Fixing that little rust spot...

[eriknetherlands]

Schrick 284 cam costs 600 euro, vs a std one at 300, so that's not killing my budget.

The fact that my block needs boring, new custom pistons does hit hard, qoute is 7K for the rebuild.

 

[Breiti]

Don't be cheap at the final.....

Breiti

 

[eriknetherlands]

Don't be cheap at the final.....

Breiti

fair point which i share: a strong and smooth motor makes for more then half of the driving experience. I'm wondering about the following: It is about cost neutral to start with a 3,5 L block and get custom pistons for that block (compared to overboring my current 3.0 block and custom pistons for that block). So that would point me to 'why not go for more volume". But i think I can't just install my carbs back on; can they even work on a 3,5 L block?

 

[Breiti]

.....So that would point me to 'why not go for more volume". But i think I can't just install my carbs back on; can they even work on a 3,5 L block?

That could only answer the power testing station afterwords....

Or a installed lambda gauge.

Breiti

 

[m_thompson]

And, funny enough, when removing the valve cover, we noticed that copious amounts of RTV were used on the front half circle where the top chain cover sits.
Turns out that that small cover, with the distribution opening, was about 1 mm to low to seal with the valve cover.
I'm in need of a new one. Anyone? I think they need to be skimmed together with the head, is it not?

The previous owner of my 3.0CS did not skim that part when they skimmed the head. When it was assembled it bent the alignment pins. When they tried to start the engine it broke the front of the camshaft off.

 

[bavbob]

As I read these posts, I began to laugh out loud cause I looked at the title of the orignial post!

 

[eriknetherlands]

yup; it's been 10 years no driving.... it hurts.

for all who's out there: Don't scratch that rust spot.
Buy this car instead and drive tomorrow:

Thread 'CSi Still for Sale'

Nov 2, 2025

I listed this CSi on BaT in July and no bidders showed up. He would still like to sell and the price he will consider it is a steal in my mind. If you know of anyone who might be interested please have them contact me, I will not post the price here. I was very impressed with the quality of the restoration, the work done to it by sfdon and the way it drove.

Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi

Bid for the chance to own a Euro 1972 BMW 3.0CSi at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #201,273.

bringatrailer.com

• HB Chris
• Replies: 22
• Forum: Cars For Sale and Wanted

• 
• 

 

[Fritzie]

W&N panel fitment issues...

-continued-

Pic 233452 with floor panel temporarily in place, located with the 2 M8 bolts from the rear subframe. Then, to my surprise i noticed that the curves (close to my thumb) don't line up.
The curve in the tunnel (green line) next to the centre bearing support is about 10 mm 'lower' in this picture compared to the matching fold (red line) on the floor panel. Red and green lines should line up.
Pic 221302 Shows the fitment at the front of the panel; a massive mismatch with the end of the frame rails.

This seemed to indicate that the thrust rod had moved in rearward direction causing the floor panel to be 10 mm to far rearward.
...with my entire subframe....
Now how did that happen?
A lot went through my mind... did the body really twist, eventhough I built half a roll cage?
So, pull out the tape measure and start checking things...
I figured out after a while what the rootcause was:
If you compare the measurements of the original and the replacement panel,
then you'll notice that they are ~10 mm different.
pic 00845 with both panels side by side
pic 001049 & 001107 showing the measurement and the W&N panel at 35,5 cm
Pic 001220 showing the same measurement at 36,5 cm.

Glad I found out that the W&N part is way off.
At least it means that I wasn't hacking to coupe into pieces and making a mess of it.

I am actually quite surprised by this. My car looks original there. No previous owner weldmarks.
The W&N dimensions are not just 1 or 2 mm's off, its in the order of 10mm. That's not what I expect of German quality.
Is perhaps the body of the 2000CS and the E9 diferent; 10 mm longer, in this specific area?
Were these panels also streched by the BMW engineers when they Barba Pappa-ed the 2000CS into the E9? (like the sills?)
and did W&N choose to tool one panel with dimension that 'fit' both 2000cs and E9?
Am I missing something? Anyway it makes me wonder how the other panels of W&N will turn out.
Keep Calm and weld on!
Then a choice was made: I went for a correct M8 Bolt hole positions, as those nuts more or less locate the rear subframe.
As driving thrills should be THE feature of the car, I thought it would be good if at least the rear axle is somewhat aligned under the car.
I choose a somewhat goofy visual mismatch with the front frame rails as the best option.

