is fascinating to me how much the rubber deforms from its original molded shape to its compressed/installed shape. Take a look at how the ends of the bushings are tapered/conical - almost like a sharpened pencil. But when installed, they look more like a tire sidewall - vertical and convex. Otherwise, still plating parts...
240.75 hours
Restoring the front suspension and associates subframe components was supposed to be a brief diversion from the chassis work. It has been more of a detour than anticipated, but it is great to be putting things back together. Pressing the new rubber bushings into the wishbones was no picnic. It is fascinating to me how much the rubber deforms from its original molded shape to its compressed/installed shape. Take a look at how the ends of the bushings are tapered/conical - almost like a sharpened pencil. But when installed, they look more like a tire sidewall - vertical and convex. Otherwise, still plating parts...
Stephen,
Do I conclude that you used the silicone lubricant to install the bushings?
I've been told by a long time and highly respected mechanic of a major German car marque that bushings should always be installed 'dry'. The purpose of the bushing is to hold both the exterior metal and the interior metal firmly, so the rubber flexes when the suspension goes up and down. Putting the silicone lubricant on may mean the exterior of the bushing just slides/rotates, rather than having any flexing of the rubber (which significantly changes the damping of the movement in the suspension.
Hope I didn't ruin your result.
Gary
By the way - been there/done that. Those bushings are essentially IMPOSSIBLE to install dry!
Do I conclude that you used the silicone lubricant to install the bushings?
I've been told by a long time and highly respected mechanic of a major German car marque that bushings should always be installed 'dry'. The purpose of the bushing is to hold both the exterior metal and the interior metal firmly, so the rubber flexes when the suspension goes up and down. Putting the silicone lubricant on may mean the exterior of the bushing just slides/rotates, rather than having any flexing of the rubber (which significantly changes the damping of the movement in the suspension.
Hope I didn't ruin your result.
Gary
By the way - been there/done that. Those bushings are essentially IMPOSSIBLE to install dry!
Ha ha - show me an old German mechanic that can get those bushings in dry and I'll eat one. I used a modicum of lubricant on the edge of the bushing, and every bit of that seemed to come out the other side. In fact, I think more came out than what I applied! Given the amount of deformation and compression these underwent, I am confident they are set firmly and fastly into the race.
m_thompson
Well-Known Member
I used liquid soap as a lubricant because it will wash away. Well, at least it did on my 325iS, but the coupe never gets wet so it would never wash off.