72' Fjord CSI resto

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
Update time!
So, due i wasn't fully satisfied with results of the first flushing block cooling system flushing, i made second flush with phosphoric acid, this time block was soaking for ca. 48hours & after final water flushing, i can tell you that results where really great!
So then:
1. I flatten all cast iron burrs for better cooling fluid flow (water pump mount).
20190910_101705.jpg
20190910_102132.jpg

Flatten all burrs in oil channels
20190910_102248.jpg
20190910_102254.jpg
20190910_104119.jpg
20190910_104123.jpg

2. Cylinders rehoned
20190910_123352.jpg
20190910_125013.jpg

3. Engine block caps replaced
20190911_115032.jpg
20190911_120045.jpg
20190911_123618.jpg
20190911_144909.jpg

Some new engine hardware
20190916_091715.jpg


And then, when i thought that block is fully cleaned, shiny, sharp edges inside & good to go with reassembly i decided to unscrew that big m34 cooling compartment screw, that is on the front wall near timing chain. And what i found there??? - NEXT WALL!!! And that after 48hours of soaking in acid!!!
It's view of first culinder wall.
20190918_120724.jpg

Hammer & flat screwdriver didn't helped a lot, so i used 3Joule pneumatic hammer.
And it wasn't easy even for that machine!
20190918_131229.jpg

After that i pulled out couple bigger peaces of something as below that is hard as rock. I think it was there even the day when car was leaving BMW factory, remains of casting molds.
Second side that is unvisible - was a little bit better, but not too much.
Before this job - i think cooling fluid flow in that part of block for one half of first cylinder was fully closed/blind.
20190918_130940.jpg

Obstructed
20190918_161342.jpg
 
Last edited:

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
New bearing in crankshaft
20191003_165305.jpg

New sprocket
20191003_165317.jpg

Crankshaft was nominal, but i made all needed measurements any way.
Main ca. 60mm (59,95-59,98mm)
Conrod ca. 48mm (47,97-47,99mm)
20191003_165919.jpg
20191003_170734.jpg

New bearings:
20191003_171054.jpg

Main crank plastigauge measurements - all in specs, actual clearance is ca. 0,0017-0,002" (ca. 0,04-0,05mm). Book specs are ca. 0,002-0,003"
20191003_193246.jpg
20191003_193423.jpg

Reassembly:
20191005_093201.jpg

20191004_103947.jpg

And with final torquing - all f.cked up. One of the bolts cracked with 55nm of torque.
20191004_121524.jpg

Luckily i was able to pulled out the cracked part, without any additional damages.
20191004_123428.jpg
 
Last edited:

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
Some lighter work
Windows gears cleaning & regreasing:
20190917_084158.jpg

Finally assembled & tested
20191001_110652.jpg

During zinc plating - they lost one of my heater box flap shafts, so i decided to fabricate 2x stainless instead of regular zinc plated.
20190921_113929.jpg

Reassembled headlights wipers, after re-zinc plating & before painting.
Couple custom made rivets where needed, & all is good now.
20191011_125205.jpg

Made "mirror-effect" powder coating of taillights reflection plates.
20191004_164948.jpg

I liked the idea of Rob @teahead to leave brake calipers in yellow zinc-plated colour, so i just clear powder coat the calipers:
20191008_115711.jpg
20191008_115840.jpg
20191008_120338.jpg

And finally re-assembled them:
20191011_181309.jpg

Some zinc plating
20190926_123452.jpg
 
Last edited:

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
Thanks Steve:)
Yes, patience is critical if you want to make all things proper way, sometimes i am lack of patience & need a little brake to calm down. Usually at this point, i start to make wholy different things to relieve the head.
The main problem with E9 parts, is that first impression about their condition - really doesn't matter. So many times i had parts that looked so well & in the end after blasting or plating they showed up a new not very attractive face; from other side i also had a lot of parts that looked not very promising, but in fact became very good cores.

p.s. when i have internal resistance or just don't want to do something with e9, i always repeat to myself "it won't do itself, it won't do itself" after 5x or more times of repeating, i am usually good to go futher.
 

paul

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
321
Reaction score
305
Location
Australia, Queensland, Gold Coast
Hi Wladek...........I am curious....do you own shares in Zn plating company or do you just love Zn plating as a hobby :D looks great and I agree with your comment
"as i am making ultimate 70's car - why not improve the factory solution" I have taken the same attitude with my car. Actually I painted the air blower cover and the headlight access panels Turkis rather than black . Do you like the rear badge?
 