Later I thought that I might have better just relocated the M8 Bolt holes. Cut the nuts out, weld the 2 holes shut, and relocate them to a place i could accept; 10 mm further backward.
A thing that helped me a lot during this puzzle was one lucky choice; i marked the relative position of the 2 M8 nuts of the original panel while still in the car with a steel 90 degree angle square on the inner sill. (pic 233309-01, at the intersection of the orange lines)
This gave me the possibility to identify exactly where the bolt holes needed to be.

Hello Erik,
Facing the same problem fitting in a new repair panel. Also 10 to 15 mm to short. Also the same gap at frame to leave or shall I relocate the m8 nuts? Or maybe I am going to extend the panel by welding 15 mm sheet metal in between. I think I will tig weld the 15 mm in between.
Thanks for your great write up. It helps!

 

[ScottAndrews]

I'd definitely go for a native 3.5 liter engine than try to bore out a 3.0. Not sure what displacement you can get from boring, but I'd suspect it's not 0.5 liters, and who knows what else might need to change? Sounds like a black hole.

I was able to source a used M90 motor from a wrecked Euro in Colorado. Got it for slightly more than three Shrick cams.. If you are interested, maybe we can ship it to the Netherlands. I don't really need it since I bought one from Don. IIRC it is missing the L-Jet components (since I am using triple Webers), so you could either dive into the dark side (carbs), or source the L-Jet hardware (I have an intake, but no AFM, throttle body or ECU.

No idea what shipping from the US to EU would cost

Surely there are a bunch of rusted out or wrecked 6 series cars over there...

 

[Breiti]

Hmmmm, there are much more possibility for "3 or 4 Schrick cams"
A friend is just rebuilding a 745 turbo for his e9


I still love the original.

Breiti

 

[eriknetherlands]

Hello Erik,
Facing the same problem fitting in a new repair panel. Also 10 to 15 mm to short. Also the same gap at frame to leave or shall I relocate the m8 nuts? Or maybe I am going to extend the panel by welding 15 mm sheet metal in between. I think I will tig weld the 15 mm in between.
Thanks for your great write up. It helps!

Hi! I'd advise you to relocate the 2 m8 nuts. That way the floor matches nicely to the frame rail ends.

I should have done thesame.

 

[eriknetherlands]

I'd definitely go for a native 3.5 liter engine than try to bore out a 3.0. Not sure what displacement you can get from boring, but I'd suspect it's not 0.5 liters, and who knows what else might need to change? Sounds like a black hole.

I was able to source a used M90 motor from a wrecked Euro in Colorado. Got it for slightly more than three Shrick cams.. If you are interested, maybe we can ship it to the Netherlands. I don't really need it since I bought one from Don. IIRC it is missing the L-Jet components (since I am using triple Webers), so you could either dive into the dark side (carbs), or source the L-Jet hardware (I have an intake, but no AFM, throttle body or ECU.

No idea what shipping from the US to EU would cost

Surely there are a bunch of rusted out or wrecked 6 series cars over there...

Thanks for thinking along.

In the meantime i have purchased an M90 from a member here, and pi ked it up at wordl famous e9 restorer Miklos in Hungary.
It made for a nice 2600km roadtrip with my wife,vstaying 2 nights in Vienna as well.
And seeing the "factory" that Miklos runs restroring e9's is amazing.
He's got about 20 e9's in various state of dispair, up to as new showroom concourse state CSL's.

What I saw was a lot of good work, with massive attention to detail.

I enjoyed seeing an US body, with all original panels and spotwelds. Best e9 body i've ever seen. Still it did not have zero rust, some on the right top door edge.

 

[eriknetherlands]

Here's the block ready to go to the engine builder.
Stripped from it's anciliaries, easier to handle.
Perished rubbers, cables with isolation falling off, injector fuel hoses that crumble: it needs some love.

Now i need to figure out which setup is ideal; i'm after original csi looks, so would that be l-jet I presume ?

I have a hard time identifying the parts i have, so i'll likely bug you all with some noob questions here.

 

[ScottAndrews]

Yes, that engine runs great with L-Jet. Based on your photos, you will need the ECU, injectors, the intake runners (many folks use larger 320i runners, but the stock ones work fine), the plenum, CSV, throttle body, AFM, air cleaner, thermostat housing and its associated sensors, and a water pump.

I see yours has the oil filter with hoses for the cooler. Did you get the cooler too? If not, I'd look for one. it sits low under the radiator (my 635 has a vented spoiler that covers that up. I'm using a similar 635 euro style spoiler on my E9). Keeps the mighty M90 happy...

You can generally locate all of the connectors and boots and things online, especially those injector connectors and boots.

