What did you do to your E9 today?

Keith

Great you are local. I took mine to
SJFry said:
WobDog (Mike),
I was just snooping around the forum and saw your post about fixing your drivers side door lock. I have a 73 E9, and the cover is not working on my drivers lock cylinder. It just flaps back and forth as if the spring is broken or missing.

You mention Jerry-rigging a fix. Any chance you have some photos, or would be willing to talk me through it?

I took the cylinder to an old-school locksmith and they suggested getting a second cylinder for parts, just in case. I'd prefer to do the work myself, and save some $, if I could.

Many thanks,
Keith (I'm in San Jose)
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Keith

I cannot find any photos but what happend with my lock is on the side is a thin peice of metal that keeps the tumbler and springs intact. I had my local locksmith repair it, I want to say $25ish. The place I used was first lock, 905 North San Antonio road los altos, 650-964-4040. Great guy, classic car owner. He rigged up a solution that worked. I am so sorry I have no pictures, and the lock is back in the door now. If you want to call me feel free to contact me at 650-740-6101
 
SJFry said:
WobDog (Mike),
I was just snooping around the forum and saw your post about fixing your drivers side door lock. I have a 73 E9, and the cover is not working on my drivers lock cylinder. It just flaps back and forth as if the spring is broken or missing.

You mention Jerry-rigging a fix. Any chance you have some photos, or would be willing to talk me through it?

I took the cylinder to an old-school locksmith and they suggested getting a second cylinder for parts, just in case. I'd prefer to do the work myself, and save some $, if I could.

Many thanks,
Keith (I'm in San Jose)
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Mike - thanks for the name of the locksmith you used. I've e-mailed them. Fingers crossed they can help.
Keith
 
eriknetherlands said:
While waiting on @Wobdog , you may already want to learn that the little flap that closes off the hole for the key in the lock, indeed is spring loaded.

I have a spare lock, where the spring is dislocated: still inside but not in the right location. On my kitchen table, with warmth, coffee, paitaince, perfect lighting and good tools,, I gave up after an hour.

I thus think that this little spring can only be (re)placed by removing (uncrimping) the crimped stainless steel round cover.

For this you need to remove the lock from the door.
To do that you need to remove the interior doorpanel.
I am not sure if you need to remove some of the internal door components; I think in my build thread I documented last year that with flex fingers and a make-it-yourself tool: a 3 mm thick flat spanner for the ~24mm nut on the inside of the doorskin)
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Erik,
I have the lock cylinder out of the car, but you're correct, it's a tight squeeze in there, so I had to make my own 24mm wrench from some left-over sheetmetal. The wrench worked well.

I was thinking of giving it a shot on my kitchen table, but I'm worried that I'll just make things worse. So, I've contacted the locksmith recommended by Mike and I'll see what they have to say first. If they can't fix it, then I'll give it a try myself.

Thanks,
Keith
 

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SJFry said:
Erik,
I have the lock cylinder out of the car, but you're correct, it's a tight squeeze in there, so I had to make my own 24mm wrench from some left-over sheetmetal. The wrench worked well.

I was thinking of giving it a shot on my kitchen table, but I'm worried that I'll just make things worse. So, I've contacted the locksmith recommended by Mike and I'll see what they have to say first. If they can't fix it, then I'll give it a try myself.

Thanks,
Keith
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SJFry said:
Do you have pictures of the lock? I thought of doing it myself, but for the amount I paid it was worth it have a locksmith do it. Call me if you want to talk with me live, 650-740-6101. ALSO if you are going to the locksmith in Los Altos let me know would love to meet you live.
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Noticed the coupe has lost a little break fluid, put it up on the lift and found one of the “new” seventeen thousand miles ago front brake calibers were leaking… change that out for a spare, and then notice that the driveshaft giubo was cracked…changed that as well.


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Barney… did you replace the giubo with a like kind or did you have to change the bolts etc? facing this eventually.
 
tdgray said:
Barney… did you replace the giubo with a like kind or did you have to change the bolts etc? facing this eventually.
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Replaced with the exact same I had on the shelf, the bolts and giubo were new when we installed a five speed 18 months ago…I ordered one for the shelf from W&N…took about 3.5 hours to change out…
 
Just bought a 1967 2000CS. It's still in transit. I have some really cool 3 piece 15 inch Hardy& Beck wheels, that will go on the car. For now I photoshopped them on, and like it a lot.
I will report back once I have the car in possession.
 

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Deetman said:
Just bought a 1967 2000CS. It's still in transit. I have some really cool 3 piece 15 inch Hardy& Beck wheels, that will go on the car. For now I photoshopped them on, and like it a lot.
I will report back once I have the car in possession.
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Nice job on the photoshop! Those H&Bs are going to change the look of the car.
 
I awoke my car from a four year slumber and found the clutch pedal had no action. The brakes are fine though the fluid reservoir was almost empty. Clearly the clutch slave is leaking. I chose to use the method referred elsewhere here to push the new fluid into the system via the slave bleeder. The port on the bleeder was gunked iup so I had to clean it first and then the rest was a breeze. Now she's ready for a truck ride to Austin and our new house.
 
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