Attachments

  • 20190918_132756.jpg
    20190918_132756.jpg
    212 KB · Views: 211
  • 20191020_173519.jpg
    20191020_173519.jpg
    227.4 KB · Views: 219
  • 20190930_104547.jpg
    20190930_104547.jpg
    246.3 KB · Views: 231

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
do you own shares in Zn plating company or do you just love Zn plating as a hobby :D
No, i do not own shares, this company owners are bunch of assholes. Every single time i give them new orders - they charge me more & more; in near future Zn plating will cost me more like Gold plating; :)
Every single part that i received with my e9 from previous owner was so ugly, dirt & greasy, i was sort of disgusted because of that, so i decided that after my TLC this parts in their new life with me will be nice & shiny, so i just do my best.
Actually I painted the air blower cover and the headlight access panels Turkis rather than black . Do you like the rear badge?
I love your car, you made wonderful job with it, i wish mine in future was as good as your's.
To be true - not many e9 restorations really impressed me, but yours is wholy different story, body work/paint job work was just amazing.

Due blower under that cover is black, i personally prefer black cover, so was sort of harmony between these two parts, but that doesn't mean, that turkis cover look bad, it also look nice.
Badge is cool - 3.5 under the hood - 3.5 on the boot, all match as it should.;)
 

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
Some powder coating was made this week
20191016_090917.jpg

Reassembled my wipers mechanism
20191016_094714.jpg
20191016_094741.jpg

Couple weeks back piston rings gaps adjusting was made, so was all in specs, all rings where grinded, measure couple times etc. etc.
20190916_143243.jpg

20191019_185712.jpg

This week received package from BMW with new main bearings bolts, washers etc., so was able to continue the work with engine block.
20191017_085704.jpg

Main bearings where tightened (bearings gaps where checked above), so after final troque 60Nm i was able to check side play of cranckshaft - total was ca. 0,05mm (each side ca. 0,025mm)
20191019_163518.jpg

All pistons where fully cleaned, all carbon deposits where removed, also from all gaps & then sligthly manually polished with metal polishing compound, so dirt does not stick to them so well in future.
20191019_185142.jpg
20191019_185226.jpg
20191019_185344.jpg

New piston rings on:
20191020_161226.jpg

Each ring gap was set ca. 120 degree to other, so oil leaks where minimal
20191020_151937.jpg
20191020_152047.jpg
20191020_160410.jpg

Connecting rods torque 55Nm
20191020_163414.jpg

All six conrod bearings gaps where ca. 0,025mm
20191020_153141.jpg

And done - pistons seat right.
20191020_181205.jpg
 

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
Thank you Guys for nice words, i appreciat it;) I wish i was a little bit closer to final work, but it's still long, long way to go.
 

Gazz

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
945
Reaction score
620
Location
Gold Coast Australia
i wish you alot of courage to assemble all this again :D

I hope you have a very good memory and/ or an extensive knowledge of E9s. Mine was totally disassembled when I bought it as a given up on project. It was only this forum, the blue manuals ( useless at times ), and having another E9 as a template that enabled me to get anywhere, as a novice.

I presume some of those plated parts will be painted?
 

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
I hope you have a very good memory and/ or an extensive knowledge of E9s.
As for now i think i remember most things, but will see if i will still remember all this when the car will be back in assembly.
I presume some of those plated parts will be painted?
All parts that where originally black or other colour - will be black or other colour & almost all that where originally bare Zn plated - will be bare Zn plated. I want to go stock colours.
 
