Ok I need to buy a used D-jet ecu as my car hasn'it anymore. I'm wondering if I can buy a modern ECU and how could it fit on my E9. Anyone has tried a modern replacement on the CSI?
D-Jetronic Rebuild
- Thread starter 12doplumbing
- Start date
Bwana
Well-Known Member
One modern setup that has been done here is Megasquirt
http://megasquirt.info/
Otherwise, you can get a replacement ECU from these guys (on your side of the Atlantic)
http://www.eps-elektronik.com/bmw-c...ne-control-units/0280001007_en.php?0280001007
http://www.eps-elektronik.com/index_en.php
http://megasquirt.info/
Otherwise, you can get a replacement ECU from these guys (on your side of the Atlantic)
http://www.eps-elektronik.com/bmw-c...ne-control-units/0280001007_en.php?0280001007
http://www.eps-elektronik.com/index_en.php
Thank you Bwana!
Bwana
Well-Known Member
OK, I got a couple of shots of my harness connection. I probably won't take it apart until it's hot here (June/August) and then send it in for duplication somewhere.
Overhead shot. Front is to the right. The ornge hose is for the A/C
A shot from frame rail level from back to front perspective. Looks like it's secured by a couple of small screws (probably strip out on removal :sad: )
Sort of a sideways shot from the engine side towards the fender. Definitely looks different than twistinglane's harness
I've never seen a connector like this. I'm wondering how common it is and is it available commercially or is it a BMW supplier item only? Don or anybody else have experience with this connector?
I've decided to remove my FI engine harness so it can be redone. A lot of the connectors are dodgy and the weather boots are nearly gone. So I'm screwing up all my courage to remove the multipin connector on the right frame rail. Has anybody done this? Don/Mario? It's held in by three Phillips head screws. When I remove them, just whiggle some and pull it out? Will anything fall down into the frame rail or is the receiver socket secured independantly?
Tips and Tricks? Anything to watch out for?
(I know, quoting myself, so shoot me :lol: )
Bwana
Well-Known Member
New Harness
So I got my rebuilt harness back from Carl and it looks excellent, as expected. He labeled all the connectors as requested but I'm still a little confused about two of them. One is labeled "starter" but I'm out of spade plugs to plug it into. Is there one that's hiding on my workbench that goes on the big lug from the battery?
Here's what the starter currently looks like. Am I missing something?
I also have this connector, it's one of the rectangular ones with a spade inside. Labeled "exciter", there's nothing to plug it into. It's way far from the alternator so I know it doesn't go there. I had one like this on the old harness and it didn't plug into anything either. Any guess?
I'kk probably call Carl on Monday but I figured I'd sak here over the weekend.
So I got my rebuilt harness back from Carl and it looks excellent, as expected. He labeled all the connectors as requested but I'm still a little confused about two of them. One is labeled "starter" but I'm out of spade plugs to plug it into. Is there one that's hiding on my workbench that goes on the big lug from the battery?
Here's what the starter currently looks like. Am I missing something?
I also have this connector, it's one of the rectangular ones with a spade inside. Labeled "exciter", there's nothing to plug it into. It's way far from the alternator so I know it doesn't go there. I had one like this on the old harness and it didn't plug into anything either. Any guess?
I'kk probably call Carl on Monday but I figured I'd sak here over the weekend.
Bwana
Well-Known Member
More Progress
Got it all installed this week and fired it up last night. I still didn't have anywhere to connect the "exciter" and other red wire as shown above. It ran great but would not shut off when I turned off the key :shock: I had to disconnect the battery to make it stop! I turned it to "run" position without starting it and sure enough, the oil/alt lights came on but everything remained hot after turning the key off and removing it. Had to disconnect the battery again!
So it appears that I'm obviously missing something here. On the back of the "exciter" tab it also says "from key" so I'm assuming there is a signal that goes from the key, thru the ECU, then down to the general vicinity of the starter solenoid. What's getting me though is it all worked fine before with these two wires disconnected but now it won't shut off.
What am I missing? My mission today is to study the wiring diagram and see what's amiss (RTFI!!).
Here's the spare red wire. No other spade connectors in the area
Here's the "from key" connector, same as "exciter" above. It's dangling right behind the starter and doesn't really have much room to move very far.
Can one of you guys with a CSi go look what in the neighborhood of your starter solenoid?
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17999
The green connector in this link is not the same as the "from key" connector in the new harness.
Got it all installed this week and fired it up last night. I still didn't have anywhere to connect the "exciter" and other red wire as shown above. It ran great but would not shut off when I turned off the key :shock: I had to disconnect the battery to make it stop! I turned it to "run" position without starting it and sure enough, the oil/alt lights came on but everything remained hot after turning the key off and removing it. Had to disconnect the battery again!
So it appears that I'm obviously missing something here. On the back of the "exciter" tab it also says "from key" so I'm assuming there is a signal that goes from the key, thru the ECU, then down to the general vicinity of the starter solenoid. What's getting me though is it all worked fine before with these two wires disconnected but now it won't shut off.
