The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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Sent this to Benny just now. Any bets on additional costs?

Hi Gary and Benny,

Just wanted to check in on the schedule this week. I will be traveling on Friday through part of next week fyi.

I plan to stop by on Thursday to film painting, if you plan to be doing so by then, or earlier, let me know.

I ordered all the items you asked me to order, except the headlights, which I am ordering today. Otherwise, everything is on order and should be arriving this week, but wheels will be there in a couple/three weeks.

I am most concerned about finding someone to help repair/restore the wood, but need it out to do anything. Please let me know our local options as things stand now, I only have one person in Europe that can do this and it will take about 3-4 weeks and cost $$$ especially with shipping too, so preference is to get this done here. If not, please let me know your thoughts and when the wood will be removed.

Benny, can you please let me know if there are any increased costs since you last informed me that total will be closer to $16k and if you need a further progress payment. I don't believe much has changed since that quote other than some additional work on the rolling edges of wheel rims and misc stuff like cleaning and coating gas tank. BTW, do you think we should apply a clear bra on the front air dam?

Thanks so very much for all your help on this project. You both have many online fans! If you want to do more Coupes, I imagine you will have clients.

Let me know.
 
I’ll second the point that a GOOD cabinet maker or auto interior restorer should have no problems redoing the wood to oem quality. The veneers are widely available, repairing curves substrates is basic, and the types of adhesives and finishes demanded for automotive applications are also commonly available. The main consideration is whether or not a shop knows what the oem look should be. If your wood is only slightly bad, there should be plenty left to serve as an example for any repair work.
 
Just talked to Benny.
In sum:
  • When Painting Begins?

    • Priming process begins this week, mud work, etc.

    • Paint another week or so
  • Projected completion date?

    • unknown but will let us know
  • Wood- Hi Scott. After speaking with every wood worker in the wood River Valley this afternoon, we are at the point where you need to deal directly with the owner of Wood River veneers. . His name is Russ Bork.

  • Any additional costs? He will let me know but not much he thinks.

  • When to visit again? Will be there on Thursday for more video, and he will take in meantime too

  • clear coat bra to be applied only after paint completely cured in several months
ordering lights
 
Just bought:

2 x KDSL14 Koito H4 High/Low Headlamp @ 79.000 $ 158.00
2 x KDSL16 Koito H1 Hi-Beam Headlamp @ 79.000 $ 158.00
2 x Tungsram 60/55w H4 +120 bulb @ 21.590 $ 43.18
2 x Osram 55w H1 +110 bulb @ 17.590 $ 35.18


Merch total: $ 394.36

Ship $ 38.03
Box count: 2 (two)

Total pd CC 2756 $ 432.39
 
scottevest said:
  • Lightweight polycarbonate clear headlight lenses replace the original glass items.

Thoughts?
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I can't stand plastic headlight lenses and polycarbonate probably isn't much better. I went to the trouble of swapping out the headlights on my 940 Volvo with glass units from a 760 I was parting out. Plastic gets sandblasted more easily, turned frosted and yellow by the sun and isn't as strong if there's a rock impact.

Sure, it's lighter, helping your mileage figures and I'm sure it's cheaper and allows more freedom in designing cool looking new headlights for the styling flavor du jour.

But none of those reasons are why I bought my E9. I want glass lenses and H1/H4 bulbs so I bought a set off of eBay. They're an off brand so I'll have to critically judge their performance to see if they'll stay, but they are new, good looking (flat lenses) and they'll do around town as I'm unlikely to drive much at night. If they stink, they weren't expensive so I'll buy some Hellas without any regrets. Getting the car back on the road with new paint takes precedence. Fine tuning headlights can come later.

Ian
 
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Today’s video update

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Scott,

Nice update! Your bumpers look great. I assume that they are just throwing some primer on to avoid surface rust as they clearly stated that more work needs to be done. What what is the plan on the euro bumper conversion? The front bumper and rear mounts looks quite a bit different on a US 1974 with bumpers compared to that of previous years. Given the visible grinding and cleaning up front it looks like they intend to address the holes. The same goes for the big holes int he back. The holes will be especially visible up front if you go sans bumper.

BMW-3.0-CSL-Batmobile-15.jpg


P6171118.jpg
 
I believe the intent to do the bumpers properly but I am not sure if they understand all the nuances so please educate me so that I can let them know. In terms of primer etc. I also assume they know their business when I comes to painting or at least I hope so. There is some thought to not putting on the front bumper but covering the holes properly and perhaps putting it on at a later date. I think he looks so much better without it. Don’t you?
 
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Scott,

One thing I would inspect before they get too far along (hopefully not too late already) is to make sure the body line that is about half way up the side and runs from wheel well to wheel well is still there and they have not bondo'd or grinded it out. This is one of the most important character lines on the car and I can't tell you how it bothers me when I see coupes with it missing. Coupes without this line look like they have had shoddy body work, even if they have shiny paint. In the picture and video you posted above, the line does not appear to be there on either side; that may be just because of the paint has been taken down and the lighting, but you should check now before they put paint to it. That line is distinctive and sharp; you should be able to see and feel it with your hand.

-Walter
 
WALTER said:
Scott,

One thing I would inspect before they get too far along (hopefully not too late already) is to make sure the body line that is about half way up the side and runs from wheel well to wheel well is still there and they have not bondo'd or grinded it out. This is one of the most important character lines on the car and I can't tell you how it bothers me when I see coupes with it missing. Coupes without this line look like they have had shoddy body work, even if they have shiny paint. In the picture and video you posted above, the line does not appear to be there on either side; that may be just because of the paint has been taken down and the lighting, but you should check now before they put paint to it. That line is distinctive and sharp; you should be able to see and feel it with your hand.

-Walter
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Good remark Walter ! i once knew a body shop and that was the first thing they looked at with E9's .... if it was still there.
Don't think you can "grind" it away but with bondo.... :rolleyes:
 
Scott,

I will snap some photos of the front bumper slot measurements this weekend. Once posted, perhaps someone else can provide verification.
 
teahead said:
Don't fill up the front bumper holes. You NEVER know that one day you may need to sell the car and I think 90% of E9 prospective buyers prefer a front bumper (I know I do).
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For the record, my recommendation is to fill the US 1974 portion of the bumper holes and reproduce the narrow bumper slot that we are all used to. If you look at Scott's front end, there big holes for the 1974 bumper shocks.
 
teahead said:
Don't fill up the front bumper holes. You NEVER know that one day you may need to sell the car and I think 90% of E9 prospective buyers prefer a front bumper (I know I do).
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I can tell you unequivocally as between bumper or no bumper I personally prefer no bumper but not by a large margin. I intend to hold the car for the rest of my life so I should do something that appeals most to me I suspect. It’s not finally determined. I suppose that even if I take the bumper off and cover the holes that at a later date for some money we could revert back
 
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