Trunk Roundel Gasket

Ok; I will explore the possibility of having a lip integrated into the design. I had been thinking that we could source a material that will retain its dimensions and that would not have to be stretched to install.
 
i know that the new one i bought a few years ago was also small ... i was thinking it had to be heated and stretched to get it to fit ... but that seemed problematic to get it to stay in place.

IMHO,
they should be smaller than the roundel to leave an open gap at the bottom, otherwise moisture from condensation will remain inside and finally start corrosion points
 
Scott - I have a used one that I am planning to send to a die cutter to use as a pattern. Given that they are not perfectly round, I would not attempt this without a pattern.

From talking with the die cutter I found, they believe that they can make something like a CAD drawing from the used part. They make automotive parts (for the Corvette guys) and seemed knowledgeable about using an appropriate material for a part exposed to the elements.

Chris,

If you have it modeled you can 3D print it in Nylon or ABS. That would handle the lip issue. They would likely cost about $15 - $20 to print and that price goes down if you print them in batch. You would in fact want to print them in batch otherwise shipping would be expensive.
 
i have a question for all of you. is this gasket for both the 2 piece trunk roundel or for both? for some reason i thought this gasket was for the 2 piece roundel since it has threaded attachments. doesn't the current 1 piece roundel use the sleeves like the hood comes with that fit into the drilled holes and then the roundel is pushed into it - seems like these sleeves create a water tight seal (at least while they remain spongy).

or do i have this all wrong???
 
The gasket is for the two piece original base and roundel, I've never seen it used with the one piece roundel probably because it has been NLA for so long. There are three different bushings for these roundels over the years, the earliest may have been a metal sleeve, my NK has this on the front roundel. Then there is the black tube and the clear white star style, maybe even others.
 
DeQ -- I am confused by your comment. If the gasket is smaller than the base, how does the base fit into the lip? And I thought the gasket was supposed to form a seal against the paint to prevent water from getting underneath, sort of like the gaskets around the turn signals.

Markos -- I was thinking that the material cannot be too rigid because the gasket needs to bend in order to conform to the contour of the trunk. This is why the gasket is not perfectly round.
 
if the gasket has a lip, it might be better to put the lip toward the paint ... especially if it is smaller than the base. here's my rationale ... when you tighten up the base to the trunk lid, it will compress in the middle ... which can cause the gasket to raise at the edge. if the lip is pointed down it might create a better water seal. i know this might be contrary to common thought, but i think it might be worth experimenting with.
 
I’ll be in the garage tonight if you want pics of the gasket (my gasket anyway) along with the base. I was just looking at it yesterday to see if I needed “in”.

As far as printing goes, 1mm nylon is flexible. Either way, if they do make you a CAD file print it first before you have them make a bunch of them.
 
Scott,

As the base is held by only two clips near the perimeter it isn't going to raise up. I think one of the benefits of the lip outside is many use the Roundel to close their trunk and this will help keeping it from scratching the paint. I never use the roundel because of this and because the plastic posts can break from repeated use.
 
DeQ -- I am confused by your comment. If the gasket is smaller than the base, how does the base fit into the lip? And I thought the gasket was supposed to form a seal against the paint to prevent water from getting underneath, sort of like the gaskets around the turn signals.

Markos -- I was thinking that the material cannot be too rigid because the gasket needs to bend in order to conform to the contour of the trunk. This is why the gasket is not perfectly round.

you are right
i was not very specific, it is ok in width, so the base of the emblem fits into the lip, but it is shorter than the base in length, thus if you place for a perfect fit on the top, it gets a bit short in the bottom
 
So tell me, is this the completely incorrect base gasket? It has the lip as described, but the gasket is round not oblong. Honestly it looks like it would fit perfectly under the roundel, not the platform.

Round gasket on oblong roundel base:
4B283842-BE7C-4B66-B1E5-1E62CC003496.jpeg


Gasket lip:
7C96D9D5-25E7-4399-9212-2FEE9A220A6F.jpeg
 
i hear what you are saying ... but why would you need a gasket between 2 parts of similar metal makeup ... and no waterproofing or wear issues? one minor thing, your gasket is out of round - look at it in relation to the concentric circle of the roundel underneath. probably because it is stretched to go over the posts.
 
i hear what you are saying ... but why would you need a gasket between 2 parts of similar metal makeup ... and no waterproofing or wear issues?

I don’t think a gasket belongs between the roundel and the platform. I’m just saying that my gasket is round and doesn’t match the base.

one minor thing, your gasket is out of round - look at it in relation to the concentric circle of the roundel underneath. probably because it is stretched to go over the posts.

I think you are observing an optical illusion. The gasket is circular. The roundel base is not. As Chris alluded, the gasket needs to be base is elliptical to match the base. the base wraps around the curve of the trunk, so it isn’t circular.

I’m also operating under the assumption that I have the wrong gasket. I can take a closer look at it later.

Chris - count me in for a gasket!
 
Yes, since the trunk is curved in one dimension, the horizontal width of the base is smaller than the vertical width of the base since the base needs to reach out further to get to the trunk and is more or less cone shaped with the roundel on it's truncated apex. The gasket, following the curve of the trunk will be an ellipse if it fully supports the base. As it is, mine could have shrunk over the years, similar to the one in the photo, to be much smaller. The one in the photo is 9.5% shorter than it is wide, no doubt because of the two studs keeping that spacing rather fixed.

Mine is smaller than the base and while it keeps it up off the paint, doesn't show at all. This leaves a small gap between the base and the paint.
I haven't gotten it off, but the photos above do show a small lip on the gasket and it would make sense that it was originally like the turn signal gaskets in that it was wider than the base and had a lip for it to set in. Does anyone have confirmation of that idea?

Ian
 
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Bert -- are you saying I am way off on the pricing? The vendor estimated $125 in setup, and $125 to run 20 of them (20 was a SWAG). I added in taxes and shipping to me and rounded to $25.[/QUOTE]

Sorry about that. it came out the wrong way and certainly was not meant by me to reflect on your pricing which I am sure is based on your cost. I was trying to steer you in another direction and again apologize for the way I said it,
 
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