Could you please share what brand/type of spot welder you are using? It looks to do a very nice job on the sheet metal seams.
Thanks
Drew
'73 3.0CS - M88 Jerez Schwarz build
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Could you please share what brand/type of spot welder you are using? It looks to do a very nice job on the sheet metal seams.
Thanks
Drew
Drew, I'm using an old school ARO type 169, there's an old chap about an hour from me who refurb and sells them on ebay along with varying arms. By far the most useful bit of kit I've used on the e9. I've done around 800 or so up to this point on the car, the longer the arms the poorer the weld quality I've found but some areas necessitate them, no issues with the weld through primer and can go through the heavier zinc paint at a push without compromising weld, the surrounding sheet metal fails long before the weld. Timer is a nice feature too.
This is the same seller and type I'm using, paid around £350 for mine and done about £120 for 2 sets of arms and an electrode shaper.
SPOT WELDER, ARO, VGC, 18 MONTHS WARRANTY | eBay
ARO, ANGLO FRENCH CO. NOW MOVED TO FRANCE. TOTAL RE-MANUFACTURE, WITH SAFETY AND PERFORMANCE UPGRADES. SUPER CONDITION, FITTED WITH STD. LENGTH ARMS. 200 USERS CAN'T BE WRONG. VERY POPULAR SPOT WELDER, VERY LONG LIFE EXPECTANCY.
www.ebay.co.uk
I've got my eye on a used Miller Model 33 spot welder with electronic timer. It is a 2.5KWA unit (230V) that is rated to weld up to 4mm (3/16") of metal. Based on your feedback on your ARO, I was hoping to compare the amperage, but I am not sure it is an accurate comparison. I am pretty excited about doing proper spot welds.
Drew, I'm using an old school ARO type 169, there's an old chap about an hour from me who refurb and sells them on ebay along with varying arms. By far the most useful bit of kit I've used on the e9. I've done around 800 or so up to this point on the car, the longer the arms the poorer the weld quality I've found but some areas necessitate them, no issues with the weld through primer and can go through the heavier zinc paint at a push without compromising weld, the surrounding sheet metal fails long before the weld. Timer is a nice feature too.
This is the same seller and type I'm using, paid around £350 for mine and done about £120 for 2 sets of arms and an electrode shaper.
SPOT WELDER, ARO, VGC, 18 MONTHS WARRANTY | eBay
ARO, ANGLO FRENCH CO. NOW MOVED TO FRANCE. TOTAL RE-MANUFACTURE, WITH SAFETY AND PERFORMANCE UPGRADES. SUPER CONDITION, FITTED WITH STD. LENGTH ARMS. 200 USERS CAN'T BE WRONG. VERY POPULAR SPOT WELDER, VERY LONG LIFE EXPECTANCY.www.ebay.co.uk
Thanks for the info. I could really save time and energy if I didn't have to weld and grind every single MIG weld every single time...always feels like 1 step forward and 2 steps back.
One thing that I'll mention is that I did have to run a seperate 16A 230V plug from my fuse box as a standard UK 13A 230V just wouldn't cut it.
It's a great tool to have.
It's a great tool to have.
Sill assembly in and braces now off! A bit of clean up left before paint but not much left to do here now. Took a while as had to fit/remove the door a bunch and get the pillars all lined up but gaps are equal all round and the same as the other side. I'll finish the spot welds on the rear quarter section tomorrow, also got the front floor welded onto the bulkhead, maybe start repairing the rear floor before moving onto either getting the front wing cut and mounted, or getting the rear arch done.
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A long way away I know, but think I've settled on the colour choice for the coupe. Hated the colour on it although I then learnt that this was very far off the original shade of sienna, although sienna has grown on me a lot I do really like this pyrite brown, individual colour available on a few late model m3s and m4s
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Nothing much to report as I've forgotten to take photos,
Luckily my rear floors were good, only had a small patch on left rear by the sill to weld in, outer arch cut away and at the point where I'm about ready to cut the inner arch and weld in the WN panel plus a few patches where the repair panel doesn't cover it, but painting the floors and inside taking priority. I'll take a break from it for a month or so as things in the house need to be sorted, and need to order another bottle of welding gas... Again!
Luckily my rear floors were good, only had a small patch on left rear by the sill to weld in, outer arch cut away and at the point where I'm about ready to cut the inner arch and weld in the WN panel plus a few patches where the repair panel doesn't cover it, but painting the floors and inside taking priority. I'll take a break from it for a month or so as things in the house need to be sorted, and need to order another bottle of welding gas... Again!
Rear box section fabricated and spot/mig welded together. Yet to trim for the shock absorber mount, although that's next alongside mounting the spring mount. After that it's continuing to repair the inner arch tub and get that all welded back up/painted/seam sealed. Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel now.
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Maybe you mentioned this elsewhere but I couldn't find it. I know you said you'd found no corrosion behind the rear suspension boxes. But why did you remove it (and fabricate a new one)? Was the box section corroded? Thanks for sharing - always great to see your progress.
It was corroded although nowhere near as bad as the other side. Could have patched it up I guess, also I can repair the damper mount at the same time
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The hacking and welding of the inner arch continues. Really sucks that you can't find any repair sections for in here as some tricky compound curves in spots. Nonetheless, a couple of shots when I remembered to take them of pieces getting cut out, bonus shot of the box section in the trunk being rust free, perhaps the only section of the car that was!
Starting a new job this week so progress will probably slow down, but hoping to get this corner finished up for the end of April before dad moves to the passenger wing to mount it on, and I drop the rear beam and start fabricating diff reinforcement and repair panels.
Starting a new job this week so progress will probably slow down, but hoping to get this corner finished up for the end of April before dad moves to the passenger wing to mount it on, and I drop the rear beam and start fabricating diff reinforcement and repair panels.
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Not a crazy amount of work. Fitting on, checking clearances, taking off and repeat. I saw surface rust up above the arch tub so have now ended up cutting the complete arch out, sandblasted and zinc painted inside the best I could. Dad has been finishing up shaping a new inner arch and it's tacked onto the WN repair lip
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Continually impressed with what you are doing with my old car.
Amazing that I sold it on 30 years ago!
35 years now!
Inner arch tub now completely fabricated by Bodgemonkey Sr and the inner arch repair panel welded to it. Now the 10" Compomotives clear beautifully without any rolling of the lips, although will be trimming the outer flush to the inner and rolling the lips to squeeze some bigger rubber in. Some final fettling and then the inner arch can get welded to the body.
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Arch tub formed with a WN repair panel, all welded into place and outer panel welded in. Seems to be a bit tighter than the test fitting and need to pull the arches out a touch before final trimming and rolling. Still hoping I can fit 245s under here once that's all done.
Next step is to get the shock and sprint mount/suspension box back in.
Next step is to get the shock and sprint mount/suspension box back in.