What am I missing? My mission today is to study the wiring diagram and see what's amiss (RTFI!!).
Here's the spare red wire. No other spade connectors in the area
Here's the "from key" connector, same as "exciter" above. It's dangling right behind the starter and doesn't really have much room to move very far.
Can one of you guys with a CSi go look what in the neighborhood of your starter solenoid?
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17999
The green connector in this link is not the same as the "from key" connector in the new harness.
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Bwana
Well-Known Member
Another question: I've looked around in the tech section but couldn't find what the big numbers on the wires in this drawing mean. I can figure out the components and the colors but not the numbers on the wires. For instance, there is a big 30 on the wire from the solenoid to the main relay. What's that mean?
Those are terminal numbers, 30 is always power and always red.
And the original wires have numbers on them. (They should match diagram I hope?) Let me know if still looking for a picture tomorrow. I also have a spare original harness i could check things on if useful.
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Excellent! Closing in on it. Stefan, I have identified the wires in your photo. The four in your picture match the wiring diagram. I must not be able to see the spade plug where the red wire plugs in. I'll check again tonight.
But I still don't know what the "from key"/"exciter" wire is in the rectangular plastic connector. You don't seem to have one.
Twistinglane, yes if you can take a picture of the original harness where the plastic rectangular connector is, great! What color is that wire? It should be in a group including the big wire with the ring connector from the battery to the solenoid.
But I still don't know what the "from key"/"exciter" wire is in the rectangular plastic connector. You don't seem to have one.
Twistinglane, yes if you can take a picture of the original harness where the plastic rectangular connector is, great! What color is that wire? It should be in a group including the big wire with the ring connector from the battery to the solenoid.
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Yes please! A picture is worth a thousand words
Here you go!
Hard to get all the connections in one shot, so put them together and
get an idea how it's done.
For some reason I labelled this connection point "12" many years ago. Don't ask me why
Attachments
I've not forgotten about this... But there may well be some differences in harnesses.
Attached are pictures of the main relay plug from my spare harness, along with the circuit diagram detail from a Bosch pamphlet and the underside of the relay.
Wire numbers as shown by Bosch - clockwise from top left of my relay plug picture.
42 to ground (relay term 85)
41 to coil (relay term 86)
30 to Starter
16 to ECU terminal 16
24 to ECU terminal 24 with direct connection to pump relay.
16 and 24 are directly connected together at the relay.
Attached are pictures of the main relay plug from my spare harness, along with the circuit diagram detail from a Bosch pamphlet and the underside of the relay.
Wire numbers as shown by Bosch - clockwise from top left of my relay plug picture.
42 to ground (relay term 85)
41 to coil (relay term 86)
30 to Starter
16 to ECU terminal 16
24 to ECU terminal 24 with direct connection to pump relay.
16 and 24 are directly connected together at the relay.
Attachments
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Great! Thanks for the assistance guys! I got called to work so it will be a little while before I get back to this but stay tuned!!
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Back on the case. Looks like I may have to take it into somebody that knows what they are looking at. I've traced down the four wires that go to the starter and they seem to be correct but I still have two wires that go nowhere and the engine, while starting and running fine, doesn't shut off when the key is turned to "off" and removed. I have to disconnect the battery.......sigh.....
Anyway, help me identify two plugs. I've seen both refered to as the other in different "official" documents.
This should be the aux. air valve connection, correct? (brown connector above the black rubber hose, the air filter for the aux is to the lower right)
Hopefully this is the water temperature sensor, not the aux air valve connector, correct? (The connector has a broken wall, you can see the plug prongs. It's at the bottom of this whole assembly.)
I guess the alternative question would be: What wiring mistake could be made to keep the engine running after the key is shut off and removed?
Anyway, help me identify two plugs. I've seen both refered to as the other in different "official" documents.
This should be the aux. air valve connection, correct? (brown connector above the black rubber hose, the air filter for the aux is to the lower right)
Hopefully this is the water temperature sensor, not the aux air valve connector, correct? (The connector has a broken wall, you can see the plug prongs. It's at the bottom of this whole assembly.)
I guess the alternative question would be: What wiring mistake could be made to keep the engine running after the key is shut off and removed?
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d-jet
the first is your water temp switch that is connected to d-jet computer... it will effect lean/rich run condition... the second is the thermo time switch that triggers your cold start relay & injector.... sounds like you have a bad ignition switch or your ignition switch green wire is connected to the wrong post at the fuse box leaving it hot all the time... check there first...are your dash lights lit with the key off? your main relay at the booster snout could also be stuck on engaging the fuel/ignition circuit all the time.... it is a failure item
T
the first is your water temp switch that is connected to d-jet computer... it will effect lean/rich run condition... the second is the thermo time switch that triggers your cold start relay & injector.... sounds like you have a bad ignition switch or your ignition switch green wire is connected to the wrong post at the fuse box leaving it hot all the time... check there first...are your dash lights lit with the key off? your main relay at the booster snout could also be stuck on engaging the fuel/ignition circuit all the time.... it is a failure item
T
Bwana,
I had a very similar problem after I installed my MS on the Bav. For my car it turned out to be the main relay getting power through the alternator warning light. The solution was to install a diode in the wire so that the current could not back flow. I have included a link to a similar discussion on the Megasquirt Support Forum. Can't image why this would be happening to you now just because your harness was rebuilt but it may be worth a try.