I have attached a summary of the AFMs and ECUs used on different 6 series cars, so you can locate the right one (these were compiled by an EFI guru on Roadfly (Bill Wolf) back in the early 2000's). I have several AFMs in a box. Not sure if any of them are the right ones, but you are welcome to any of them.

Not sure what resources you have available there, but here is a company here that rebuilds AFMs and injectors: https://fuelinjectioncorp.com/about-fic/

You can also run a Megasquirt system, but that will be clearly non-stock.

If you are not familiar with L-Jet I'd find a copy of this book: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Fuel-Injection-Engine-Management/dp/0837603005

 

[ScottAndrews]

Hmmmm, there are much more possibility for "3 or 4 Schrick cams"
A friend is just rebuilding a 745 turbo for his e9


I still love the original.

Breiti

See?! We have created a new currency! Schrick cams!

I am keeping my numbers matching original 3.0 motor for some future owner. I plan to clean it up sometime and set it aside.

 

[Dlc]

Thanks for thinking along.

In the meantime i have purchased an M90 from a member here, and pi ked it up at wordl famous e9 restorer Miklos in Hungary.
It made for a nice 2600km roadtrip with my wife,vstaying 2 nights in Vienna as well.
And seeing the "factory" that Miklos runs restroring e9's is amazing.
He's got about 20 e9's in various state of dispair, up to as new showroom concourse state CSL's.

What I saw was a lot of good work, with massive attention to detail.

I enjoyed seeing an US body, with all original panels and spotwelds. Best e9 body i've ever seen. Still it did not have zero rust, some on the right top door edge.

Erik - next time you come to Vienna let me know and we can meet up!

 

[eriknetherlands]

Erik - next time you come to Vienna let me know and we can meet up!

Will do! I hope to bring my shell to Miklos for painting in a year.
Vienna is a great place to stop for a break. So much to see and a nice halfway stop.

 

[eriknetherlands]

Yes, that engine runs great with L-Jet. Based on your photos, you will need the ECU, injectors, the intake runners (many folks use larger 320i runners, but the stock ones work fine), the plenum, CSV, throttle body, AFM, air cleaner, thermostat housing and its associated sensors, and a water pump.

I see yours has the oil filter with hoses for the cooler. Did you get the cooler too? If not, I'd look for one. it sits low under the radiator (my 635 has a vented spoiler that covers that up. I'm using a similar 635 euro style spoiler on my E9). Keeps the mighty M90 happy...

You can generally locate all of the connectors and boots and things online, especially those injector connectors and boots.

I have attached a summary of the AFMs and ECUs used on different 6 series cars, so you can locate the right one (these were compiled by an EFI guru on Roadfly (Bill Wolf) back in the early 2000's). I have several AFMs in a box. Not sure if any of them are the right ones, but you are welcome to any of them.

Not sure what resources you have available there, but here is a company here that rebuilds AFMs and injectors: https://fuelinjectioncorp.com/about-fic/

You can also run a Megasquirt system, but that will be clearly non-stock.

If you are not familiar with L-Jet I'd find a copy of this book: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Fuel-Injection-Engine-Management/dp/0837603005

Thanks Scott for your info, really, really helpfull.

I did get the cooler, though the hoses have a serious gouge in them. Is it essential to keep the cooler? What's the benefit of it? As i do not see a valve to open and close that extra loop to the cooler, does it mean that it will also take longer to warm up the engine?

Would selecting the right AFM be done by using the ecu as a starting point? I did get an ecu with it, so i'll have a look and possibly reach out.

I also have the plenum and intake runners, but as you mentioned a set of 320i's would be desirable. Also the aircleaner, it's firewall bracket and are on my which list.
I'll post a wtb for it.

Thermostat was also present, but a bit stuborn upon disassembly. Snapped two bolts, then decided to use a blow torch for the remaining 2 bolts. The broken ones also came out easy with a 30 second heating of the 10mm studlength sticking out making it easy to stick a vice grip on them.

I'll dive into megasquirt and try and understand it's benefits. I'm thinking it's a more US based solution, and there would be other systems that do basically the same like "123 ignition"?
May be easier when it comes to purchase and support to source locally.

Ordered the book also - great tip!
Thanks again for all help!

 

[Rudy3.0CS]

A 123 is a distributor; not an ECU. You will still need an ECU.

 

[Clubsport_CSi]

Erik, for the Megasquirt: There are pre-built units available also in Europe - I suggest you have look at the KdFi solution from K-Data:
K-Data
It would be PnP for the M30B35 (only M50 throttle potentiometer to be added) but was also successfully adopted to other M30 derivates etc.