What did you do to your E9 today?

Another while you are in there: check the two plastic bushings on your pedal in the booster mount, impossible to reach otherwise and maybe shoot some satin black on the steering box.
 
Dlc said:
Nice! Whilst you're in there - have you considered upgrading your fuse box to the blade fuses with the mod some folks on the forum have provided to us?
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That was actually one of the first mods I did. I was redoing the window motors and changing my 1990s Alpine head to a retrosound head to look a bit more "period-correct". I think one of my first questions here was "what does this yellow wire do?" I soon found out...
IMG_6864.jpeg
 
e9Leveque said:
That was actually one of the first mods I did. I was redoing the window motors and changing my 1990s Alpine head to a retrosound head to look a bit more "period-correct". I think one of my first questions here was "what does this yellow wire do?" I soon found out...View attachment 217727
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Yikes! looks a lot like my car when I started pulling yards and yards of extraneous aftermarket wires out
 
e9Leveque said:
Spent a fair amount of the weekend doing some rewiring. I undid all of the tape in the main loom heading from the under dash area into the firewall and retaped, adding 4 new wiring circuits hooked up to my supplemental fusebox. As per a previous thread, some of these are for future proofing. One is for powering the oil pressure/voltmeter/water temp gauges I plan to add to the console, the others are for anything else I might need in the future. I’ll probably terminate one under the rear seat area (seat heater?) and the other under the center console.
I had previously moved the battery to the trunk and used the battery tray to mount my distribution block. I know that this will probably be heresy to some, but I just didn’t like the look of all of these additional wires on the bsttery and the trunk is large enough to hold a medium Optimum battery easily with a 100-Amp breaker in one of its terminals. The distribution block is covered with a metal box that I fabricated just so it looks clean. I used the new labeler that @ScottAndrews had mentioned in a previous thread, very slick and labeling the shrink wrap was a nice touch in my mind.
I also installed the last of the firewall insulation. Slowly heading towards engine re-insertion.
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Are those Blue Sea marine terminals? Look like it...

How did the labeler work out (have not yet used mine)? I see you are using heat shrink labels. do those fit over the spade connectors, or do you have to do them prior to attaching the wire termination? Did you try any of the other label types?
 
HB Chris said:
Another while you are in there: check the two plastic bushings on your pedal in the booster mount, impossible to reach otherwise and maybe shoot some satin black on the steering box.
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Good idea on the satin black, I had sprayed the mount for the brake booster but not the steering box. I'll mask off the plate there and protect the silver mount area. Regarding the plastic bushings, I have the pedal rebuild kit from W&N and I was going to work on that this weekend, but it seems that most of that is on the other side of the firewall.
Reading through this thread (https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/s...ng-source-and-install-technique-advice.45279/) this seems like maybe quite a bit of a job. I wasn't planning on removing the pedal box, but maybe my hand will be forced. Any suggestions? I do have a few extra of those bushings so can try to replace them
 
ScottAndrews said:
Are those Blue Sea marine terminals? Look like it...

How did the labeler work out (have not yet used mine)? I see you are using heat shrink labels. do those fit over the spade connectors, or do you have to do them prior to attaching the wire termination? Did you try any of the other label types?
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Yes, I followed your lead and ordered the 100A Blue Sea breaker for the battery. Those distribution blocks are from Summit Racing, I think. I tried both the wire wrap labels and the Permasleeve heat shrink labels. The Permasleeve works a little better for the smaller wires since it's lower profile and still legible. That Permasleeve comes in 4 different sizes, this is the 0.187 size designed for 22-10 gauge wires. They will fit over the very end of the spade connector but wouldn't go all the way up to the silver tip - for that you'd probably need a larger size, so you have to slide the permasleeve on before you install the wire into the spade connector. I'll use the wire wrap label for any of the larger wires if I decide to label them. Both types are really nice and the setup is professional. I got the version that hooks up to the app, the options available to you on the app allows a lot of control. I don't have a picture of it here, but I was also able to label the side along the fuses with a list of what each one controls by using the standard label and the "fuse panel" option, where in you define the spacing between each fuse and then put a label into each cell down the list, as shown on this picture from Brady's website
1775062087363.png
 
e9Leveque said:
Good idea on the satin black, I had sprayed the mount for the brake booster but not the steering box. I'll mask off the plate there and protect the silver mount area. Regarding the plastic bushings, I have the pedal rebuild kit from W&N and I was going to work on that this weekend, but it seems that most of that is on the other side of the firewall.
Reading through this thread (https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/s...ng-source-and-install-technique-advice.45279/) this seems like maybe quite a bit of a job. I wasn't planning on removing the pedal box, but maybe my hand will be forced. Any suggestions? I do have a few extra of those bushings so can try to replace them
Click to expand...
I replaced those on my e12 and it was challenging since everything was in place in the engine bay. Yours is much more accessible.
 
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