72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration

one other option, well two ...
1. you could slightly darken the seat / door panel color
2. you could depart from tradition and use a non-standard door panel color - like a fjord color with the off-white seats, with blue / gray carpet

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Thanks!

I think I'll stick with the white door panels and arm rests, and just take some care with them. It is not like this car will be used for daily commuting!! And then stick with black for the various pads. Are the softer pads (lower dash upper doors, a pillars, etc.) done with leather or vinyl? I may go non-traditional black on the kick panels, since white is almost certain to end up with scuff marks from shoes. I'll think a bit about that.

Like the two carpets above, especially the Boucle 405...Seems like that would avoid introducing a significantly new color, but kind of blend the Fjord with the black.

Scott
 
order carpet samples before you buy - colors do differ in reality from pics ... but also ask that any material you buy is from the same dye-lot. quick note, GAHH does not make a trunk carpet. all the leather and carpet with text in blue are from GAHH. the other carpet samples are from Cabrio.de. i think carpet patterning from GAHH is better than Cabrio (KHM). most of the pics i have attached are square weave carpet, not the traditional 2 tone loop.

if you have a good auto interior guy, you can buy the materials from Veterans and they can do custom carpet. i would recommend that you buy enough extra white material to do the kick panels in case you don't like the black - so the color matches. are you going to do leather door panels, or vinyl? are you going to keep the embossed or perforated vinyl at the top of the door panels - painted to match the leather?
 
I am planning to have the door panels done in embossed leather. Given he originality aspect I'll probably do the kick panels white, and if they end up getting scuffed, I'll change them to black.

I have seen a variety of trunk carpets, many of which do not match the interior. Seems like they should be the same...

"Elephant skin" on the inner fenders, seat bulkhead, rear quarters and back, and carpet on the floor?
 
typically the carpet is the same in the car and in the trunk - but the 2 aren't visible at the same time so they really don't have to be. you can buy some extra yardage and have somebody locally make it (if you buy from GAHH).

the trunk floor panels, seat back, rear panel + inner fenders are elephant skin - the wheel arches are plastic to look like the elephant skin.
 
Different topic.
I have possible line on an M90 engine. Has anyone used triple webers on that engine? What, if any are the potential issues?
 
Well, between massive work commitments, and various family issues (my 97 YO dad), I have not gotten too much done over the past 4-5 weeks...

Managed to move the cars to my new shop, and set up work benches and shelving. Spent the day today sorting through boxes and boxes of old car parts. Parts form a mid 80's 635 that were given to me, misc parts from what appears to be a 735, new and old parts from my 1980 Euro 635 restoration (amazing.. found a brand new set of flush Euro front turn signal lenses!!), Old parts from my 1972 Bronco restoration, and lots of miscellaneous stuff. I tossed a lot of it, and sorted the rest. My shop now has a lot more free space!!

So, this next weekend (long weekend) I plan to set up some new storage bins and start disassembling the coupe!

I decided to make some wooden dollies to set the doors on, and a rack to hold the hood. From my past restorations, having those held in some way so they can be easily moved around, and are not scraping on the floor is very helpful. I'll put the doors on the dolly (one on each side) outside-in, so I can then work on the door internals easily.

Once the doors are off, I'll pull out the interior and send the door cards, rears seats and the other upholstered bits off to be re-covered. The front seats will be replaced by the Scheel 401s I bought a month or so ago.

Then I can really strip the inside down and see what I am actually dealing with body-wise. Hoping to get the body off to resto and paint in the spring.

I'll also pull the powertrain and set that aside. Still hoping to replace the US 3.0 with a 3.5 M90..

Nice to finally be at the threshold of this long awaited project!!

Scott
 
Recently been working to collect the proper parts for a triple Weber arrangement for this car. Many many thanks to @Stevehose who has been super helpful in sorting out the options and directing me to sources for various critical parts. I have a bit of a journey ahead before I get to experience the music of these carbs personally, but I totally get the idea, and from a technical/performance perspective it seems like the next best thing to ITB injection, but for this car that would be a step too far. I am hoping to do this with an M90 engine, but if not I'll warm up the original old 3.0 M30.(I'll probably rebuild that engine anyway just so the matching numbers engine is available for some future collector - and I enjoy building engines!).

