Agreed, I did forget to mention this.
What did you do to your E9 today?
- Thread starter adawil2002
- Start date
Another reason for me to lean towards the LED vs the Stanley bulbs is heat. No one has mentioned heat problems with using the Stanley bulbs, but I've seen other bulb holders start to melt from bulbs that were too hot. Probably not an issue in normal driving, but an extended session of stop-and-go driving might be enough to overheat things.
Those are not my bulbs
That's why I only used them for the brake lights. I'm now all exterior LED except for the headlights and driving lights. Has anyone tried LED festoon bulbs for the interior/trunk/engine compartment lights?
this is what I used for my E9 check it out it is very bright.
first one is for head light and second is for dash I am happy for dash at night time I have no problem to see the gages
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Can you post a pic of your dash and interior lights?
I don't think my style is quite as bold as yours, but it would be great to see how it looks in your car.
I've wondered about LED wedge and festoon bulbs too. I think I'd want to find ones that have a warm glow like the originals but a bit brighter.
I’ve decided to keep the warm glow incandescent bulbs for the interior overhead light and try LED’s for the trunk and engine compartment lights for added brightness there. I will experiment with the license plate ones, if they look too weird with LED’s I’ll keep them old school as well.
I think they are way too white for license plate lights.
CTD
Well-Known Member
I started to tackle the front seatbelts. The previous owner had installed some seatbelts but in a very unsafe way. I descided to go for the setup that installs behind the back seats since I already had the cutouts in the seat bolsters.
Since the factory holes are positioned way too low to install the belt retractor and have the belt come out where it should, I descided to fabricate a bracket out of stainless that bolts in at 2 points and has a threaded hole to install the restractor.
Since the factory holes are positioned way too low to install the belt retractor and have the belt come out where it should, I descided to fabricate a bracket out of stainless that bolts in at 2 points and has a threaded hole to install the restractor.
Just a word of advice (although you probably have already take it into account). I'd place a similar kind of metal plate behind that bolt through the rear vertical seat back. Even a washer gets pulled through the steel plate easily, as it's just 0.8mm. you need to spread the forces preferably into panels around it with different orientations; just like you did for the front bracket.
I regularly watch crash tests of cars in my job, and I've swept up enough bits after the bang in my lifetime.
For example; a standard M10 bolt in a matching nut it's normal strength class is not strong enough by itself. I've seen bolts being pulled out of welded-in nuts even.
The amount of force on a seatbelt reel is massive. Do not underestimate it; in a serious crash, (the one where you need the belt to keep you alive), the force on the upper belt point is about half your mass multiplied by 20, 30 or even up to 50 times if you hit a tree with just a small front overlap.
Imagine pulling on the reel with that force in a jolt; will it hold?
I regularly watch crash tests of cars in my job, and I've swept up enough bits after the bang in my lifetime.
For example; a standard M10 bolt in a matching nut it's normal strength class is not strong enough by itself. I've seen bolts being pulled out of welded-in nuts even.
The amount of force on a seatbelt reel is massive. Do not underestimate it; in a serious crash, (the one where you need the belt to keep you alive), the force on the upper belt point is about half your mass multiplied by 20, 30 or even up to 50 times if you hit a tree with just a small front overlap.
Imagine pulling on the reel with that force in a jolt; will it hold?
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CTD
Well-Known Member
I have put a threaded stainless 2x5mm plate on the other side of the seat backplate. Replaced the bolts with 7/16 UNF 12.9...
I did the Pierburg setup in the trunk with power off the defrost switch. Although it worked perfectly, I actually got a vapor lock and the car died. The Euro has the vent from the filler neck to under the rear fender and that was wide open. I do have the non-vented gas cap but this should not make a difference. May have to get a vented cap but not sure why.
Should not make a difference, i run my pump for five seconds only on the NK.
That's all I did, 5 sec. I got a mile from the house and it just died. I pulled the pump and got a "whoosh" so I know it was a lock. Car started right up after I bypassed the pump.....
Very strange
Chris are you running a Pierburg? I just read the insert closely and they state the pump should be in parallel if used as a supplementary pump and that each line should have a one way valve to inhibit return. I gotta find a schematic of this thing. I was wondering what resistance it would have to the mechanical pump when not operating if placed in series. Dan said he cannot blow air in the direction of flow so I think we got an answer. Wonder if the Carter pump poses the same issues.
Just to clarify what Rob said, we probably have a few hours with the electric pump now and are only using for prime. Before the electric pump installation, we had an occational "vapor lock" which I initially thought might the coil over heating. We have had that similar issue once after add the electric and when the electric was turned on "seemed" to clear ir up.
I did the taillight chrome tape project. This and the LED’s ought to be quite an improvement. Also cleaned and de-oxed all connectors and re-tensioned the bulb contacts. I used a wrap from Amazon that has an adhesive on the back and a clear vinyl film on front. Once you have the piece in place and all bubbles out, then you remove the vinyl which protects the shiny part. I did the reflectors in 2-3 strips each, it makes applying onto the deep curves much easier.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Rob, I have the Pierburg that Carl recommended and I have shown here somewhere. It sits right next to the tank in my NK. I had to turn the pick-up 180 degrees to avoid a kink in the rubber hose. Never had a problem, it still takes a bit to ignite which I attribute to the Weber choke (I have to blame something).
I have a one way valve in line just after the fuel filter that I thought would help my issue before I did the pump. It was of ZERO help. I just cannot fathom that it is causing any issue. This is what I have Pierburg 721440510
