Will have to start somewhere

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

More nasty bits

If 3 things had not happened I would be having much more fun with the Polaris coupe. It looks like someone added an electric antenna which allowed water to creep into the driver side floor. All in all, not so bad but it did create some rust. Next, if only people would jack them up correctly I could have avoided the problem on the right side. And 3rd, this one is a little strange but along one of the seams by the drive tunnel it looks like the heat from the exhaust burnt off any protection and I have a thin line of rust that has to be patched. I banged out some scrap from the full floors I did on the blue coupe but if anyone sees that I'm doing something incorrectly please jump in with both feet. I have not welded anything yet, just forming the pieces.

Thanks

 

[HB Chris]

Passenger side next to console could be a plugged A/C drain, mine rusted there fairly bad.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Hi Chris- I noticed your ECU post and was wondering if you could point out where that drain is?

Thanks

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

2800CS front brake question

Can someone tell me if the 1970/71 2800CS came with non vented front disks? On my 74 they were non vented as well and then someone told me that someone probably put 02Tii brakes on her because they were cheaper back in the day. The caliper is seized (in the "on" position) but there is a 72 stamped on the caliper. Could that signify the year?

While I'm at it, another question; the wood in the car is remarkably good with small hairline cracks in the finish on the dash wood. Is there a recommended product for this?

I would rather not have to remove that

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Interesting shot (I think)

Talk about expecting the zombie apocalypse, my little town seems to be ready...as am I

 

[HB Chris]

Peter,

Pic 5 in the second post. It can't be seen when evap unit is installed, very common to get plugged. Another pic shows the plate installed under the A/C. It drains onto the gearbox literally less than an inch below.

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17899

And the 2800CS had solid rotors not vented like all 3.0CS coupes. And Tii rotors are 256 vs. 272mm on the e9 whether vented or not. I would think the 4 vs. 5 lug hub would be an issue as well. Can't remember how many Allen head bolts are on the backside.

 

[jamesw]

I'm pretty sure the 2800 did not come with vented front rotors.

Cheers
James

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Got it Chris, and James- thanks for confirming, too long ago for me to check on what the other coupe had for brakes before correcting them.

OK, I have a couple more shots, a couple of pretty ones but one ugly one. When I took off the rocker covers there was only one spot of "break through" rust and so I operated so I could get a scope in there. The rust seems to be very limited and so I'm wondering what to treat the inner rockers with (before/during/after? welding this spot).

Please refrain from all comments as to my skill with hand tools- that will be much appreciated

 

[rsporsche]

my 2800cs has vented fronts. perhaps they were changed.

 

[Nicad]

Got it Chris, and James- thanks for confirming, too long ago for me to check on what the other coupe had for brakes before correcting them.

OK, I have a couple more shots, a couple of pretty ones but one ugly one. When I took off the rocker covers there was only one spot of "break through" rust and so I operated so I could get a scope in there. The rust seems to be very limited and so I'm wondering what to treat the inner rockers with (before/during/after? welding this spot).

Please refrain from all comments as to my skill with hand tools- that will be much appreciated

I think I would keep it covered in a rust preventive oily substance like Rust Check. I will be interested to see what other options come up.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Thanks, I'll be visiting Eastwood's on the web today to get some ideas, also need to get some of that spooge that protects surrounding metal from heat when welding. Paint is too nice to have it damaged.

 

[adawil2002]

Look into Fluid Film, available at Napa it's an excellent rust inhibitor. Comes in a spray can, brush top can and gallons. It is like waxoil.

 

[Stevehose]

Another option is Penetrol, available at Lowes and HD

 

[Nicad]

Whatever you use, you should send it in as a vapour under high pressure. I find that sprays like Fluid film work very well, but it would be hard to insure that it gets everywhere it is needed in a blind application. To me that is the benefit of the Canadian Rust prevention companies that many of us use on our daily drivers. The product is applied like a cloud to internal compartments and finds its way to every nook and cranny.

https://www.krown.com

http://www.rustcheck.com


Both claim to be #1 in Canada

Rust is a bigger problem in Canada than anywhere I can think of but Buffalo, New York.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

More work (or therapy) today as I pulled the struts out. I plan on dropping the engine out complete with trans but I was warned that the struts can flop around and damage the fenders if you're doing it solo and they have to come off anyhow so I found some interesting stuff, apparently the driver's side insert was replaced for some reason and guess what? the washers were put in backwards so I don't need a new steering box I need to replace the strut bearings, the passenger side was pretty shot but you could not hardly turn the driver side. There is no half doing any of this stuff I guess. Good news was that there was no more rust found

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Hard to believe

By the looks of the motor it would indicate more than 79K on the clock but the body condition seems to be consistent with those numbers. Here is the "before" shot of the engine. I'm descending into the "inferno" not sure if a stock rebuild of the engine will be on the list but it's a possibility-

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Nicad, are those treatments available without shipping my car to Canada ?

 

[Nicad]

You can buy the chemicals and spray it in yourself. Once my car is all back together this will be my plan at least yearly. I can send you some in quart bottles if you like…..down the road. A little goes a long way.
I think the main thing is getting it where it is needed. Might have to drill some holes.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

So far I have used all the advice from the thread below and I'm grateful. I do have one note on what not to use; on the under-dash panels that like to separate from the metal "core" I have not had luck with "Liquid Nails" Now I have to scrape that stuff from between the foam and the steel and try something else. Luckily I experimented on only one piece. Any suggestions are most welcome.

Nicad, I'll PM you so we can figure out how I can get some of that vapor down to TX.

Can anyone tell me if a stock Zenith Carb set up from a 72 Bavaria will fit on a 2800/3.0CS with no major mods?

OK, back to Hamleta, I'm getting ready to "drop" the engine and trans as a single unit, I tried to disconnect most everything but I'm sure I forgot at least 1 thing. Can I get some do's and dont's from the group please. I have the exhaust system out completely, the Guibo disconnected (although the driveshaft is still stuck in the tranny-though lose. Clutch slave disconnected, pulled the PS pump out of the way- not disconnected yet, and I have the A/C to deal with.

Regarding not throwing anything away, I purchased new strut bearings for my 3.0 because I thought the old ones were bad, but I had the washers in wrong, but I saved them and re-packed them yesterday and I think they are very solid. That should save about 400.00 because the ones off the 2800 are dry and rusty.

Thanks and happy Thanksgiving!

Thought I would post some pics just for good measure

 

[Jean Luc]

Bon courage pour la suite .
Good luck for the future.