Drew
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=40167
I had a very similar problem after I installed my MS on the Bav. For my car it turned out to be the main relay getting power through the alternator warning light. The solution was to install a diode in the wire so that the current could not back flow. I have included a link to a similar discussion on the Megasquirt Support Forum. Can't image why this would be happening to you now just because your harness was rebuilt but it may be worth a try.
Drew
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=40167
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Bwana
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, good info here!
I removed the harness and sent it to La Jolla in one piece with the relays attached. Carl says they're NLA. Nothing else was touched other than the harness, i.e., no switches or fuses under the dash or elsewhere in the engine compartment.
I have one red wire back from repair marked "starter" so I assume it's the red wire that goes to the mysterious solenoid terminal 50 (item #17) on the wiring diagram. Trouble is, I don't have any more spade connectors on the starter or solenoid to attach it to. There's another female spade connection hanging down there too marked "from key", looks to be black in color. There is a black wire on the wiring diagram that goes from the key switch to item #17 (terminal50). There is continuity between the red and black spade connectors so I assume item #17 "plug connection terminal 50" is back up in the harness somewhere, like I've seen on Jaguars of the same era. So I can plug in either the black (male) or red (female) spade plug to terminal 50 and it should work. But where is terminal 50?
The starter solenoid has a black wire (spade connection) that confirms to ground, a red/black wire (spade connection) that confirms to the coil, a red wire that has a hoop on it that goes on the same big post as the big + wire from the battery. I don't seem to have another connection, i.e., connection 50, spade or otherwise, on the solenoid for the wire from the key.
16=black/red to coil
30=red to main relay and battery
50=??? Where is it?
no number=ground wire opposite position to the black/red wire
Good idea about the relay not dropping out. When I turn the key to "start", the oil and alternator idiot lights come on and stay on after I turn the key off. But they go out when I disconnect the battery and stay out when I re-connect it so I sounds like a stuck relay. Is there a way to check it?
Which is the main relay? Is it the front one of the two under the booster box? I tapped both pretty strongly with a screw driver but the lights stayed on.
This is frustrating. The green wire you mention is the one from the key to the pre-resistor and is hot in the "on" position. I think what I'm looking for is a red wire from the "start" position from item #17 on the wiring diagram a.k.a., the "plug connection terminal 50". Which is the same as the #50 on the solenoid. But it's not there (or am I missing something?).
I removed the harness and sent it to La Jolla in one piece with the relays attached. Carl says they're NLA. Nothing else was touched other than the harness, i.e., no switches or fuses under the dash or elsewhere in the engine compartment.
I have one red wire back from repair marked "starter" so I assume it's the red wire that goes to the mysterious solenoid terminal 50 (item #17) on the wiring diagram. Trouble is, I don't have any more spade connectors on the starter or solenoid to attach it to. There's another female spade connection hanging down there too marked "from key", looks to be black in color. There is a black wire on the wiring diagram that goes from the key switch to item #17 (terminal50). There is continuity between the red and black spade connectors so I assume item #17 "plug connection terminal 50" is back up in the harness somewhere, like I've seen on Jaguars of the same era. So I can plug in either the black (male) or red (female) spade plug to terminal 50 and it should work. But where is terminal 50?
The starter solenoid has a black wire (spade connection) that confirms to ground, a red/black wire (spade connection) that confirms to the coil, a red wire that has a hoop on it that goes on the same big post as the big + wire from the battery. I don't seem to have another connection, i.e., connection 50, spade or otherwise, on the solenoid for the wire from the key.
16=black/red to coil
30=red to main relay and battery
50=??? Where is it?
no number=ground wire opposite position to the black/red wire
Good idea about the relay not dropping out. When I turn the key to "start", the oil and alternator idiot lights come on and stay on after I turn the key off. But they go out when I disconnect the battery and stay out when I re-connect it so I sounds like a stuck relay. Is there a way to check it?
Which is the main relay? Is it the front one of the two under the booster box? I tapped both pretty strongly with a screw driver but the lights stayed on.
This is frustrating. The green wire you mention is the one from the key to the pre-resistor and is hot in the "on" position. I think what I'm looking for is a red wire from the "start" position from item #17 on the wiring diagram a.k.a., the "plug connection terminal 50". Which is the same as the #50 on the solenoid. But it's not there (or am I missing something?).