'71 2800 CS Budget Resto

More info on the car, for better or worse!

Markos,

I had the engine machine work done by Jonnie's Machine shop in downtown Seattle. He did good work. I did purchase a new head for it in 81' after I found a couple of cracks, and a bit hotter cam. I can't remember the specs. He curved the distributor to match. The block is the original. Crank was turned too.

You are probably wondering about the front inner fender covers. A fellow club member told me that a late model Honda inner fender fit perfectly and kept the crap out of the fender wells. It seemed to work well while I had it. The gas tank was new in 87'. Was rear ended so much of the back end was reworked including the new tank. Took 6 months to get all of the parts. Had a 6 month car rental bill for them. Ha, never hit a classic. I had the entire car painted at that time. Rust cut out of a number of spots. (Edit: That explains my shiny tank innards, and rust free rear floor. They appeared to do a very good job)

The steering wheel was the original. I always thought they could have done better there. (Edit: Still have it plus two more)

Too bad the stereo is shot. It was top notch in the day. It was a very clean sound, not a big boom box sound.... Back when I could still hear the high frequencies. Custom built by Northwest Audio. Was painful to cut the rear deck, but at the time I wanted a clean look. I even had a fake radio panel that had them nobs and faceplate of the original AM BP radio mounted to it and set nicely over the real system. Sounded much better than my home system. (Edit: See previous pages for an '80's professional stereo - the technology has changed drastiacally!)

We're the original set of wheels still with the car? I passed those along when I sold it in case he didn't like the Enkie's. (Edit: Still have them plus too many other sets)

Thanks again for letting me see the progress. I'm anxious to follow along, reminiscing.

I have a few parts queued up for purchase. I really just need to buckly down and start the restoration. My new goal is to get the CSI out of the garage by winter. It seems realistic. My 2800CS is registered, and insured for driving. I filled up the tank the other day.

This is a duplicate of my 'what did you do to your E9 today', but I have to throw it in here for good measure. A lot of people take trips to the gas station for granted. This was a big excursion for me. :)

28583274931_7814c517eb_b.jpg
 
Stevenhose said:
The stock asymetrical 5 blade fan chops up the air pretty badly, this took me months of headbanging to figure out why #1 barrel would start flooding at 2500 rpm. With trumpets and foam filters (not the ramflow that fit flush to carbs) as well as the smoother flow 9 blade fan solved the issue.

9 Blade Fan - $44 shipped:
image.jpeg


Total Spend: $7,137

After breaking even on the parts car with plenty of parts that still need to sell, The good news is that I calculated that I have $2,000 worth of additional project car parts to sell. Things like dashboard wood, seats, downdraft webers, wheels, 350mm Momo wheel, etc. I plan to get moving on that as I have too much project money wrapped up in stuff I don't need or want.
 
Last edited:
As usual no work is happening. I'm making progress on the parts car though and anxious to get the 2800 back in the garage. I also took my coupe for a spin for a good 20 minutes. I suspect that my alternator isn't charging. My coupe battery is dead (presumably from a short), and the car really ate up my Subaru battery, to the point where the relatively new Subaru has been stumbling. I'm going to drive up to Autozone and have them check the alternator. A local friend has about ten of them so I'm sure I can pick up a used one for $10 or so.

I've eased up on buying parts, although I did just buy the holy grail of not-a-petri-bmw-cs wheels. More on that later perhaps. Still tracking this thread to the penny, but I have a few investment parts that I haven't listed, like the e3 AC parts I posted on Ebay. I've realized that this game of looking for parts is a fun hobby for me. It's the only thing I can do with my limited time, so why not?!!!

One thing that I never liked about published builds in magazines and TV shows is the unrealistic free stuff. However, I've been blessed with quite a bit of free stuff lately. Some I will keep, and some I will sell. The fact is that I quite enjoy buying and selling parts (if you haven't noticed), and others despise it. I know several friends sitting on parts that they need to sell, but lack the time or desire. I will help them out when the time comes. I helped a friend with a coupe related project and he gave me his spare dashboard. He also gave me a mid 70's Blaupunkt Frankfurt.

Spare Dash - This will go on Ebay with my now extra door wood. The dash is clean enough to run without refinishing, but the door wood will need to be redone.

