Markos

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MAKE THEM INDENTED INSTEAD OF PROJECTING
That’s a good option. However, I am already exceeding the minimum thickness for ABS plastic. I’m okay for Nylon though. I haven’t looked where that threshold was hit though. Probably at the edges and not where the font is.
 

Markos

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The new model looks fantastic. I will do the final measurements later, but I have a feeling that we are good to go! I will need to raise the spacer in the back a bit to help the vinyl powder evacuate during post processing. I will snap it off as designed before painting and remove any residuals.

The recent print job has minor QC issues. The dark line on the bottom of the face plate is the result of some type of printing issue. It is a very distinct geometric pattern that cuts through the model at a 30 degree angle. It won’t affect the finished product but it I reached out to the manufacturer. Interestingly enough they told me that they had to have another shop print this one. I’m sure that they will be pleased to know about the issue.

2d543e59b74fa5b0ccb4de8037bea346.jpg


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Markos

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All of the measurements checked out. I'm finally done! :cool:

The spacer snaps onto the fan switch:
5b0bccc840b3d37c673b4a3fc6505bce.jpg


Much drama earlier on before I realized that the swtich is mounted sideways, unlike the E3 as seen in the blue books. The spacer allows the switch to clear the vents:
79d9c9091e025816f01b91fab4ce9651.jpg


A small indentation exists on the backside of the face plate to accept an alignment pin on the temp switch:
e5d79fcb06ed4a13930a4da322c4af9c.jpg


Perfect fit from above:
64da9f3e170ced21f2ab45f5694100a3.jpg


The Blaupunkt Frankfurt came with radio post spacers to allow you to adjust the depth of your radio mount. I palyed around with one versus two:
c7c2c0e4ee1b5612db0703733ce41769.jpg


One spacer:
16d871c1c248f8342689f0e6b967f996.jpg


Two spacers:
6fede9ca59ad1eb23d19a362d3e0f7aa.jpg


Assembled and switches "on":
936d1e3ca9c11038d818fdaf482e8c45.jpg
 

teahead

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The beauty of this piece is you can cut to DIN if you'd like w/o harming an original.

Mark, you going to sell it raw? Or finished? If the latter, as aforementioned, the original finish looks like a very light satin orange peel with very little texture. Perhaps someone who's a pro painter can paint a bunch of them w/the correct finish for not much $$$?
 

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Mark, you going to sell it raw? Or finished? If the latter, as aforementioned, the original finish looks like a very light satin orange peel with very little texture. Perhaps someone who's a pro painter can paint a bunch of them w/the correct finish for not much $$$?
Hi Rob,

I will sell them both ways. I can offer a slight discount for selling them raw along with free shipping (dropped shipped).

I’m trying a different painting technique with each prototype.
 

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I’m shipping a few of these out this week, but not before two minor tweaks.

1. I am raising the height of the rear spacer to allow the vinyl powder to escape the gap.

2. I am smoothing out the leading edge of the vent fins. The backside of the original fins are very blunt. The front side however are either tapered or radiused. I asked my modeler to examine and determine which option is more appropriate.

f668f6e06d576463012f8e09a05addd2.jpg


I think that my OCD will die down once these minor changes are in place.

I also gave him the measurements for my four gauge cluster. Although the gauges are your standard 52mm, the bezels are 58mm. My custom gauges ship out this Friday so I’ll have some eye candy for this thread (and my cupboard) in a few weeks.

047b30c2a768f274569233419684c17b.png
 
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rsporsche

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Mark, i think tapering the blades will make them seem thinner ... and not so thick. there is a side benefit to doing this on the back, as it will reduce air turbulence which should provide slightly better cooling air flow.
 

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Mark, i think tapering the blades will make them seem thinner ... and not so thick. there is a side benefit to doing this on the back, as it will reduce air turbulence which should provide slightly better cooling air flow.
Thanks Scott!

I am pretty sure that the originals are tapered and not radiused. I am going to leave the back as-is. Since the part is made from Vinyl you can wiggle the blades a bit if you are so inclined. I do not wish to make them any thinner than needed.

As you can see, the rear edge of the original is not tapered:

eec431f4d0990ef20a00a41c6f0261cb.jpg
 
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rsporsche

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not sure what i was thinking about as the air doesn't flow out of this piece ... so no worry about air turbulence.
 

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My ignition covers finally arrived.

The FDM printing in ABS was a flop (as warned by printer). I learned a bit about the vast resolution difference between FDM and SLS. I will be sticking with Vinyl and other materials for now.

The font on the Vinyl lock cover turned out well. I have some visible stepping on the cover face which is surprising. I haven’t run into that yet. I think it was because they didn’t post process the part. I will lightly sand off the stepping. I’m going to add some
more dye. The dye penetrates .25mm. Depending on how it looks I might hit it with satin paint. This area sees a lot of abuse from the key. Polished aluminum would look interesting! :D

Overall the part looks good but fits a little loose. I will need to revisit fitment. The part looks
visibly ‘off’ from the e12 cover. My modeler
has the e9 cover so I can’t compare at the moment. I don’t know about the interest in this one so I don’t want to iterate too much.

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Hi Markos, i am new to the E9 community. I saw you recreated vent covers for the E9, i also saw they shut you down for copyright issues, but do you have any left? I need one for the passenger side of my car and i cant find one anywhere.
 

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I figured I'd post a few pics of the finished gauge models. I'm going to kick off a print of the four gauge model next week. I don't expect many people to want one of these. This one is for me.

Four Gauge:
c65950187b5e964bfc08a1863bb71c4f.jpg


Three Gauge:
2577fff187379080c9fd8278857ee246.jpg
 

teahead

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Clipboard01.jpg

Hey Mark, I'm thinking if it's possible to have the center two holes for the AC controls still there, but instead of the vents, can make two 2 5/8" holes for gauges (oil press/volt); one on each side? Plus a full DIN opening.

AC doesn't blow through those vents anyways (just for looks).
 
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Markos

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View attachment 38985
Hey Mark, I'm thinking if it's possible to have the center two holes for the AC controls still there, but instead of the vents, can make two 2 5/8" holes for gauges (oil press/volt); one on each side? Plus a full DIN opening.

AC doesn't blow through those vents anyways (just for looks).
I can definitely do it. Someone will need
to be the financial and fitment guinea pig though. I plan on making a DIN version no matter what. The extra cost of a custom face isn’t that much in the grand scheme of things.

Funny I was thinking about something like this. I would go with a three gauge version though and move the knobs between the gauges and the reason. One of the AC switches does get very hot though.

The speedhut gauges that I am using are only about an inch deep. One has to consider real estate behind the panel, leaving room for wiring as well.
 

teahead

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You mean like this?

Clipboard01.jpg


Hmm...that could work. I thought maybe since the backside for the switches were already there for the regular version, it wouldn't take much to make the area where the vents normally go smooth.


Clipboard02.jpg

Plus, it may be pretty tight back there w/all the realestate the two switches would take.
 

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You mean like this?

View attachment 38987

Hmm...that could work. I thought maybe since the backside for the switches were already there for the regular version, it wouldn't take much to make the area where the vents normally go smooth.
I was thinking like that but move
the switches to the lower area which has more area to work with. There isn’t enough room for the switches up top between the three gauges:

Mock-up:
f8540005e12824f4a294fdab9690200c.jpg
 
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