I recently purchased the Pierce manifolds for the Weber 40 DCOE carbs, I understand that this setup requires modification of the thermostat. I have to say I am pretty disappointed in the overall quality of these parts. They are very rough inside and out. Basically minimally finished mill quality parts. To use them will require surfacing the flanges (critical for good vacuum sealing, and extensive internal porting). Very much a DIY product... I can understand the lack of porting, as that's dependent on the specific application, but providing what is basically a sand cast finish on the flange mating surfaces seems pretty cheap, and the rest of the external finish s pretty rough.

At any rate, having been introduced to Tim Jason, a fabricator, I think I am going to just design my own intake manifolds, and work with Tim to get them made, and use one of his beautiful 3x Weber air filters and Weber elbow trumpets)

A couple of initial observations. I looked at photos of the VGS manifold. This is a single long unit that has six different intake runners. Seems like an easy recipe for tolerance buildup, where small errors in position compound, so the manifold is aligned well at one end and doesn't line up well at the other. From that perspective the Pierce units are better designed, since they only span two intake ports. That means they are probably less prone to fit issues as well as cracking over time (although I have no evidence that this has ever been an issue with single piece manifolds).

The M30 engine block is rotated 30 degrees from vertical. The Pierce manifold flanges are angled at about 18 degrees from inlet to outlet. This means the carbs will sit at a 12 degree angle. Not sure if that is ideal. I suspect that this is a compromise to allow clearance for the carb inlet trumpets, which will tend to interfere with the inner fender, more so the more the carbs are level...

I plan to do some measurements, and see how/if I can both avoid interference with the brake booster and the thermostat housing while providing room for some elbow trumpets into one of Tim's triple carb air cleaners.

First step is to get some measurements off the car, and then get conversant with a 3D modeling package, and maybe make some 3D models of manifold parts to then have cast and finished.

I'll keep y'all posted.
 
Having thought a bit about this before taking measurements. I realized I need a solid and elegant datum point. Some point that I can measure from in 3 dimensions And position the components in the area (brake booster, master cylinder, brake lines, coolant reservoir, thermostat, etc.), so I can assure that nothing interferes. I think I am going to use the brake cylinder-firewall point. That seems to be a well defined point on a vertical surface from which I can position everything else in 3D. It's going to be a complicated 3D model...
 
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A couple of initial observations. I looked at photos of the VGS manifold. This is a single long unit that has six different intake runners. Seems like an easy recipe for tolerance buildup, where small errors in position compound, so the manifold is aligned well at one end and doesn't line up well at the other. From that perspective the Pierce units are better designed, since they only span two intake ports.
There are a few other one piece manifolds out there, the “Karsundpartz” (sp?) being one. VGS made individual manifolds for 4 cylinder applications, it looks like they just cut the single unit one into 3 pieces but not sure, but this avoids triplicate vacuum holes when only one is needed. Don port matched mine with the head so no fitment issues there.
 
There are a few other one piece manifolds out there, the “Karsundpartz” (sp?) being one. VGS made individual manifolds for 4 cylinder applications, it looks like they just cut the single unit one into 3 pieces but not sure, but this avoids triplicate vacuum holes when only one is needed. Don port matched mine with the head so no fitment issues there.
The Pierce ones are Karzundpartz.

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Another odd thing is that they are sold as being universal, for 38/40/45 DCOE, but the opening at the carb end is 45 mm, so unless youare running 45 mm carbs, it is basically impossible to get a smooth port (without steps) from the carb to the head...

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And the angle from inlet to outlet is 18 degrees (±), which mean the carbs will tilt upwards at 12 degrees. Probably to allow the trumpets to clear the inner fender.

After studying this. I do think I am going to make my own. I think I'll make them 25 degrees, so the carbs will be tilted toward the car by about 5 degrees, which appears to be the maximum tilt recommended by Weber.

Looks like you can fiddle with the length and the rise of the manifold to hopefully clear the brake booster and the thermostat (not too sure about the booster as yet...) The trick is using elbow trumpets, so you can go outward from the engine a bit, and then curve over level. That raises the carbs slightly (hopefully clearing the booster, and places them farther out from the head, hopefully clearing the thermostat.

I'll 3D print these to assure fitment before having them cast.
 
Honestly, for a three piece system, it s a pair of tubes and flanges. There are multiple examples to work from. And, with some care it should be pretty easy to thread the needle and come up with a manifold that misses the thermostat, places the carbs above the booster, and leave room for elbows to a top mounted air filter.

Challenge accepted...

Scott
 
Korman had the one piece ... don't know what the new Korman unit is like since they lost the molds to the original one piece unit.
"lost the drawings in a fire.." Seems like lame excuse, given that they certainly have one or two examples sitting around. Seems more like a lack of interest than some massive barrier...
 
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