I intend to keep this - Blaupunkt Frankfurt, built in 74/75 (as indicated by the 'F' in the serial) - needs cleaning.
28904319233_2deffa95a6_b.jpg

29526775555_e43298e741_b.jpg


Stubmled upon this:
options.jpg



I intend to auction - Spare Dashboard that I do not need. The driver's side piece is actually in better shape than my donor car. Needs cleaning though...
28904318743_06b7f42f39_b.jpg

29526774205_13ff1d11ff_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Winter will be upon us soon and the home projects will hopefully come to an end!

I'm trying really hard right now to focus on selling extra junk from my project car and wrap up my parts car by December (which seems lofty). I even put some stuff on craigslist - gasp! I don't really need to buy much other than floor pans and service/safety items (fluids, plugs, tires, etc.). I like looking for parts. I'm still fascinated with wheels, both steering and road wheels.

With that said - I picked up this 380mm CSL Alpina Wheel for $364 shipped. It was on Ebay with a buy it now of $350 and 20 people watching (anyone here?). The wheel has been recovered. It is thematically correct but the wheel spoke transitions aren't glued down like the original prototipo. Also the Momo stitching is nearly impossible to replicate, so I have learned. I've had a few long coversations with Chris, the steering wheel guy in TX that Bert recommended. He's willing to take a stab at it.

This wheel recovering used Alpina themed green and blue cross stitching. It looks good, but it's not right. Momo stitching never crosses the seam, and they use a lot of glue. The leather transitions on a prototipo wheel are very thin, and require a special machien to 'scave' the leather properly. In preparation for a future recovering, I have been in contact with Yannic and Srennoc, both of whom have had or have this wheel. Yannick on his late Inka B2S, and Srennoc is going to take a bunch of measurements from the wheel on his CSL. For now, I think I will keep it as-is, but dye the stitching black. Edit: I have dyed the stitching black and the wheel looks a million times better. The wheel is really starting to shape up!

The wheel came with a light coating of paint or dye on the spokes to cover the blemishes where the anodizing was scratched. I used WD-40 (my favorite) and a green scratchy pad to remove it and regain the patina, which I prefer. I don't know if it was shoe dye or what but it smelled like women's perfume.

29409004950_1da0f3bfa2_b.jpg


The back side of the wheel is correct, with the Momo on the back, Made in Italy, and no date stamp. The lack of a date stamp places a Momo wheel in the early to mid 70's, much like my wood 350mm Momo indy. Other 380mm Momo Prototipos of the same era, like the "clay regazzoni" prototipo had the Momo logo on the front.
29664284836_8c9823b22e_b.jpg


There is a small nick right below the letter N. I was talking to Hans (the steering wheel guy) about this wheel. He saw it and passed because the 'N' looked fishy". I feel confident that it is an original Alpina wheel. I'm going to get the logo measurements and offset from Srennoc to confirm. I'm not sure how the scratch got there, if it was a blemish at the factory or if it's just an unfortunately placed nick. The fact that the momo logo is on the backside and it is an original 380mm Prototipo, leaves me to believe that it is undoubtedly genuine. After finding this already rare Momo, someone would need to carefully engrave the Alpina logo in it. Then restore the wheel and sell it for $350. :D

29699790985_98c95b00d3_b.jpg


Closeup...
29619808221_d365e577ef_b.jpg


Here is what the wheel should look like. This beauty sold on Ebay.de for $2,400...
29620400821_05a61c891b_b.jpg


So I can't have this nice Alpina wheel without a vintage Alpina horn button with the correct silver trim ring. I chatted with the infamous ego_bgo via text message and offered him $150 for a shipped Alpina horn button. He gets a lot of flack on this forum for his prices, but I no issues dealing with him. I also know that several members have purchased items from him without issue. I was going to buy his 2002 solid Momo hub with the button, sell the hub, keep the button, etc. A lot of work. A genuine new Alpina button sells for $80 to $100.

I like the Patina - which matches the wheel:
29664282196_ef83776865_b.jpg


29664282096_11e1b746b4_b.jpg


Yannick's old wheel:
bmw%2030%20csl%202211724%20019.jpg

bmw%2030%20csl%202211724%20016.jpg



Total Spend: $7,607
 
Last edited:
Nice going on the horn button, it has the carb vs. the newer ITB. The stitch looks like the interlock stich, not the usual baseball stitch, same as on CSL petri's:

bRyDA9MnEv0hd1uMrrRZIRTkVsMK2w2_TX91HGlMQuoGVO4jooJcynC5kayCzw7bZrL9UPQYz-D5s9SEOQqv7Ay3yPC4cqswi8E6ultteEkLUQv0-CCFPjDrz0GVFxHHxJzDi40FUUeQZPygsogq1yxCNtsaR2weaF8XRqKP-789xS9ELVR9MkA2az6-QMKdTMeacgOkRx12oe_2OVXYXyhEWKUyCp-LA3bydzNA0Cxb9lxWGcBZDUwb4QdYAedfHYxQhUN8nB3CX-DOGeeRyJVbrHwG8omNmKZfWpVQ8emCc2rA1rFXjzrzmFImH864pmfVbDYH9Aoy-NiBFcWI4i7jAHPVkwa08WY7AEd201hpkQhMIZA0k0uBMS0wreb5JcADOIwthh0g6fRY_mj-97EdBGRnrzpwfVxTuuIBwwORUF2c1t1Myrh-tqIGpm6Gk68v9TWFfixXPz3I8TedDIuwNE0u1EkH48R1ZtbFk8feY98CRfQJpbL8N23L6-N29DQp8o6vVvWqQ2aEBl85NrJkQSObzVqjXTrsycd3nOAZP-8vVlC5M8uSLfT66bMNKclSeRI1FV-5sAcHpTTfRldwIdfdmzom-BHXWoEL_28xl-n5=w1028-h771-no
 
Nice going on the horn button, it has the carb vs. the newer ITB. The stitch looks like the interlock stich, not the usual baseball stitch, same as on CSL petri's:

Ahh cool, I didn't notice that they switched from carbs to ITB's. :) The recover stitch is an interlock stitch, alternating green and blue. It looks good, well done. However, the original prototipo does not have an interlocking stitch. I've been told that it interlocks on the underside. After dying the stitch black, I may just hand stitch a decorative white stitch on top for looks.

29592158822_0941f2189e_b.jpg[IMG]
 
One down side to financial tracking my entire spend is that when I sell parts, there is no question about what I paid for them. I'm sure if I ever need to sell my car that will come into play as well. The price one pays to try something different.

I picked up a NOS 3.0CS emblem set and a NOS BMW roundel for $20. I sold the 3.0CS badges for $40 - which in the US is a savings of nearly $30-$40 for the buyer. Win Win! I'm keeping the roundel for myself, but I plan to restore the originals. I'll probably pop this new badge on my project car now so I can say that it is partially restored. :D

29619197091_5b6d17c7ac_b.jpg


29665477546_c17aeaa439_b.jpg


Total Spend: $7,587

Edit: Sold my 350mm Momo and bought more parts for the same price.
 
Last edited:
The past two weeks have been all about wheels, both steering and road wheels. I've had my car for two years. I've purchased three sets of wheels and lost out on a few other sets. Yet my car still sits on old tires. Such is life for someone with no time for real project work but remains obsessed with cool wheels.

I mentioned in my post above that I sold my momo steering wheel and purchased 'parts'. Those parts consist of four WEDS bavaria faces. Now I got a great deal on the faces, but I will likely spend 4x to 8x the purchase price assembling the wheels. That doesn't include any polishing or refinishing. I'm talking about barrels and lips if I go with three piece (not looking too likely), or barrels if I stick with the factory two piece configuration. The WEDS wheels will not match up to 20 hole BBS Motorsport lips. The WEDS faces rest on the inner diameter of the wheel lip. BBS Motorsport lips are ~4.25 mm too big for the face to properly rest on the wheel.

I'm currently looking into two piece Enkei's as a source for barrels. That will keep me in the $400 range for barrels. If I go with three piece, I'm looking at $800 for lips plus who knows what for barrels.

29385786873_34e1ee0afc_b.jpg


Even before buying the WEDS faces I determined that the big BBS style fives weren't what I wanted on the coupe. I really love these wheels, but I bought them because I love the wheels not because I love them on an E9. I think I need to buy an e28!

So I listed my BBS at my original purchase price of $600. I sold the BBS wheels to an e9coupe member at a slight loss. When I sell wheels that cost a seller a significant chunk of change, I like to have them tested. The Alpina set that I sold for $1,100 had a crack in the barrel that I had tig welded. The BBS wheels were all straight except for one that had minor runout. Below are the specs you will see if you have your wheels tested. You can see the before and after. It cost me $65 to straighten the wheel.

29365566933_9cbffce92e_b.jpg


This is the runout for each wheel. All within tolerance. They show up red when outside limit.