Last edited:

tferrer

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
2,151
Reaction score
2,332
Location
San Francisco, CA
Interesting. I have a 72 Fjord CSL with the exact same center console brackets you show there but mine are black.

Edit: Amazing work BTW! Great details

Hi there,
i have a problem with making photo's of my progress with e9, so i decided to create this thread, maybe that way i will be motivated little bit more.
Sorry at the beginning, but my thread might be not continuous & sometimes out of context, i will be just updating here my current progress;
Couple words about my e9 - it is Fjord CSI from October 1972, came from Germany in 2015.
Currently car is completely disassembled (to every single part, almost to the last screw) - no body photo's update yet as i don't want you to watch such a beauty naked :p (body after blasting).

Today received some parts from zinc plating:
1. some white zinc
View attachment 39271
2. some yellow zinc & lonely white zinc oil filter housing
View attachment 39272
Parts with matte colour - where sandblasted; while gloss - brushed with brass brush.
Next stage for most of this parts (not all) will powder coating:)
 
Last edited:

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
Hey Guys,
thanks that you didn't forgot about me;)
yeah, it's been a while since my last post.
This year i am having some tough times with e9, tons o little things that normally noone will ever see, but unfortunately this thing charge my brain very effectively.
Sometimes, because of that i am/was discouraged, but something is happening...

So, to the updates...

Since last post i started with rebuilding my alternators (early 2x 45a & 1x55a) + 1x late 55a i purchased during the work.
All was disassembled, cases where glass beads blasted, all steel parts zinc plated, repainted, new bearings, all electrical parts changed on new ones (copper rings, brushes, diodes etc.) 55a early alt received even new rotor & stator (that aren't seen very often).
After final assembly & testing - all charge.
20200306_093807.jpg
20200306_094717.jpg
20200306_100930.jpg
20200306_131814.jpg
20200306_141044.jpg
20200309_113349.jpg
20200309_113401.jpg
20200314_182322.jpg
20200316_171706.jpg
20200316_172642.jpg
20200316_173435.jpg
20200317_174931.jpg
20200318_143649.jpg
20200318_155115.jpg
20200318_162804.jpg
20200319_182623.jpg
20200414_102414.jpg
20200415_194438.jpg
20200415_194450.jpg
20200416_171214.jpg
 

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
Fully finished the metalwork of the doors

couldn't imagine how side mirrors can't be mounted on aluminium skins without bending them, so decided before final closure to make additional base plates that where later bonded with metal adhesive
20200616_092619.jpg
20200616_092625.jpg
20200616_092634.jpg

Some brushing/sandpapering & degreasing before primering
20200625_084858.jpg
20200625_092134.jpg
20200625_100451.jpg
20200625_175842.jpg

Also before primering - decided to put some converter in gaps where rust later can be shown
20200626_191702.jpg
20200626_191704.jpg
20200626_205740.jpg
20200630_082835.jpg

primered with phosphoric epoxy
20200706_085605.jpg
20200706_090905.jpg
20200706_091709.jpg

Before final bonding STP Aero damping mats - very lightweight, 3mm thick & half of weight of standard damping mat.
20200709_162640.jpg

For bonding i used Teroson EP 5055 - superb product
20200709_191300.jpg

Gaps filled with poliurethane & closed/rubber hammered
20200710_101253.jpg
20200710_103341.jpg
20200710_190102.jpg
20200709_162925.jpg
 

Wladek

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Reaction score
792
Location
Gdansk, POLAND
Before final bonding of course i made door skins positioning with doors frames on the car, so was no later surprises (...probably will be anyway).
20200712_191717.jpg

20200712_191726.jpg

Closed areas where trated with Valvoline Tectyl
20200712_160715.jpg
20200709_170933.jpg


And final result
20200716_202809.jpg
20200716_202837.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top