Another while you are in there: check the two plastic bushings on your pedal in the booster mount, impossible to reach otherwise and maybe shoot some satin black on the steering box.
What did you do to your E9 today?
- Thread starter adawil2002
- Start date
Exactly what I was thinking...
Yikes! looks a lot like my car when I started pulling yards and yards of extraneous aftermarket wires out
Are those Blue Sea marine terminals? Look like it...
How did the labeler work out (have not yet used mine)? I see you are using heat shrink labels. do those fit over the spade connectors, or do you have to do them prior to attaching the wire termination? Did you try any of the other label types?
Good idea on the satin black, I had sprayed the mount for the brake booster but not the steering box. I'll mask off the plate there and protect the silver mount area. Regarding the plastic bushings, I have the pedal rebuild kit from W&N and I was going to work on that this weekend, but it seems that most of that is on the other side of the firewall.
Reading through this thread (https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/s...ng-source-and-install-technique-advice.45279/) this seems like maybe quite a bit of a job. I wasn't planning on removing the pedal box, but maybe my hand will be forced. Any suggestions? I do have a few extra of those bushings so can try to replace them
Yes, I followed your lead and ordered the 100A Blue Sea breaker for the battery. Those distribution blocks are from Summit Racing, I think. I tried both the wire wrap labels and the Permasleeve heat shrink labels. The Permasleeve works a little better for the smaller wires since it's lower profile and still legible. That Permasleeve comes in 4 different sizes, this is the 0.187 size designed for 22-10 gauge wires. They will fit over the very end of the spade connector but wouldn't go all the way up to the silver tip - for that you'd probably need a larger size, so you have to slide the permasleeve on before you install the wire into the spade connector. I'll use the wire wrap label for any of the larger wires if I decide to label them. Both types are really nice and the setup is professional. I got the version that hooks up to the app, the options available to you on the app allows a lot of control. I don't have a picture of it here, but I was also able to label the side along the fuses with a list of what each one controls by using the standard label and the "fuse panel" option, where in you define the spacing between each fuse and then put a label into each cell down the list, as shown on this picture from Brady's website
I replaced those on my e12 and it was challenging since everything was in place in the engine bay. Yours is much more accessible.
Tonight I thought of @HB Chris as the Kung fu master, urging the young apprentice onwards as he is continuously beaten down and defeated. In the end I triumphed. Damn those plastic bushings. I can’t imagine trying to do this with the engine in there. It’s a combination of working under the dash in the pedal box and working in the engine bay. Eventually I knocked it one way to remove the post from one bushing and then could maneuver it out of the car from inside in the footwell. I chamfered both inside edges and then pushed the bushings in, then put one post of the accelerator shaft T-end through the passenger side bushing and used a ratchet extension and mallet to drive that accelerator arm towards the passenger side until it cleared the driver side bushing at which point I could pull it back through that second bushing. What a pain. Painting the steering box was easy in comparjson
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Those pedal box bushings were a fight as I recall!
Kung Fu Master...LOL!
I have been pondering the pedal box. It is still installed so the car can be maneuvered using the steering, but Don's guys will remove it and the subframes when the car is at paint. I'll either go collect all that from them and restore it myself, or i'll have Don do it. It's a bit complicated because I have a full CN suspension kit at the shop (springs, shocks, camber plates, steering links, bushings, etc.), so I'll either need to deliver that to them, or get the powder coated parts from them and do the assembly myself. Ahhh, Logistics...
Have folks power coated the pedal box, or is it better just to paint it?
Nice job on the steering box!.. Much Mo Bettah....
What brake lines did you use? They look easy to bend...
Regarding the pedal box, it will be much easier to rebuild out of the car. Although I have been powder coating a fair amount of smaller stuff, not sure that this would benefit from it over just painting. I didn’t remove mine last night because it would have necessitated taking apart the steering column, which I didn’t want to do. One downside of that decision however is that the rubber piece that goes on the inside side of the firewall/pedal box will have to be cut at its base to account for the steering column that is currently in place. Should still be ok and I assume better than the disintegrating foam that I pulled out last night.
Brake lines are cunifer set pre-bent from Ireland Engineering. I was going to bend and flare these myself and Don convinced me that this wasn’t the job to do as a first-timer. The set from them isnt cheap (about double the cost of me just ordering equivalent supplies) but it was nice that it came bent. Two of the lines needing rebending to match the ones I pulled out and the long line that heads to the rear comes as a coil so of course needs to be bend but is already the right length and has the flared ends installed. The cunifer is a nice material, I think a copper/nickel/iron blend (thus the name) and bends nicely without creasing and shouldn’t rust. It seems to be the general recommendation for brake lines these days if you’re willing to pay the additional cost.