Wheel #1
29698369410_a8e7aa8837_b.jpg


Wheel #2
29698369780_ea7b7d77f2_b.jpg


Wheel #3
29909021151_35d34fb5ac_b.jpg


Wheel #4 - Bend Identified
29698370570_b88bbb0916_b.jpg


Wheel #4 - Bend Fixed
29999323545_b9c81bc28c_b.jpg


Total Spend: $7,052

Edit:

  • Momo Horn Ring (subsequently ruined by me attempting to drill Nardi Holes): $8
  • Momo Horn Ring (try again, different brand that includes Nardi Holes): $7
  • Nardi Horn Ring Grommets: $10
  • 31mm Alpina Sticker (more on this later): $8
  • Manual Window Tool: $23
  • Sold Front Door Wood: -$50
  • Sold Two NOS Nardi Hubs: -$150
  • Sold original rear seats: -$200
  • Sold my free dashboard: -$250
  • Bought a Dished Petri: $213
  • Shipping Credit: -$20
  • Sold some wheels:$150
  • Overpaid for rare parts: $1,267
  • Solid Momo Hub: $100
  • Four 16x8 WEDS Bavaria: $550 (hope to net zero with extra Weds faces and Enkies).

Total Spend: $8,415
 
Last edited:
Just for fun, I sourced a $8 31mm Alpina sticker for my the knob that came in my 2800CS. I thought it might go well with my steering wheel. Ultimately, I'll probably stick a proper BMW logo in there but I haven't looked for one yet. I have a solid knob from my CSI that I intend to use with the car anyway.

I talked to a few wheel shops today. I'm looking at $1,500 to create custom barrels and lips for the Weds faces. I'm still looking into using two piece enkei's for donor barrels, in addition to BBS motorsport hardware, which looks to be close but no cigar. I'm meeting up with a local member on Saturday to sell some parts. I'm hoping that he has a motorsport lip that I can measure. The custom wheel shop said that they don't match, but he aslo wants to sell me custom wheels. ;)

Today I accidentally smacked my head *very hard while getting up from under the CSI. I look like I was punched in the face! I caught it on the front lip that the front bumper sits in front of, albeit no bumper.

29865455170_4083854cc9_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mark,

As an idea - you can buy a pretty good pair of BMW cuff links from China on eBay for about $10. They are good quality paint and chrome plated copper. Break the 'stud' off the back of one, use a Forstner bit to drill the proper size hole (I think it is 17 or 19 mm) in the wood, use some construction adhesive on the back of the 'de-studded' cuff link logo, insert the logo and you have a great looking BMW shift knob.
 
Mark,

As an idea - you can buy a pretty good pair of BMW cuff links from China on eBay for about $10. They are good quality paint and chrome plated copper. Break the 'stud' off the back of one, use a Forstner bit to drill the proper size hole (I think it is 17 or 19 mm) in the wood, use some construction adhesive on the back of the 'de-studded' cuff link logo, insert the logo and you have a great looking BMW shift knob.

Nice thanks Gary. I love using stuff for unintended purposes. I do it all the time. Sometimes i walk through home depot looking for anything that has the shape that i need. )

Someone asked me about my Alpina center caps for a large bore e39 wheel. I used plastic cup holder inserts for boats and RV's. The measurements were a match!
 
I've mainly been working on my CSI part out, but I did have time to clean up the vintage Alpina horn button that I purchased.

Recap - This is what it looked like when purchased:
29664282196_ef83776865_b.jpg


The horn button is held in place by three metal tabs that are bent over the plastic horn ring:
30491189225_12dd680f45_b.jpg


Flip up the tabs and the horn button comes apart
30192830290_9104b31f98_b.jpg


Scotch Brite Pad and WD-40:
29858795353_ffc36004f3_b.jpg


The Alpina logo is actually embossed plastic, and not your typical "3D Sticker" that you would find with modern-day logos:
30491190305_842c034943_b.jpg


Back together:
30404226491_da99795ec3_b.jpg


On the wheel:
30404226061_b30652a1a1_b.jpg
 
No love for the project car. I picked up a free wiper motor cover today however. There seems to be some confusion on when these show up. I've read on here that they possibly arrived in '74. This one is from an '82 e24 that a friend is parting out. I also accepted his retractable seat belts front and rear. I'm not quite sure if I will use them yet, but I'd really like to do a Paul Cain style setup for my belts.

31285632621_47debbcd01_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
My '72 2002A & '73 2002A and '73 2002Tii have all had wiper motor covers, yet Athena the '73 Csi built in '72 does not have a cover.
 
My '72/'73 CSI didn't have one. I've seen quite a few show quality CSL's that don't have them, but that may have been an intentional 6oz weight savings.
 
Back
Top